Hi, A question. I had actually used 170R instead of the recommended 150R as I did not have them available. They were normal 5% tolerance carbon comp resistors. Should I bother changing? My reasoning was that being part of LPF that might change the frequency cut off a bit but not too much.
A quick question.
I have ordered a 4393 kit, which I am going to upgrade.
However I see that the 4396 is a better beast.
The question I have is this, is it possible to replace the 4393 with a 4396 chip.
I assume the LPF resistors would need to be changed.
Is there anything else which would need to be changed to accommodate a 4396 chip?
Also is ebay the best source for a 4396 chip?
Many thanks.
I have ordered a 4393 kit, which I am going to upgrade.
However I see that the 4396 is a better beast.
The question I have is this, is it possible to replace the 4393 with a 4396 chip.
I assume the LPF resistors would need to be changed.
Is there anything else which would need to be changed to accommodate a 4396 chip?
Also is ebay the best source for a 4396 chip?
Many thanks.
Yes. Direct replacement.
As you said, install the AK4396 datasheet LPF values.
Yes
160 Ohm Riken alternative
The Riken 160 Ohm seems impossible to source but has anyone tried the Shinkoh 150 Ohm tantalum resistors on the input to the opamp?
In my 4396 kit all the resistors on the output is 1K Ohm and not 2.4K Ohm, but according to Darios Upgrade BOM I am putting in 2.4K Ohm PRP 1/4 Watt, that I found availiable at Hificollective.
PS? I am going to use the OPA827 on the Blackdog adapter as opamp
With kind regards and hello to you all
Martin
The Riken 160 Ohm seems impossible to source but has anyone tried the Shinkoh 150 Ohm tantalum resistors on the input to the opamp?
In my 4396 kit all the resistors on the output is 1K Ohm and not 2.4K Ohm, but according to Darios Upgrade BOM I am putting in 2.4K Ohm PRP 1/4 Watt, that I found availiable at Hificollective.
PS? I am going to use the OPA827 on the Blackdog adapter as opamp
With kind regards and hello to you all
Martin
The Riken 160 Ohm seems impossible to source but has anyone tried the Shinkoh 150 Ohm tantalum resistors on the input to the opamp?
Hi Martin,
Use a plain carbon film then , IMHO the Shinkoh is too much colored.
It's normal all kits are shipped with LPF parts for AK4393
Perfect.
I thought I should give a heads up to AudJade (Ma Lee) - I bought some Silmic11s and a dual-to-mono OPA627(s/hand op-amps) module from him.
They arrived today, superbly packed, the op-amp module in anti-static packaging and acccompanied by something I have never seen before - two rubber fingers (imagine miniature condoms) to handle them with - what a brilliant idea. I actually use very thin white cotton gloves, cheap as chips when bought in Spain, where I used to live.
Also included was an invoice in correct English (how many non Chinese can write in Mandarin or any other Chinese dialect?
The soldering of the op-amp module is excellant - and yes the pricing is as well - what more can you want. I buy very little in Europe because the attitude is - 'how much can I screw you for'. I also buy in the USA because Americans demand 'bang for the buck' but many sellers there screw you on postage - they don't get my business.
Caveat Emptor - but not in this case - chapeaux AudeJade.
They arrived today, superbly packed, the op-amp module in anti-static packaging and acccompanied by something I have never seen before - two rubber fingers (imagine miniature condoms) to handle them with - what a brilliant idea. I actually use very thin white cotton gloves, cheap as chips when bought in Spain, where I used to live.
Also included was an invoice in correct English (how many non Chinese can write in Mandarin or any other Chinese dialect?
The soldering of the op-amp module is excellant - and yes the pricing is as well - what more can you want. I buy very little in Europe because the attitude is - 'how much can I screw you for'. I also buy in the USA because Americans demand 'bang for the buck' but many sellers there screw you on postage - they don't get my business.
Caveat Emptor - but not in this case - chapeaux AudeJade.
Well, I don't know if you have heard the sound of a genuine OPA627 before?
I bought some of the dual to mono OPA627 from Audjade in May 2011.
To my ears, they don't sound anything like an OPA627! I don't believe them to be the genuine article. On the off chance they genuine, I believe them to be static, or thermally damaged to the point where they sound nothing like they should.
My recommendation would be to stay away from op-amps from that seller.
Of course your experience might be different, my gripe is not with you, but the seller Audjade.
I bought some of the dual to mono OPA627 from Audjade in May 2011.
To my ears, they don't sound anything like an OPA627! I don't believe them to be the genuine article. On the off chance they genuine, I believe them to be static, or thermally damaged to the point where they sound nothing like they should.
My recommendation would be to stay away from op-amps from that seller.
Of course your experience might be different, my gripe is not with you, but the seller Audjade.
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Hi Erin,
AudeJade states cleary that these modules use s/hand op-amps so your comments about thermal damage are probably right. For the price it's worth a punt especially as this DAC uses a voltage out chip and using the op-amp is my second choice. The caps I bought from him measure fine - he certainly packs his stuff very well.
I saw something interesting about Schottys but they are type that is no good for the DAC as they are 600V and TO-220. So I shall make Schotty bridges from the axial type.
AudeJade states cleary that these modules use s/hand op-amps so your comments about thermal damage are probably right. For the price it's worth a punt especially as this DAC uses a voltage out chip and using the op-amp is my second choice. The caps I bought from him measure fine - he certainly packs his stuff very well.
I saw something interesting about Schottys but they are type that is no good for the DAC as they are 600V and TO-220. So I shall make Schotty bridges from the axial type.
On the board near the 1N4148 diode, next to C28 (Nichicon LF 10uF 16V) there is originaly an 1uF 50V capacitor, but I can not find anything in the BOM of an supstitute?
On the populated picture on the google drive, there is a cap there but I can not find anything about it?
With regards
Martin
On the populated picture on the google drive, there is a cap there but I can not find anything about it?
With regards
Martin
I've bought caps from him before and they were fine.
Just personally can't recommend the op amps. There is a saying, if its too good to be true - it probably is. I think these op amps are an example of this.
I bought the dac with some pieces on it.
PCB SMD IC New Hi End DAC 24 Bit 192K Hz AK4393 SC | eBay
I want to build it like yours.
what are the stats (value) of pieces that you didn't change on your dac?
Ex. L1 NPO
Thank
Spicer
PCB SMD IC New Hi End DAC 24 Bit 192K Hz AK4393 SC | eBay
I want to build it like yours.
what are the stats (value) of pieces that you didn't change on your dac?
Ex. L1 NPO
Thank
Spicer
10nF FKP2 opamp decoupling alternative size and type?
I see Darios BOM recommends the FKP2 10nF, and I am also using this one and I think it sounds really really nice.
But if I would like to try say an alternative like a polysterene or say any other type of cap "in the spirit of a true DIY'er" that I just could not get in this value, would a 6.8nF capacitor be much of a problem/loss here?
PS! Thank you very much for your previos reply Dario.
With kind regards
Martin
I see Darios BOM recommends the FKP2 10nF, and I am also using this one and I think it sounds really really nice.
But if I would like to try say an alternative like a polysterene or say any other type of cap "in the spirit of a true DIY'er" that I just could not get in this value, would a 6.8nF capacitor be much of a problem/loss here?
PS! Thank you very much for your previos reply Dario.
With kind regards
Martin
But if I would like to try say an alternative like a polysterene or say any other type of cap "in the spirit of a true DIY'er" that I just could not get in this value, would a 6.8nF capacitor be much of a problem/loss here?
I wouldn't go lower than 10nF. Polystirene are a good choice.
PS! Thank you very much for your previos reply Dario.
You're welcome Martin.