NAD D 3045 Overheating (Allegedly)

I did not notice that the NAD 3045 had no ventilation when I purchased it new and set it up in the vertical orientation. However, when I recently changed to horizontal, I noticed the NAD etched metal "badge" was hot to touch. When I put a small, brushless 12vdc fan between the cables behind the unit, the case cover cooled down to 28C.

The case cover is difficult to remove but I pried it open enough to insert an DS18B20 1-wire sensor for temperature measurement vertical/horizontal, with/without fan.
  • V: 33C, 41C
  • H: 37C, 52C

Now I am trying to determine if this is a problem that should be mitigated. Or maybe it is acceptable.

The NAD has a Hypex module mounted on standoffs on the motherboard, the power transistors or mosfets are screwed to a plate which is a modest heatsink. There is little clearance between the module and the cover. There is a vented metal box, I assume for EMI. But the narrow grill for the box is blocked by the internal structure so no help for the Hypex. For the curious, there is an open-case photo and nad-3045 review (in French) by on-mag.fr

Test NAD D 3045 : un ampli HiFi tutti rikiki, mais maousse costo

According to the Hypex FAQ, the module should be on a heatsink in a metal case with air flow vents.
 

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Since the D3045 power status is poorly placed, I installed a green LED on the front to show on/off state.
Opening the case was difficult as can be seen here:- Unbar The Foo The retaining screws on the back panel are hidden by a cover plate stuck on with a tarry substance.
 

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I have an issue with my D3045. Since you opened it maybe you know.

The screen does not rotate anymore. My unit is placed horizontally: at startup the NAD logo has the right orientation and almost immediately (a second or so), I can hear a “click” sound and then the screen rotate as if the unit was placed vertically. If you have a solution for this that would be great.

BTW my unit does not seem to overheat much.
Thanks for your help
 
Than you for the info about how to open the case. I have D3020 that has similarities in case design. Same problem with ventilation and heat. D3020 is notourios for dim or completely dead LEDs. LEDs expected lifetime drops sharply when temperature rises above certain point. Engineers in NAD definitely should know this, but apparently they don't care. D3045 is alot better because they replaced LEDs with OLED display and removed touch button, that you cannot see because of dead LED.

I'm going to change all dimmed out LEDs and try to fix ventilation somehow. Well see what I will come up with. It might not be pretty..

Pfp, there might be broken tilt switch/sensor in your amp. I don't know what component they might have used so I can't really help you.
 
Add Power-On LED To NAD D 3045

The NAD D 3045 Hybrid DAC Amplifier is very compact so the controls and indicators are minimal. There is a temporary indication of audio volume and source when power is applied. Nothing is indicated when the 3045 continues operating except the amber/white power status which is poorly located on the top or side (vertical/horizontal and barely visible in daylight. I added a LED inside and above the source knob which is green when the amplifier is active.

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The glossy plastic is mostly transparent. There is a layer of dark material applied inside to block unwanted light. However there happens to be blank spot above the source knob and that is where I installed the green LED.

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The LED needs a power-on signal. Without a schematic, I found no test point that could be tapped. But there happens to be a transistor power enable on the power-on touch board seen here in the lower left corner of the upside down 3045. I carefully soldered a 30 awg solid wire (white) which will activate the LED.

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The green LED and related components are soldered on a PCB fragment which is tacked to the top of the source selector using glue gun thermal glue. In addition to the power-on signal, which needs to be buffered by (R2), the PCB needs 3v3s (orange to D1) and gnd (green) from the mainboard header.

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Cover Removal:

Now we open the case. Notice there are rectangular tabs around the inside edge which are to be caught by tiny fingers on the top cover. I pried the cover partially open with a spackling tool to feed in a temperature sensor. That was a temporary task to measure the operating temperature (52C). An external fan is needed because heat is the enemy of semiconductor electronics.

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Removing the cover completely is difficult because the means of attachment are invisible. For example, the blue analogue input module is screwed to the top cover and also to the rear metal panel (light grey) which is covered by a thin black metal plate which has the connector labels. The black plate has three screws to align it but it hides six more that prevent opening the case.

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The two plates are joined by a sticky, tarry substance. Separating these two requires intuition and determination. But after the internal work is done, it can all be assembled without apparent damage.

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Cooling:

The D3045 has a few tiny holes in the rear panel for ventilation. There is a narrow grill in the top and bottom covers which is only for the metal box of power line components. It does not cool the Hypex module which is attached to the box by a metal bracket. This flat bracket is not a good heat conductor. The thermal resistance of the plastic case contributes to the excessive heat problem. If a plastic case feels warm know that the inside is hot.

The Hypex FAQ insists never operate the amplifier without a heatsink. See questions 9 and 10 for explanation.

I have a rented PVR which has a plastic case with tiny holes providing very little ventilation. It gets hot like the D3045. In recent days it randomly ignored the remote or got stuck on one channel. Finally it bricked and needed replacement. Never buy an amplifier in a plastic case. It is a potential hot brick.

Heat is the enemy of semiconductor electronics.

There is internal space where a fan could be installed in the D3045 but that would require drilling holes in the glossy plastic. Instead a fan placed behind the unit will lower the internal temperature and keep the cover near ambient. I attached the fan to a spare pcb to prevent it from tipping over when positioned between the wires.

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Conclusion:

The class-D concept for audio amplification was not a serious contender for many years. Now NAD and Hypex have advanced the technology. It looks superior from the specification numbers even though audiophiles may shrug. The D3045 has the power but the case design is so compact that usability is compromised. However, I am satisfied with the simplified power-on indication and improved cooling.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronics_right_to_repair .. proposed legislation may lead to better designs