Replacement amp for tactile transducer. 100wrms @ 2ohm

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A

ant810

Member
Joined 2018
Hello,

I have a buttkicker gamer that needs a new amp. It's a bass-shaker transducer that clamps on the post of an office chair, mostly for gaming.

I tripped over the wire and the amp fell about a foot onto the carpeted floor. The fuse blew and I can't get it working again. After some research it turns out the amps are notoriously bad and are known to catch on fire. Not to mention expensive to replace.

Here are my options:

(a) Buy a new amp from buttkicker. Expensive, junk, fire hazard.

(b) Find a 100W 2ohm stable amp for a reasonable price.

(c) Use a small car audio amp with a power supply.

(d) Look for a second transducer used on ebay, wire in series for 4ohm nominal. Use whatever 150-200w amp. It's powerful enough as-is but with 2 I could get the same output with less heat per driver.


Anyone have an opinions or suggestions?


Thanks,
Anthony


https://thebuttkicker.com/buttkicker-gamer2/
 
F

FauxFrench

Member
Joined 2017
Hi Anthony,

Amplifiers meant for 2 Ohm loads are car amplifiers. Distortion is not a primary concern. Luckily they can also be found cheap. 12V supplies with a high current rating are also available from a variety of brands. I believe this option to be the most fruitful.
Remember good cooling of the amplifier.
 
A

ant810

Member
Joined 2018
chermann said:
Hi

i jump in...
its funny ...Buttkicker :D

not caraudio:
ampSure Electronics' webstore 1 x 300Watt Class-D Audio Amplifier Board - TAS5613

300W @2 ohms (THD 10% is ok for the butt :D)

if 2 ohm want to have 250 WATTS --> P= I^2 *R --> I = sqrt(p/r) = sqrt(250/2) = 11,18 Amps
therefore a Mean well LRS 350-24 with max 14.6Amp could be ok

chris
Click to expand...

Hi Chris, thanks for the link. This looks like it would do the trick and fits the budget.

What do you suppose the output would be at 4ohms? Down the road I may decide to add a second transducer. (One on the seat, one on the stand for the racing sim wheel mount)

What do I do for a case, some kind of generic plastic project box?


FauxFrench said:
A very powerful suggestion from Chris.

Can your "butt-kicker" (and butt) stand 300W? If yes and within economical budget you hardly get more rough treatment with anything else.
Canadian ice hockey perhaps?
Click to expand...


No and no, but I could always turn it down. :D
 
K

Khron

Member
Joined 2005
khronscave.blogspot.com/
At least in theory, you might potentially be covered even with a single TPA3116 / TPA3118 in PBTL mode.

The datasheet says minimum load impedance is 1.6 ohm in PBTL, and the internal current limit is 7.5A [per output; since they're parallelled, that doubles]. Since distortion performance is not an issue, with a 19-20V 130W laptop brick you should be set.

That being said, i wouldn't trust the inductors on most ready-made far-eastern amp boards to handle working near the limits of what the amp chip is capable of, so there's that...
 
A

ant810

Member
Joined 2018
Khron said:
At least in theory, you might potentially be covered even with a single TPA3116 / TPA3118 in PBTL mode.

The datasheet says minimum load impedance is 1.6 ohm in PBTL, and the internal current limit is 7.5A [per output; since they're parallelled, that doubles]. Since distortion performance is not an issue, with a 19-20V 130W laptop brick you should be set.

That being said, i wouldn't trust the inductors on most ready-made far-eastern amp boards to handle working near the limits of what the amp chip is capable of, so there's that...
Click to expand...

Would the Dayton audio version be any better?


Dayton Audio KAB-230v3 2x30W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with Bluetooth 4.0
 
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