Hi,
I've got a spare in-wall speaker (Polk Audio MC85), and thougth I could try to do something fun with it.
My thoughts is to use a cooler box (25l) as an enclosure and use a Y148 together with a Bluetooth reciever board to make it bluetooth compatible.
I'm not quite sure what kind of battery to use, but I think I will use a 12v 7,2Ah SLA/AGM-battery, as this seems most straight forward, with least issues and possible dangers. I've considered a regular USB-power bank with a step up converter, and I have also considered buying 18650-cells to build a 4s2p power pack.
The 18650-cell option would probably be a bit cheaper, and most definitely lighter, but I'm new to all this, and worry about the dangers theese batteries provides (overcharging, discharging, need for balancing, issues regarding charging etc.).
I've bought a step down converter to provide power to the bluetooth module, and a spare USB-port (for phone charging etc).
I will also have a toggle on/off-switch, voltmeter and some LED-lights (for added bling) attached.
What do you think of this? Does it sound reasonable, or are there issues I've not considered?
I'm most unsure about the battery choice, so any input here is much appreciated. How many hours of use can I expect to get out of a 7,2Ah battery in this setup? Does step up/down-converters introduce noise to the amplifier? Anything I should do to avoid grounding noices?
With this setup I would only use one of the channels on the amplifier. I've read that it is possible to bridge the outputs, but that requires some modification to the amp. Ive also considered hooking up 2x4ohm car speakers in series (to get 8 ohm, same as the in wall speaker). Is this considered ok?
Any help is much appreciated, I'm new to all this
I've got a spare in-wall speaker (Polk Audio MC85), and thougth I could try to do something fun with it.
My thoughts is to use a cooler box (25l) as an enclosure and use a Y148 together with a Bluetooth reciever board to make it bluetooth compatible.
I'm not quite sure what kind of battery to use, but I think I will use a 12v 7,2Ah SLA/AGM-battery, as this seems most straight forward, with least issues and possible dangers. I've considered a regular USB-power bank with a step up converter, and I have also considered buying 18650-cells to build a 4s2p power pack.
The 18650-cell option would probably be a bit cheaper, and most definitely lighter, but I'm new to all this, and worry about the dangers theese batteries provides (overcharging, discharging, need for balancing, issues regarding charging etc.).
I've bought a step down converter to provide power to the bluetooth module, and a spare USB-port (for phone charging etc).
I will also have a toggle on/off-switch, voltmeter and some LED-lights (for added bling) attached.
What do you think of this? Does it sound reasonable, or are there issues I've not considered?
I'm most unsure about the battery choice, so any input here is much appreciated. How many hours of use can I expect to get out of a 7,2Ah battery in this setup? Does step up/down-converters introduce noise to the amplifier? Anything I should do to avoid grounding noices?
With this setup I would only use one of the channels on the amplifier. I've read that it is possible to bridge the outputs, but that requires some modification to the amp. Ive also considered hooking up 2x4ohm car speakers in series (to get 8 ohm, same as the in wall speaker). Is this considered ok?
Any help is much appreciated, I'm new to all this
You may run in trouble with this DCDC-Converter and BT Audio. You'd better got for an isolated one.
Like so:
DC-DC Buck Step Down Isolated Converter 9V-30V 24V 12V to 5V Power Supply Module | eBay
or:
DC/DC converter 2W isolated 12V IN/5V OUT REGULATED IB1205S-2W Mornsun x1pcs | eBay
Don't forget to put some capacitance on the output, like 220uF low esr.
Is S1 meant to be a switch or a pullable fuse? Battery should be fused for sure!
You may consider "Fritzing" for your schematics, easy to use with a big library.
Fritzing Fritzing
Like so:
DC-DC Buck Step Down Isolated Converter 9V-30V 24V 12V to 5V Power Supply Module | eBay
or:
DC/DC converter 2W isolated 12V IN/5V OUT REGULATED IB1205S-2W Mornsun x1pcs | eBay
Don't forget to put some capacitance on the output, like 220uF low esr.
Is S1 meant to be a switch or a pullable fuse? Battery should be fused for sure!
You may consider "Fritzing" for your schematics, easy to use with a big library.
Fritzing Fritzing
Thanks for your reply!
Yes, S1 is supposed to be a pullable fuse.
Im a complete novice, and really appreciate your input. However, I dont really understand what you are saying.
What kind of issues can I get with this DcDc-converter and Bluetooth-module? Noise?
Ive not read about capacitors on the output. What purpose does these serve? And how do I connect them? Which voltage should the capacitor be?
Also, any input regarding the battery?
Thanks again
Yes, S1 is supposed to be a pullable fuse.
Im a complete novice, and really appreciate your input. However, I dont really understand what you are saying.
What kind of issues can I get with this DcDc-converter and Bluetooth-module? Noise?
Ive not read about capacitors on the output. What purpose does these serve? And how do I connect them? Which voltage should the capacitor be?
Also, any input regarding the battery?
Thanks again
Bluetooth tends to be noisy when not powered from an isolated source depending on intersystem connection. Best way to avoid this is to use a isolated supply just for the BT-module.
Batterywise it's up to your budged and needs. If you go for i.e. 4s1p you will need a protection pcb with integrated balancer and a dedicated charger for this. If you go 4s1p you'll need a step-up for the amp and BT but charging is easy with these USB-Chargers.
You may consider using a 4s powerbank case from ali/ebay without cells. There you have a charger integrated and some sort of battery level indicator. The step-up for the amp then gets connected directly to the batteries (fused with switch). Isolated 5V can be done from one of the USB-Ports by a 5Vto5V isolated converter, which are way cheaper than the ones provided in the links.
For power banks i made some testing in the past here:
Vergleich Powerbank fur IoT ESP8266, ESP32, Arduino, GPS, Bluetooth – #360customs
These are usually available for <=$4.
Batterywise it's up to your budged and needs. If you go for i.e. 4s1p you will need a protection pcb with integrated balancer and a dedicated charger for this. If you go 4s1p you'll need a step-up for the amp and BT but charging is easy with these USB-Chargers.
You may consider using a 4s powerbank case from ali/ebay without cells. There you have a charger integrated and some sort of battery level indicator. The step-up for the amp then gets connected directly to the batteries (fused with switch). Isolated 5V can be done from one of the USB-Ports by a 5Vto5V isolated converter, which are way cheaper than the ones provided in the links.
For power banks i made some testing in the past here:
Vergleich Powerbank fur IoT ESP8266, ESP32, Arduino, GPS, Bluetooth – #360customs
These are usually available for <=$4.
Thanks again. At this point I think I will just have a go with the components I've bought, and go from there. I've still not recieved the amplifier.
Again, what is the purpose of the output capacitors? Is it to prevent frying the amp when connected without speakers? How do I connect them? Are these ok?
Again, what is the purpose of the output capacitors? Is it to prevent frying the amp when connected without speakers? How do I connect them? Are these ok?
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