The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

I have explained why before but to recap. The effective frequency range of the s2010 is quite limited and shouldn't be used over 1800hz-2100hz. At the same time the pht407n should have a cut-off at no lower than 2000hz. So it gives a very narrow overlap window and therefore requires steep filters.

But I've been meaning to update the filter for use with the HP10W anyways. Not because the current filter is bad in any way, it just could be a little better and offer slightly more protection for the tweeter when used with a larger amp than a 12/24V one.

The one I'm planning/working on will work with HP10W, S2010 and GW1058 for crossing to a pht407n with only changing a single resistor.

Makes a whole lot of sense then. Thank you for the thorough explanation :)
 
Hello, fellow Boominator builder here writing from Canada! Yesterday my friends and I began construction on the beast. I just have a quick question on sealing the woofers and tweeters.

I have seen in a video where a ring of sealant/caulk is placed around the perimeter of the woofers, and in the gaps of the peizos.

Could someone please confirm for me that this is indeed just sealant, or is it an adhesive? Any advice on a specific type to use?

I will be sure to post photos once it is completed :)
 
I used PL300 foamboard glue on my tweeters/woofers. Adheres/seals well and doesn't damage plastic.

Don't use silicone caulking, it offgasses acetic acid when it cures, which can corrode the speaker wiring. And don't use ordinary PL adhesive, it eats plastic.

My understanding (could well be wrong) is the stinky silicone releases acid and should not be used. The 'neutral cure' silicones are okay. See below from GE's website:

What's the difference between GE Silicone I* caulk and GE Silicone II* caulk?
GE Silicone II* caulk is what's called a "neutral cure" silicone, which means no acids are released during the curing process (as there are in GE Silicone I*). This enables GE Silicone II* to adhere to a broader range of substrates such as plastics, concrete, and metals. Also, the odor of a neutral cure silicone such as GE Silicone II* is much less offensive than an acid or acetoxy cure silicone such as GE Silicone I*.

Frequently Asked Questions About Products, Applications, Troubleshooting, and More
 
My understanding (could well be wrong) is the stinky silicone releases acid and should not be used. The 'neutral cure' silicones are okay. See below from GE's website:

What's the difference between GE Silicone I* caulk and GE Silicone II* caulk?
GE Silicone II* caulk is what's called a "neutral cure" silicone, which means no acids are released during the curing process (as there are in GE Silicone I*). This enables GE Silicone II* to adhere to a broader range of substrates such as plastics, concrete, and metals. Also, the odor of a neutral cure silicone such as GE Silicone II* is much less offensive than an acid or acetoxy cure silicone such as GE Silicone I*.

Frequently Asked Questions About Products, Applications, Troubleshooting, and More
Sounds suitable. I used PL300 because I had some left over from insulating my basement, and it seemed to have all the right attributes.
 
This product does not seem to be the same chemical composition as the the GE Silicone referenced above. I can't comment on it's suitability -- I just don't know enough about the product. I've listed some details below that I found from the data sheets on the off chance it helps someone. What I will say is I removed a speaker after front mounting with silicone II and I was shocked at how well bonded it was. It makes me think we are over thinking this. :)

GE Silicone II
30 % Treated fumed silica 68583-49-3 10
30 % Polydimethylsiloxane 63148-62-9 10
60 % Methoxypolydimethylsiloxane 68037-58-1 30

Tec7
Trimethoxyvinylsilane (no % or other contents listed)



Have you got access to something like this stuff?
It works really well.
Tec 7 - the perfect sealant and bonding agent
 
Battery drain...?????

I could do with a little help with a few Battery life questions.
I'm getting a voltage drop on my Boominator of about 0.1v per day when not in use, is this normal?
I have this panel mount socket installed for my C Tech battery charger.
CTEK 56-380 Comfort Indicator Panel accessory for compatible CTEK battery chargers.
It has a built in Battery life indicator with continuously flashing LED, could this be the culprit??
Also, Is there a way of using a Multimeter to check for current draw?
The only other thing I can think my be a problem is my Solar panels, is there a simple way of checking them too?
I understand there should be a Diode to stop Battery drain, yes?
Last of all...could some one explain the equation I'd need to work out projected Battery life with my 2XMaxamp and DSP setup.
Thanks a mill!!!
 
No, that's not normal. SLA batteries have a self discharge rate of around 5% per month. Things that are permanently connected to the battery will drain it. Put it after a switch.

For a rough estimation of total battery life:
AMP full volume: 4W
AMP moderate volume: 1W
MiniDSP: 1W
Battery capacity in Wh: Ah*Voltage

Divide battery capacity by usage.
So for a 12v 7,2ah with everything at max that would be:
(12,6*7,2) : (4+4+1)=9 hours.
 
Was the 1W consumption by the MiniDSP measured by somebody? If not, I'll try to measure the real consumption later today.

Also keep in mind that a lead acid battery cannot be fully discharged (without damaging the battery) so the actual playtime will be a bit less. 7.2Ah capacity is also rated at a 0.05C discharge rate, so the real capacity will also be a bit lower as the discharge rate is twice as high as 0.05C.
 
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Halfinator *.skp Drawings

Quick ? Guys,

So in my search I found quite one '*.skp' drawing on a different site. I'm starting off with the halfinator as my 1st build. Would it be safe to say that I can move forward with this drawing of a boominator, and simply build only 1 side of the box, in essence cutting the box in 1/2?

Or is their a better drawing for the Halfinator with specs & dimensions that I should use?

UPDATE: Newb, forgot to add link to the drawings I found.

https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=c3a0d350d168fbe7ca2b4c099598736b


Thanks All,
 
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That sketchup drawing is for Boominator MINI development version 2 with Aura NS525 woofers. If you have these woofers and this is what you intend to build then yes, it is the correct drawing (more or less as I've actually never released an official one for MINI Dev Rev 2).

So is it a Halfinator drawing? No. A halfinator is just one speaker compartment of a Boominator with optional electronic compartment size (or even if you want it at all). Whatever you do, don't adjust internal volume or size relationship between the sides in the speaker compartment. And don't put any electronics there either.