I'm unemployed right now and I am looking for a cheap project. I want to build a GC when $ allows, but for now I'd like to work with what I have. I have an old pioneer cd player (cd's don’t play) that I started pulling parts from, and I would like to use the chip amp inside. I should have all the supporting components as the radio still played and the unit basically worked.
Here is a data sheet from a HA13151 which I found out is a comparable replacement and because I could find a datasheet for the pioneer PA3029A.
I will probably just use the circuit on the datasheet.
Is there a way to bridge this into a 2 channel?
I also downloaded eagle to lay out a board, I'm not sure how to use it yet though.
If anyone can offer me advice, it would be welcome.
Thanks
Steve
Here is a data sheet from a HA13151 which I found out is a comparable replacement and because I could find a datasheet for the pioneer PA3029A.
I will probably just use the circuit on the datasheet.
Is there a way to bridge this into a 2 channel?
I also downloaded eagle to lay out a board, I'm not sure how to use it yet though.
If anyone can offer me advice, it would be welcome.
Thanks
Steve
I wanted to use what I have now because it's free. I will build a better amp next.
Also, for people who strip parts off of broken electronics, what is your system for organizing them. I want to be able to see what parts I have on had fairly quickly. I already seperated them by type; caps, resistors, diodes, ICs,....ect.
Thanks
Steve
Also, for people who strip parts off of broken electronics, what is your system for organizing them. I want to be able to see what parts I have on had fairly quickly. I already seperated them by type; caps, resistors, diodes, ICs,....ect.
Thanks
Steve
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Try to get your hands on cases like this.cancerkazoo said:
That’s how I did it, picture shows part of the stock.
Find a simple inventory program or DIY yourself something with MS Access.
Give everything a simple code like C100/25 or R100k or just the name of the semiconductor or IC
Keep it simple.
/Hugo
Attachments
last year i stripped a lot of parts out of old electronics i was tossing. a drawer system would have been great, but i'd need so many that it was rather pricey vs the value of the parts, and would take too much wall space.
my compromise was a couple of tupperware style divided boxes for things like caps, and then ziplock bags for all the rest like resistors. write the ohms on a card and toss that in each bag. now you can flip through them like a library cardfile. these are kept in thin cigarbox sized boxes that videocards and whatnot come in now. the value range inside is marked on the end of the box. all the component boxes go into one file box when not in use, and are spread on the kitchen table when they are.
it's not ideal, but it's small, cheap, tidy, and works reasonably well.
oh, and anti-static bags for ICs. if you know anyone who does a lot of computer upgrades, they may have extras.
my compromise was a couple of tupperware style divided boxes for things like caps, and then ziplock bags for all the rest like resistors. write the ohms on a card and toss that in each bag. now you can flip through them like a library cardfile. these are kept in thin cigarbox sized boxes that videocards and whatnot come in now. the value range inside is marked on the end of the box. all the component boxes go into one file box when not in use, and are spread on the kitchen table when they are.
it's not ideal, but it's small, cheap, tidy, and works reasonably well.
oh, and anti-static bags for ICs. if you know anyone who does a lot of computer upgrades, they may have extras.
Well, first you go the page at www.national.com about the 3875. From there, you can click on the 24-hr sample button. I would choose model LM3875TF (dont get the LM3875T version because the metal tab is not isolated from the heatsink, therefore with that version you either have to mess with insulators, or make sure the heatsink never touches anything. The TF version has the insulator built in so you don't have to worry about the heatsink coming in contact with something else). From there you login or if you don't have an account create one with them.
About the emails, yes, most email addresses do not work, mostly every one. How they do it is after like 5 orders from a single address, they start charging shipping charges.
How I do this is I have a couple of websites from www.50megs.com. Those websites come with a forwarding feature so any email sent to webmaster@yoursite.com is forwarded to your real address. When you use that address, it is pretty much guaranteed that nobody else has it, and you can get the samples without shipping charge. Just sign up at www.50megs.com then enable email forwarding.
Hope this helps,
Mike
About the emails, yes, most email addresses do not work, mostly every one. How they do it is after like 5 orders from a single address, they start charging shipping charges.
How I do this is I have a couple of websites from www.50megs.com. Those websites come with a forwarding feature so any email sent to webmaster@yoursite.com is forwarded to your real address. When you use that address, it is pretty much guaranteed that nobody else has it, and you can get the samples without shipping charge. Just sign up at www.50megs.com then enable email forwarding.
Hope this helps,
Mike
Are there any advantages to using the metal tab and a ceramic insulator (or the thermal tape), if there is where would you get them in the correct size vs. a standard transistor size. I heard you need a larger heatsink with the insulated version or is it just a trivial difference. I would like to make the end product as small as possible.
Thanks
Steve
Where do you get that thermal tape? I've seen it in a lot of car audio amps.
Thanks
Steve
Where do you get that thermal tape? I've seen it in a lot of car audio amps.
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