Well said Nuuk
Over the years i have accumulated boxes of parts, sometimes 'audio grade' which are pure junk and i'll never use. No amount of opinion polling will really help you decide what sounds best for your ears. Sooner or later you have to bite the bullet and listen for yourself if you're half serious. And be ready for the occassional disappontment
Over the years i have accumulated boxes of parts, sometimes 'audio grade' which are pure junk and i'll never use. No amount of opinion polling will really help you decide what sounds best for your ears. Sooner or later you have to bite the bullet and listen for yourself if you're half serious. And be ready for the occassional disappontment
Where can we buy Blackgates in Europe? RS and Farnell dont seem to sell them. What about Elnas RJH?
What resistors are you using for the output 0R22? I saw Caddocks in the RS catalog for 4.93 euros which seems a good choice.
I have a supermarket GC based on OPA549 and now I want to try the real design
Miguel
What resistors are you using for the output 0R22? I saw Caddocks in the RS catalog for 4.93 euros which seems a good choice.
I have a supermarket GC based on OPA549 and now I want to try the real design
Miguel
fmak said:
Without burning in period, I found standard BG to sound better than N type. Even now, after quite a long time of usage, I'm still not sure if N types are much better than 3 times cheaper standard grade of BG. I never tried FK, could it be that they are better than N type. It seems to me like standard caps present more direct and lively sound, while N type is very laid back with possibly more detail.
analog_sa said:
I was bypassing before, as this was a common practice I picked up without much thinking about it. My recent experiments show, that indeed when bypassing the sound the sound seems to be indeed disjointed. You got initially the impression of more clarity and detail, but this is at the cost of loosing natuaral integrity of the sound, if I can use that expression.
As to resistors, while I like the Caddocks in feedback position over Rikens, I recently tried Caddocks as I/V resistors in my tda1543 DAC and I preffered Rikens. So I would say that choosing best resistor for a job is very circuit depandant, you just have to try as many as you can and choose the one you like the most.
Mills wirewounds (5W) work pretty good at the output of GC with adding only a little bit of sonic signature, which is not annoying. If you looking for that resistors, put an add "parts wanted" in trading post as those resistors were bought in 1K quantity as a forum's group buy. But you don't really need those resistors.
I have to drop a line here...
Guys, just some thoughts here.
It seams many people like Panasonic caps.
Experience tells me, from devices I own or owned or devices from other people I've put my hands on, that they don't last long.
In reliability terms, they are the worst I've seem.
After having plenty of problems with my Panasonic video over the years, which I always fixed by my own, and a Technics cassette deck, and lately a CD player that was given to me, I have to say this:
I AVOID PANASONIC CAPS LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!
Deam, on that CD player there were about 20 1uf caps, all Panasonic, and all with moisture under them.
The Elnas were perfect, and the cheap ones too.
It's always the same story, believe me.
Now... I don't use high-end caps, even on my GCs.
When I buy caps I look for Philips, Rubycon, Nichicon, Jamicon, etc.
I used 1000uf Daewoo caps (I had them...), bypassed with Philips 6.8uf, and again 0.1uf poly on my GC. The input caps are Philips 2.7uf polyesters.
The sound is so impressive...
Actually, I think that more important than using cap A or B is the layout.
You can eventually hear a small difference from one cap to the other, but with a bad layout even the BGs won't save you.
Guys, just some thoughts here.
It seams many people like Panasonic caps.
Experience tells me, from devices I own or owned or devices from other people I've put my hands on, that they don't last long.
In reliability terms, they are the worst I've seem.
After having plenty of problems with my Panasonic video over the years, which I always fixed by my own, and a Technics cassette deck, and lately a CD player that was given to me, I have to say this:
I AVOID PANASONIC CAPS LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!
Deam, on that CD player there were about 20 1uf caps, all Panasonic, and all with moisture under them.
The Elnas were perfect, and the cheap ones too.
It's always the same story, believe me.
Now... I don't use high-end caps, even on my GCs.
When I buy caps I look for Philips, Rubycon, Nichicon, Jamicon, etc.
I used 1000uf Daewoo
caps (I had them...), bypassed with Philips 6.8uf, and again 0.1uf poly on my GC. The input caps are Philips 2.7uf polyesters.The sound is so impressive...
Actually, I think that more important than using cap A or B is the layout.
You can eventually hear a small difference from one cap to the other, but with a bad layout even the BGs won't save you.
Nuuk said:
So they are not in the Farnell catalogue then?
Farnell owns or have ties with Newark
----------------------------------------------------------
Peter Daniel said:
Without burning in period, I found standard BG to sound better than N type. Even now, after quite a long time of usage, I'm still not sure if N types are much better than 3 times cheaper standard grade of BG. I never tried FK, could it be that they are better than N type.
-----------------------------------------------------------
You should try FKs; they sound good with short burn in. I don't like the standrd BGs for coupling much.
I was bypassing before, as this was a common practice I picked up without much thinking about it. My recent experiments show, that indeed when bypassing the sound the sound seems to be indeed disjointed. You got initially the impression of more clarity and detail, but this is at the cost of loosing natuaral integrity of the sound, if I can use that expression.
As to resistors, while I like the Caddocks in feedback position over Rikens, I recently tried Caddocks as I/V resistors in my tda1543 DAC and I preffered Rikens. So I would say that choosing best resistor for a job is very circuit depandant, you just have to try as many as you can and choose the one you like the most.
Mills wirewounds (5W) work pretty good at the output of GC with adding only a little bit of sonic signature, which is not annoying. If you looking for that resistors, put an add "parts wanted" in trading post as those resistors were bought in 1K quantity as a forum's group buy. But you don't really need those resistors.
>>You should try FKs; they sound good with short burn in. I don't like the standrd BGs for coupling much.<<
For coupling I'm only using N type and its always 4.7u (as that the value I only keep). With standard grade (and N type) I was talking about 1000u PS filtering caps.
I don't know about Panasonic cap. Maybe the specific type you saw wasn't good. I'm using whole bunch of HFQ 1,500u in one of my amps, I checked the recently after 8 years and they measure pretty good. The temp in the amp is about 50deg C.
For coupling I'm only using N type and its always 4.7u (as that the value I only keep). With standard grade (and N type) I was talking about 1000u PS filtering caps.
I don't know about Panasonic cap. Maybe the specific type you saw wasn't good. I'm using whole bunch of HFQ 1,500u in one of my amps, I checked the recently after 8 years and they measure pretty good. The temp in the amp is about 50deg C.
Peter Daniel said:
They may be good caps, but they don't last lonng, believe me.
When I see one, I replace it.
Not a specific type.
I've seem plenty of them.
I replaced ONLY all the Panasonic caps on that CD player and the transport came alive.
Before it didn't read one single CD.
Not to tell you the story of my video (all the electrolythics replaced) and my cassette deck (same story).
Oh, and I had to open my TV a year ago.
There was a bad cap there.
Panasonic.
I just gave you my experience.
I avoid them like the plague.
I don't know about Panasonic cap. Maybe the specific type you saw wasn't good. I'm using whole bunch of HFQ 1,500u in one of my amps
----------------------------------------------------------
HFQs are popular in N America. However, they are no match for Nihicon ZL and ZAs for low impedance. Try them, even though they cost more.
----------------------------------------------------------
HFQs are popular in N America. However, they are no match for Nihicon ZL and ZAs for low impedance. Try them, even though they cost more.
I believe the ZAs and ZLs you are referring to are Rubycon capacitors. If anyone knows where one can buy these Rubycons in small quanties in the States (or anywhere else), I'd appreciate it. Pioneer Electronics used to have the 50v, ZLs 1,000 mmf, but they've been sold to Avnet.... [/B][/QUOTE]
-------------------------------------------------
Sorry, slip of memory - Rubycon available from Farnell or thru' Newark perhaps since the two are linked.
-------------------------------------------------
Sorry, slip of memory - Rubycon available from Farnell or thru' Newark perhaps since the two are linked.
Hi,
My theory on this is that it's probably the difference in transient response from the two different technologies that is responsible for the subjective feeling that the sound is disjointed.
It's anologous to trying to mate a fast mid-high ESL panel to a dynamic woofer...when done wrong you have a similar impression.
Simpler still, if you use a filmcap in the tweeter section of a two way LS and a lytic in the low-mid section it also seems as if the tweeter is out of character with respect of the rest of the frequency range.
With modern good quality, low ESR lytic caps available it doesn't make all that much sense to decouple anyway.
Another analogy where the same subjective effect occurs is when you transit from say, solid core wire, to multistrand, at least IME.
Cheers,
My theory on this is that it's probably the difference in transient response from the two different technologies that is responsible for the subjective feeling that the sound is disjointed.
It's anologous to trying to mate a fast mid-high ESL panel to a dynamic woofer...when done wrong you have a similar impression.
Simpler still, if you use a filmcap in the tweeter section of a two way LS and a lytic in the low-mid section it also seems as if the tweeter is out of character with respect of the rest of the frequency range.
With modern good quality, low ESR lytic caps available it doesn't make all that much sense to decouple anyway.
Another analogy where the same subjective effect occurs is when you transit from say, solid core wire, to multistrand, at least IME.
Cheers,
Re: I have to drop a line here...
I am just the opposite. I have had multiple Sony failing on me, but my Panasonic have held up reasonably well. The only Panasonic failed so far is a shortwave radio where the battery connection for somereason went south.
carlosfm said:I AVOID PANASONIC CAPS LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!
I am just the opposite. I have had multiple Sony failing on me, but my Panasonic have held up reasonably well. The only Panasonic failed so far is a shortwave radio where the battery connection for somereason went south.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.