Hi guys! I'm new here, although I've gathered lots of good info from this forum as guest. Thanks for the great community you've built!
I'm planning an install in my car soon and since I'm new to active car audio systems, I was wondering if you can give me some hints in case I'm missing something. I have a background in studio recording and sound engineering, but with the car stuff - bar a couple of simple systems, not so much.
My project:
Car - Lexus IS200 sedan. Originally with 6"3/4 components in the front doors and 7x10" active coaxials on the rear shelf with an OEM 6 channel amp.
Source - Android tablet with a HiFime UAE23 DAC (Sabre ES9023). 2nd source - the OEM head unit via its front stereo line level outputs (originally going to the OEM amp).
DAC - Dayton Audio DSP-408 (both stereo sources fed into its 4 inputs)
Amps - 2x Alpine 3555(love these and the way they sound)
Speakers - STEG ST650c at the front and DLS M3710 or DLS R1073 at the rear.
The idea is to have no sub (if I can get away with it), hence the pair of 7x10" speakers for the rear in place of the original ones of the same size. Both DLS models feature an external passive crossover network, so I was hoping to be able to run them active (even easier as they're close to the amps). If I have to, I can switch to standard passive crossovers for the rears and run the amp bridged for 2x170W or so.
So one 4-channel amp (able to deliver about 65W at 4 ohm per channel) for the front and one for the rear.
I'm planning on using my calibrated acoustic measurement system to set it all up channel by channel with delays and everything.
That's the plan at least.
Do you have any pointers about setting up the crossovers on the DSP? Of course I'll use my ears and measurement equipment, but it'll help if I've dialed it in well in the first place...
Of course I'll sound deaden everything I can get to and also use additional sound insulation materials wherever I can. These cars are pretty overbuilt anyway, but treatment always helps, so that goes without saying.
As for wiring, RCAs front to rear (to the DSP), 2 AWG from the battery to the rear distribution block, 4 AWG to the amps, 15 AWG to each speaker, big 3 upgrade, 1.2F cap at the rear for the hell of it.
Am I missing something? Do you have any pointers to make my slide into active ICE smoother?
Thanks a lot in advance!
I'm planning an install in my car soon and since I'm new to active car audio systems, I was wondering if you can give me some hints in case I'm missing something. I have a background in studio recording and sound engineering, but with the car stuff - bar a couple of simple systems, not so much.
My project:
Car - Lexus IS200 sedan. Originally with 6"3/4 components in the front doors and 7x10" active coaxials on the rear shelf with an OEM 6 channel amp.
Source - Android tablet with a HiFime UAE23 DAC (Sabre ES9023). 2nd source - the OEM head unit via its front stereo line level outputs (originally going to the OEM amp).
DAC - Dayton Audio DSP-408 (both stereo sources fed into its 4 inputs)
Amps - 2x Alpine 3555(love these and the way they sound)
Speakers - STEG ST650c at the front and DLS M3710 or DLS R1073 at the rear.
The idea is to have no sub (if I can get away with it), hence the pair of 7x10" speakers for the rear in place of the original ones of the same size. Both DLS models feature an external passive crossover network, so I was hoping to be able to run them active (even easier as they're close to the amps). If I have to, I can switch to standard passive crossovers for the rears and run the amp bridged for 2x170W or so.
So one 4-channel amp (able to deliver about 65W at 4 ohm per channel) for the front and one for the rear.
I'm planning on using my calibrated acoustic measurement system to set it all up channel by channel with delays and everything.
That's the plan at least.
Do you have any pointers about setting up the crossovers on the DSP? Of course I'll use my ears and measurement equipment, but it'll help if I've dialed it in well in the first place...
Of course I'll sound deaden everything I can get to and also use additional sound insulation materials wherever I can. These cars are pretty overbuilt anyway, but treatment always helps, so that goes without saying.
As for wiring, RCAs front to rear (to the DSP), 2 AWG from the battery to the rear distribution block, 4 AWG to the amps, 15 AWG to each speaker, big 3 upgrade, 1.2F cap at the rear for the hell of it.
Am I missing something? Do you have any pointers to make my slide into active ICE smoother?
Thanks a lot in advance!
Why not buy an used or new Helix DSP. It has more outputs and more features.
I had problems to connect a Hifime optical to the Helix DSP.
In my car i have a nexus tablet with Timur Kernel. There is connected a Aureon Dual USB, from this Soundcard with Optical cable into the Helix DSP. This works very good. Additional for the Helix DSP i build a remote control for Volume, Sub-Vol., an a Button to change the Setup or another Input. The Helix is free configurable in this.
It should be enough, to have only Speakers at the front to get it audiophile.
Crossover should set for the beginning with your speaker:
Steg ST650 LP 2800Hz/24db, Tweeter HP 3200-3500Hz/24db. The exact values you must measure with your equipment. Good tool for measuring is REW. Its for free from AV Nirvana.
I had problems to connect a Hifime optical to the Helix DSP.
In my car i have a nexus tablet with Timur Kernel. There is connected a Aureon Dual USB, from this Soundcard with Optical cable into the Helix DSP. This works very good. Additional for the Helix DSP i build a remote control for Volume, Sub-Vol., an a Button to change the Setup or another Input. The Helix is free configurable in this.
It should be enough, to have only Speakers at the front to get it audiophile.
Crossover should set for the beginning with your speaker:
Steg ST650 LP 2800Hz/24db, Tweeter HP 3200-3500Hz/24db. The exact values you must measure with your equipment. Good tool for measuring is REW. Its for free from AV Nirvana.
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