My version of an Ultrasonic Record Cleaner

Thanks, B B. This is definitely handy for ordering pump/filter assembly parts.
My US unit is a L&R Quantrex 280, which is rated for 60 kHz, which is desirable; alas it does not have a heater. Reading this thread, I continuously see that heating the medium to 50*C is important. Is there a way to add an external heater to my unit?
 
Hi Dmitry
Heating definitely aids cleaning effectiveness, but you can get good results without it. Over an extended cleaning session, the bath in your URC heats up anyway, so it is possible to survive without a heater.

You do have a couple of options for adding heat. The simplest solution is to take your water that will be mixed into your cleaning solution and warm it to 55C/130F in the microwave.

If you're industrious and feel comfortable modifying equipment, you could open up your ultrasonic cleaner and add a silicone rubber heater to the side of the tank with adhesive. That's what the heated UC's use, but you need to rig up a thermostat if you really want to do it right. At their simplest, the heaters are like this:
silicone rubber heater

Or more expensive ones have thermostat control:
Silicone Heater with Thermostat

You don't need a lot of power for this application -- 100 to 200w is plenty. I haven't rigged one of these up since my UC came with a heater, so don't depend on my advice here -- do your own research.
Cheers
B B
 
I'm new to this thread and would like to set up a DIY ultrasonic record cleaning system. I am NOT handy, do NOT really do many DIY projects, and don't have tools like a drill press, etc. So I'm looking for a relatively easy to assemble system and willing to pay more for the ease of set-up. I'm thinking of buying a Sonix URC because of the potential advantages of the 60 kHz transducers. I'm also interested in the Vinyl Stack Ultra Sonic Spin Kit sold on eBay. I already have a VPI 16.5 record cleaner and my thought is that I would take the ultrasonically cleaned records on the Vinyl Stack spindle over to my VPI machine and probably squirt the records with distilled water or perhaps an existing product like l'Art du Son and then apply that to the record using a MoFi record brush and vacuum it off with the VPI. Voila -- clean record.

My question for all of you in this post concerns filtering. I've seen bbftx's DIY filter parts list and it looks like a great solution. But as I said, I'm not handy and even this modest project is daunting to me. Are there other filters out there that require less assembly but would still be effective at filtering at the micron level? I would be willing to pay more for an off the shelf solution. Is filtering really that crucial? Going filter-less just means changing the cleaning solution more often, right? I would love to hear any ideas that you might have.

Jon



I'm not sure what to do about filtering
 
Easy: If you use the Sonix IV 6 or even the 10 litre tank then changing out fluid after X number of records shouldn't be a big deal or expense. As yet I do not think there is a premade unit that would easily hookup to the US cleaner easily without a little DIY. I would also recommend getting one of their tanks with a built in heater.

As far as using the Vinyl stack unit there are some negatives in my opinion. The two major negatives are the too fast rotation speed (1-5 min per rev) and the distance between spacers (3/8" or 1/2"). As recommended per this thread rotation should be at least a 10 - 15 minute rotation and at least 1" minimum spacing between records. The other negative is the weight of the records and spacers are all loaded on the motor spindle instead of being bearing supported which in time will cause the motor to fail (IMHO).
 
Zg: Thanks for the helpful advice. Going without a filter would make this an easier jump for me. It looks like the built-in heater for the Sonix 10 quart model adds about $110 to the price, though I have yet to confirm that.

Regarding the Vinyl Stack unit, the seller on eBay is happy to do a minor modification (for a minor uptick in price) that would create a full 1 inch spacing between records. This would also reduce the number of records you could load from 4 to 3, but that's not too big of a deal for me. I haven't seen any complaints about the motor failing on the Vinyl Stack in my research. I have less than 1000 records to clean, so it may not be as much of a concern for me as for other people with huge collections.

Any other people have thoughts on going forward without a filter?
 
Thanks, B B. This is definitely handy for ordering pump/filter assembly parts.
My US unit is a L&R Quantrex 280, which is rated for 60 kHz, which is desirable; alas it does not have a heater. Reading this thread, I continuously see that heating the medium to 50*C is important. Is there a way to add an external heater to my unit?

Is this a Q280 model? The reason I ask is all the info online says this is a 43KHZ unit.

http://www.lrultrasonics.com/industries/watch/quantrex.html

I bought on Ebay a silicon heater pad for around $30 bucks and added it to my cleaner. Wasn't too much of an issue to open up unit to attach.
 
Easy, I have an Elmasonic machine, and the way I filter the fluid is to 1) let the unit rest overnight, and 2) open the valve to a trickle of about 2 litres per hour. Or, you could use a syphon. The last few drops contain 95% of the detritus. Presto, clean fluid.

I use the vinyl stack also, and recommend it highly. But I would allow more than 1 wavelength between records, because records are not perfectly flat. My practice is to allow a minimum of 1 wavelength at the smallest gap between any two records. This means two records per cycle, true. But I reserve the right to be slightly mad in my hobbies.
 
Easy, I have an Elmasonic machine, and the way I filter the fluid is to 1) let the unit rest overnight, and 2) open the valve to a trickle of about 2 litres per hour. Or, you could use a syphon. The last few drops contain 95% of the detritus. Presto, clean fluid.

Many contaminants on LPs are water or alcohol soluble, and the cleaning solution contains dissolved and suspended contaminants that increase with each record cleaned. Not all LP contaminants sink to the bottom. When it's time to change the cleaning solution, it's time to change all of it. Filtering delays this somewhat and extends the life of the cleaning solution. But the entire batch still needs to be changed.
Cheers,
B B
 
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Many contaminants on LPs are water or alcohol soluble, and the cleaning solution contains dissolved and suspended contaminants that increase with each record cleaned. Not all LP contaminants sink to the bottom. When it's time to change the cleaning solution, it's time to change all of it. Filtering delays this somewhat and extends the life of the cleaning solution. But the entire batch still needs to be changed.
Cheers,
B B

This raises a good question -- how do you know when it is time to change the cleaning solution?

I am taking the plunge and have just ordered a Sonix 126 10-quart model with heater directly from Sonix. I have also ordered the Vinyl Stack Spin Kit from eBay and the seller is modifying it so that the stack holds 3 records that are spaced one inch apart. I also bought a brand new product that he developed which allows one to remove the vinyl stack from its magnetic attachment and then reattach it, magnetically, to a stand that will securely hold the stack of records and spacers at a 45 degree angle. You can drip dry the records this way. But I will probably use it as a holding station before and after I rinse the records in distilled water and then vacuum dry the records on my VPI 16.5. I ordered two of these record holders for $20 apiece. For a little over $1200, I hope to have a system that cleans three records at a time as well or better than the megabuck cleaners.

Getting back to my question: How do I know when to change the cleaning solution? I will not be using a filter. If I can get 30-40 records cleaned in an afternoon or evening session, I'm thinking that I should just get rid of the solution at that point -- the combination of distilled water, 99% IPA, and photo flo just doesn't cost that much, so why not start over again with clean solution?
 
How do I know when to change the cleaning solution? I will not be using a filter. If I can get 30-40 records cleaned in an afternoon or evening session, I'm thinking that I should just get rid of the solution at that point -- the combination of distilled water, 99% IPA, and photo flo just doesn't cost that much, so why not start over again with clean solution?

I'm not a big fan of letting the solution sit around overnight. So I dump it at the end of the day.

With a filter, I really don't worry otherwise about changing the solution during a long cleaning session.

Without a filter, solution life depends on the state of the dirty LPs you're cleaning.
Not sure I'd ever go beyond 40 LPs on the same batch of fluid without a filter, however. But that's just gut feel, I don't have anything to back that up since I use a filter.

Good Luck,
B B
 
Dear All,
After reading more than 100 pages of My version of an Ultrasonic Record Cleaner, I decided to make my own US project.
As far as I understand, there are two proven 60kHz Ultrasonic cleaner at an reasonable price, Sonix IV and Vibrato.
Both are 120v but I think there is no problem to change internal PS or use external step down transformer.
I'm going to visit Pittsburgh PA next month, and I'd like to order the machine there.
I'd like to ask, is Sonix IV ST(ET)136 include drain valve?
What is the package dimensions? Is it possible to put it in big suitcase?
 
Dear All,
After reading more than 100 pages of My version of an Ultrasonic Record Cleaner, I decided to make my own US project.
As far as I understand, there are two proven 60kHz Ultrasonic cleaner at an reasonable price, Sonix IV and Vibrato.
Both are 120v but I think there is no problem to change internal PS or use external step down transformer.
I'm going to visit Pittsburgh PA next month, and I'd like to order the machine there.
I'd like to ask, is Sonix IV ST(ET)136 include drain valve?
What is the package dimensions? Is it possible to put it in big suitcase?

The ST136 does have a drain! Dimensions are about 12"x12"x7". You can probably get it in a really big suitcase. Might take a little work though! Good luck!
 
Thank you for reply,
Its Overall Dimensions are 12.0 x 6.4 x 11.6 in (30.5 x 16.3 x 29.5 cm).
I'm looking for original packaging dimensions.

If you order it from "findings outlet" (cheapest price) it doesn't come in any sort of original packing. The unit itself comes covered in cardboard and packed in a bigger box stuffed with what ever the folks at finders outlet have lying around (paper, cardboard, peanuts). They're not very good at packing, to say the least.
 
I have ordered a 15L version of the ubiquitous Chinese-made US cleaner, and would like to alert you regarding the heater unit on this machine.
I think it's a good idea to check the temperature displayed on your unit with a good thermometer. In my case, the temperature on the unit display was 45*C, while my trusty mercury lab thermometer showed 55*C!!!
The unit also heats up the water quite quickly, so in addition to the incorrect reading from the unit's heat sensor, the rapidly-heated water may and will warp your records, possibly irreversibly.
Just a heads-up for you all.

This is the unit I'm referring to. I'm sure many of us have ordered these.
$_57.JPG



Also, I have a question, since my unit didn't come with a drain hose and coupling - what size brass fixture fits into the unit's drain spigot with internal thread?