For future reference, it would be great and extremely helpful if those having Class D would briefly describe their system:
-what are the components (Amp, Cd player, Loudspeakers);
-subjectively, what are advantages/disadvatages of the latter system.
-what are the components (Amp, Cd player, Loudspeakers);
-subjectively, what are advantages/disadvatages of the latter system.
Reboxed Sonic Impact with replaced pot and capacitors (input + power)
Marantz CD63KI-S with muting transistors and output caps removed
Tannoy Revolution R1 speakers
Currently waiting on inductors.
Great sound - much better than the Marantz PM66KI-S that I was using. Clear, low bass extension from very small speakers.
Would like a little more 'air' but just being greedy!
Marantz CD63KI-S with muting transistors and output caps removed
Tannoy Revolution R1 speakers
Currently waiting on inductors.
Great sound - much better than the Marantz PM66KI-S that I was using. Clear, low bass extension from very small speakers.
Would like a little more 'air' but just being greedy!
All systems frontended by computer.
Main system:
PC-1 -> Terratec Aureon Universe Toslink -> Benchmark DAC1
PC-2 -> Terratec DMX 6Fire spdif -> DAC1
DAC1 -> (balanced) -> UcD180 -> Lowther EX3. Bootiful.
System #2:
PC -> Russ Andrews modified Pro Hi-Fi Link -> Charlize -> Wharfdale flat panels. Bass heavy.
System #3
PC -> Creative X-Fi -> Dr Amp -> Wharfdale Glendales. Gaming crap.
System #4
PC -> Amp 6 (when I get round to assembling it).
Main system:
PC-1 -> Terratec Aureon Universe Toslink -> Benchmark DAC1
PC-2 -> Terratec DMX 6Fire spdif -> DAC1
DAC1 -> (balanced) -> UcD180 -> Lowther EX3. Bootiful.
System #2:
PC -> Russ Andrews modified Pro Hi-Fi Link -> Charlize -> Wharfdale flat panels. Bass heavy.
System #3
PC -> Creative X-Fi -> Dr Amp -> Wharfdale Glendales. Gaming crap.
System #4
PC -> Amp 6 (when I get round to assembling it).
Sony CDP-X222es with Silmics exchanged for standard caps, Sharp MD with modded power supply and audio, Sansui TU33S, Project Debut with Ortofon MC1 Turbo thru' modified QED phonostage into Amp 3 and Musical Technology Kestrels. (82 db spl @ 1 mtr and surprisingly loud levels with no clipping in a 5 X 4 mtr room.
Deep, smooth sound with loads of low level detail and precise imaging.
Much, much, better than a modified Arcam Alpha 7 and even a famed Lentek integrated.
Really chuffed actually because it just shouldn't work in theory!
Now if I can only get my CDP-227esd going again I'll be in heaven.
Deep, smooth sound with loads of low level detail and precise imaging.
Much, much, better than a modified Arcam Alpha 7 and even a famed Lentek integrated.
Really chuffed actually because it just shouldn't work in theory!
Now if I can only get my CDP-227esd going again I'll be in heaven.
cd player : luxman D105u (tube output stage), muting modified (mute transistor deleted in favor of a micro relay), i/v converter modified (op amp deleted).
amp: (under construction) IR audamp adaptation, 2ch with ±200wrms, other curent amp is a sony es or a Pass labs repro class A (that pumps out a mere 10w with 0,00001%eff 😀 compared to the 90%+ of the IR
... ).
speakers: Quest towers,speakers changed, cross over modified
To say the least, my latest "shock" listening was a MBL kit at CES (MBL101E + MBL 9011)...
the sound of my system come second...
Pat
amp: (under construction) IR audamp adaptation, 2ch with ±200wrms, other curent amp is a sony es or a Pass labs repro class A (that pumps out a mere 10w with 0,00001%eff 😀 compared to the 90%+ of the IR
... ).speakers: Quest towers,speakers changed, cross over modified
To say the least, my latest "shock" listening was a MBL kit at CES (MBL101E + MBL 9011)...
the sound of my system come second...
Pat
Yes MBL, sorry
Pat,
They sure don't have much to say about what they are doing inside their amps, do they? Note; they do say they are very expensive. The part about getting the entire note right from beginning to end sure sounds like class D to me. If it isn’t, a class D could do the same for far less money.
Roger
Pat,
They sure don't have much to say about what they are doing inside their amps, do they? Note; they do say they are very expensive. The part about getting the entire note right from beginning to end sure sounds like class D to me. If it isn’t, a class D could do the same for far less money.
Roger
hummm, i cant argue about MBL stuff other than it was /$?%"/$%/$ awesome, never heard anything like it.
Yes they are expensive, figure something like 100k just for the speakers...it seems like there is a market for this kind of expensive stuff.
Did you read most what they sayd??
No its not class D. If my memory is ok, there was tube all over.
Pat
Yes they are expensive, figure something like 100k just for the speakers...it seems like there is a market for this kind of expensive stuff.
Did you read most what they sayd??
No its not class D. If my memory is ok, there was tube all over.
Pat
My computerbased system-
Creative X-Fi
Benchmark DAC1
4 Fenice 20a, two of them modified, BlackGates in the
power-rail, DynamiCaps-3mF-at the input, Jantzen film-
foil inductors (0.025mH), Bybee slipstream´s at the input.
The two other Fenice 20a unmodified for the surround-channels, the system is able to play 2+2+2 DVD-A
sources from Dabringhaus, Chesky etc.
Linaeum A1 with SEAS-chassis + Bybee slipstream,
DIY-subwoofer.
I´m very happy listen to Jazz and small classical music
with this configuration.
Cheers, Karl
Creative X-Fi
Benchmark DAC1
4 Fenice 20a, two of them modified, BlackGates in the
power-rail, DynamiCaps-3mF-at the input, Jantzen film-
foil inductors (0.025mH), Bybee slipstream´s at the input.
The two other Fenice 20a unmodified for the surround-channels, the system is able to play 2+2+2 DVD-A
sources from Dabringhaus, Chesky etc.
Linaeum A1 with SEAS-chassis + Bybee slipstream,
DIY-subwoofer.
I´m very happy listen to Jazz and small classical music
with this configuration.
Cheers, Karl
PC audio system.
Shuttle XPC to M-Audio Audiophile USB for USB to SPDIF duties.
Scott Nixon DAC using SLA battery to Sowter transformer volume controls.
Autocostruire T-Amp 2020 running on SLA battery. Blackgates for power decoupling, polypropylenes on input. Oil caps to try on input next.
AKG1000 headphones
This is a wonderful setup. The Autocostruire T-amp is so much better than my modded SI. Tremendous detail, balanced tonally, good bass.
My current project is a Hypex UCD180 amp to run my AKG's.
Best,
Paul
Shuttle XPC to M-Audio Audiophile USB for USB to SPDIF duties.
Scott Nixon DAC using SLA battery to Sowter transformer volume controls.
Autocostruire T-Amp 2020 running on SLA battery. Blackgates for power decoupling, polypropylenes on input. Oil caps to try on input next.
AKG1000 headphones
This is a wonderful setup. The Autocostruire T-amp is so much better than my modded SI. Tremendous detail, balanced tonally, good bass.
My current project is a Hypex UCD180 amp to run my AKG's.
Best,
Paul
Sister's System (built by me)
PC/Ipod/TV -> General Electric A/V Switch -> SI T-Amp (Stock) -> 2 youyoung's center channel TQWT Tang Band W3-871s
pro:
CHEAP. Everything built less than $100 (not including source). Sounds great for personal listening with plenty of detail (T-AMP + no crossover = DETAIL). While watching a cooking show, made me think they were cooking in my sister's room.
con:
Little bass below 60-70hz that can be remedied with a sub. With the T-Amp being a bit fatiguing and the W3-871s being a bit foward, I personally don't want to listen for extended (2-4+ hours) sessions.
pics
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=55028&perpage=10&pagenumber=8
My system (work in progress)
Laptop (AD1981B builtin dac) w/ various flac, mp3, etc media running linux, alsa, no mixing to output at 44.1 sample rate w/ xmms or mplayer to headphone output. Volume knob is set to max so volume is controlled through software -> Charlize -> (whatever speakers I have available at the time)
A work in progress (because speakers, Bob Brine's FT-1600, have not been built yet). I can't comment on it too much but it is more laid back than SI T-Amp. From what I have heard so far, efficiency of speakers makes a difference in the quality of the sound.
PC/Ipod/TV -> General Electric A/V Switch -> SI T-Amp (Stock) -> 2 youyoung's center channel TQWT Tang Band W3-871s
pro:
CHEAP. Everything built less than $100 (not including source). Sounds great for personal listening with plenty of detail (T-AMP + no crossover = DETAIL). While watching a cooking show, made me think they were cooking in my sister's room.
con:
Little bass below 60-70hz that can be remedied with a sub. With the T-Amp being a bit fatiguing and the W3-871s being a bit foward, I personally don't want to listen for extended (2-4+ hours) sessions.
pics
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=55028&perpage=10&pagenumber=8
My system (work in progress)
Laptop (AD1981B builtin dac) w/ various flac, mp3, etc media running linux, alsa, no mixing to output at 44.1 sample rate w/ xmms or mplayer to headphone output. Volume knob is set to max so volume is controlled through software -> Charlize -> (whatever speakers I have available at the time)
A work in progress (because speakers, Bob Brine's FT-1600, have not been built yet). I can't comment on it too much but it is more laid back than SI T-Amp. From what I have heard so far, efficiency of speakers makes a difference in the quality of the sound.
strange, but most pro's state that sensitivity of a loudspeaker only affects loudness, but NOT the quality of sound.
Anyhow, that's probably why the sound of my modded SI appears to be a bit flat, with overephasized highs...due to the sensitivy of my loudspeakers - 87 dB 🙁
When I say quality, I suppose I should be a bit more specific. In terms of quality, efficiency (based on two speakers) effects the presence and dynamics which to me relate to realism as if the music was there. Thinking back on my judgement though, I don't think efficiency on its own should be considered. Afterall, I only compared two speakers and one was more efficient. Perhaps the difference has more to do with complications of the load like crossovers. One speaker was more efficient because it had less cross overs (1 for a 2-way vs 2 for a 3-way). It may also deal with the drivers themselves and the enclosure designs.
Now that I think about it, the tang bands are actually less efficient than the two speakers that I am testing with the Charlize, and it can command presence and realism.
I guess I should test my Charlize with the tang bands....
Now that I think about it, the tang bands are actually less efficient than the two speakers that I am testing with the Charlize, and it can command presence and realism.
I guess I should test my Charlize with the tang bands....
Tripath TA-2020 evaluation board with DACT channel selector and DACT stepped attenuator. Regulated 13,8V 3A power supply.
Jordan JX92s TL (konus essence design), no BSC.
Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Rotel RDV-1050 DVD player, Bluenote Piccolo turntable with Goldring 1012GX cartridge and NAD PP2 phono preamp.
I listen to jazz, pop, classical, vocals and rock, TV audio is redirected to this setup.
Jordan JX92s TL (konus essence design), no BSC.
Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Rotel RDV-1050 DVD player, Bluenote Piccolo turntable with Goldring 1012GX cartridge and NAD PP2 phono preamp.
I listen to jazz, pop, classical, vocals and rock, TV audio is redirected to this setup.
I'm new to hi-fi so can't give accurate descriptions on stuff like soundstage etc. I suppose I've been somewhat of a frugalphile, over the years my system has always been better than my peers but that's not saying much.
The T-Amp arrived and my first confession is that my speaker wires fitted into the flimsy spring loaded connectors. Let's move swiftly on.... 🙁
Source is either the PC with TB Santa Cruz or AKAI AT-93. The tuner is audiophile quality and, imo, too much for the T-Amp with my vintage speakers. Bass was BOOM BOOM BOOM, all one note. The echo from the bass still going when the next note starts. Very fatiguing.
Playing from the PC I got some improvement using the TBs EQ but the significant improvement came from hooking up the T-Amp to my old Toshiba TB-404S pre-amp. This has made a world of difference. It's still a tad fatiguing, after a week or so of listening I like to have no sounds for a few hours (no TV here) whereas previously the Toshiba never got turned off. Plenty of volume. (2.5 from 10 on the Toshiba, T-Amp set to max with a PSU from an old Amstrad 486.) Best listening is zero treble, bass set to halfway. Pre T-Amp best listening was both tone controls set to zero, I can now follow bass runs etc.. Pre T-Amp I'd always hated opera, to me it was technique sans music. Since that plastic little box turned up and using the Toshibas' pre-amp I've listened to at least 4 operas on Radio 3. (Still not fussed on sopranos though, unless it's Jenny Lind.)
Some detail I can comment on, it's normal now for me to hear singers and presenters open their mouths, I'd never heard the lips open before.
I'm talking about 40 year old communist block speakers here, previously they were as woolly as a mammoth.
Class D plus vintage speakers in my case at least does seem to work.
The T-Amp arrived and my first confession is that my speaker wires fitted into the flimsy spring loaded connectors. Let's move swiftly on.... 🙁
Source is either the PC with TB Santa Cruz or AKAI AT-93. The tuner is audiophile quality and, imo, too much for the T-Amp with my vintage speakers. Bass was BOOM BOOM BOOM, all one note. The echo from the bass still going when the next note starts. Very fatiguing.
Playing from the PC I got some improvement using the TBs EQ but the significant improvement came from hooking up the T-Amp to my old Toshiba TB-404S pre-amp. This has made a world of difference. It's still a tad fatiguing, after a week or so of listening I like to have no sounds for a few hours (no TV here) whereas previously the Toshiba never got turned off. Plenty of volume. (2.5 from 10 on the Toshiba, T-Amp set to max with a PSU from an old Amstrad 486.) Best listening is zero treble, bass set to halfway. Pre T-Amp best listening was both tone controls set to zero, I can now follow bass runs etc.. Pre T-Amp I'd always hated opera, to me it was technique sans music. Since that plastic little box turned up and using the Toshibas' pre-amp I've listened to at least 4 operas on Radio 3. (Still not fussed on sopranos though, unless it's Jenny Lind.)
Some detail I can comment on, it's normal now for me to hear singers and presenters open their mouths, I'd never heard the lips open before.
I'm talking about 40 year old communist block speakers here, previously they were as woolly as a mammoth.
Class D plus vintage speakers in my case at least does seem to work.
This might be a good place for my question:
How efficient are your speakers? How efficient do they need to be? Michael Mardis' awesome T-amp site says that "average music power" below clipping is only 1/8 w RMS. I'm building a stereo setup from scratch (been listening to headphones all my life) here for my dorm/apartment. I listen at low-volume, small room, ect. What kind of efficiency should I look for? I see speakers numbers like "87 db/m" and I'm not sure how loud that'd be with a t-amp cranked halfway up.
While I'm at it, any very inexpensive setups to recommend, given what I've said so far. I'm running off of a decent computer soundcard into a "stealth modded" t-amp. Using thrift-store speakers for testing at this point. I guess I should take advantage of the LFE output on my soundcard and look into a small powered subwoofer here as well...
How efficient are your speakers? How efficient do they need to be? Michael Mardis' awesome T-amp site says that "average music power" below clipping is only 1/8 w RMS. I'm building a stereo setup from scratch (been listening to headphones all my life) here for my dorm/apartment. I listen at low-volume, small room, ect. What kind of efficiency should I look for? I see speakers numbers like "87 db/m" and I'm not sure how loud that'd be with a t-amp cranked halfway up.
While I'm at it, any very inexpensive setups to recommend, given what I've said so far. I'm running off of a decent computer soundcard into a "stealth modded" t-amp. Using thrift-store speakers for testing at this point. I guess I should take advantage of the LFE output on my soundcard and look into a small powered subwoofer here as well...
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