I'm looking to replace a CS8412-CS IC in a Linn AV5103 but am having the run-around in terms of finding a reasonably priced and trusted source for these.
One option I'm considering is to look for a scrap PCB, not necessarily Linn, that has one or more CS8412-CS ICs?
Hopefully someone has such a PCB - please send me a Private Message if you can help?
One option I'm considering is to look for a scrap PCB, not necessarily Linn, that has one or more CS8412-CS ICs?
Hopefully someone has such a PCB - please send me a Private Message if you can help?
Thanks Tarasque.
I’m looking for a CS8412-CS and don’t know if the CS8412-CP is compatible?
The -CS is in SMD package whereas the -CP is in DIP, so that is not a match. However, the CS8414 should be pin-compatible with the CS8412, so you can probably broaden your search to include the CS8414CS as well.
Thanks Nisbeth for clarifying the -CS vs -CP question.The -CS is in SMD package whereas the -CP is in DIP, so that is not a match. However, the CS8414 should be pin-compatible with the CS8412, so you can probably broaden your search to include the CS8414CS as well.
I've checked the data sheet for the CS8414-CS and it seems compatible - anything else that I need to check?
Not sure about availability but I found a new/unused CS8414-CS in ESD safe packaging. CS8414 is pin compatible with CS8412. Both are typical 200 ps jitter 🙂 I recall CS8414 being slightly better with regards to locking and it speaks 24/96. WM8804 would be a more optimal choice but it is difficult to implement when the SOIC version of CS8412 is used.
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I don't think so. I did exactly this replacement myself, but it is probably 15 years ago now. As far as I remember the 8414 just dropped straight in, but no guarantees because it has been a while...I've checked the data sheet for the CS8414-CS and it seems compatible - anything else that I need to check?
It took a while but... the PLL cap-resistor combo at pin 20 should be changed to CS8414 recommended values (470 Ohm - 68 nF). So 1 IC and 2 passive parts.
I know I have a CS8412 chip available. Also may have the CS8414. They are interchangeable in my TDA1541A setup. The CS-8414 gets me to 96khz while the CS-8412 was 48khz. CS-8414 has better jitter numbers...
My problem is basically that one of the CS8412-CS ICs has lost both it’s leg and pad for Pin 6!
The data sheet says:-
‘E0, E1, E2 - Error Condition, PINS 4-6.Encoded error information that is enabled by bringing SEL low. The error codes are prioritizedand latched so that the error code displayed is the highest level of error since the last clearingof the error pins. Clearing is accomplished by bringing SEL high for more than 8 MCK cycles.’
Way over my head … !
Basic question - will the pre-amp run with this damaged IC (Pin 6)?
The data sheet says:-
‘E0, E1, E2 - Error Condition, PINS 4-6.Encoded error information that is enabled by bringing SEL low. The error codes are prioritizedand latched so that the error code displayed is the highest level of error since the last clearingof the error pins. Clearing is accomplished by bringing SEL high for more than 8 MCK cycles.’
Way over my head … !
Basic question - will the pre-amp run with this damaged IC (Pin 6)?
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Wow I have never seen a CS8412 loosing a leg and an pad in the wild just like that.
Please use a fresh quality micro side cutter and carefully cut all the pins. It only works with the right angle sharp side cutters for electronics like the Knipex ones. After cutting remove the pins with desoldering braid. First do that and then we'll see what the damage is.
Please use a fresh quality micro side cutter and carefully cut all the pins. It only works with the right angle sharp side cutters for electronics like the Knipex ones. After cutting remove the pins with desoldering braid. First do that and then we'll see what the damage is.
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Thanks jean-Paul - I have some decent quality side cutters (not Knipex).Wow I have never seen a CS8412 loosing a leg and an pad in the wild just like that.
Please use a fresh quality micro side cutter and carefully cut all the pins. It only works with the right angle strap side cutters for electronics like the Knipex ones. After cutting remove the pins with desoldering braid. First do that and then we'll see what the damage is.
I can’t see where the pad for Pin 6 is connected so I’m hoping all will be revealed once the IC is removed?
I just thought that "old Padawan" would not make you smile 😀
What I meant is that loosing a pin probably means you will loose a few others. Since the IC is kaputt it must go anyway regardless of possible PCB damage. Work fast and tidy with a not too high temperature set.
What I meant is that loosing a pin probably means you will loose a few others. Since the IC is kaputt it must go anyway regardless of possible PCB damage. Work fast and tidy with a not too high temperature set.