I'll set the upper end of the budget at $15 each. I'll upgrade to NOS Jupiter PIOs or oil cans later if I feel the need to extract a little more performance out of the amp.
I'm currently considering the Mundorf RXF, Obbligato Gold Premium, or the Mundorf RXF-Oils.
Out of the three above, which one sounds better or is the most transparent?
Are there any others in the $15 or less range that I should consider?
I'm planning to build the 6GK5 version with either a SS PS or a hybrid SS like JCM's Silbatone rectification scheme. OPTs will be either Edcor 8.6Ks or custom SumRs at 9K.
I'm currently considering the Mundorf RXF, Obbligato Gold Premium, or the Mundorf RXF-Oils.
Out of the three above, which one sounds better or is the most transparent?
Are there any others in the $15 or less range that I should consider?
I'm planning to build the 6GK5 version with either a SS PS or a hybrid SS like JCM's Silbatone rectification scheme. OPTs will be either Edcor 8.6Ks or custom SumRs at 9K.
Russian teflons (Ebay) for around $6/ea. if you have the space.
I'm running .22/600V Auricaps in my 6GK5/EL34 MM, and I'm very happy with it, although I have not tried anything else. I have some Russian Teflons, but there is little room left under the hood and they are big.
I breadboarded the amp with the Russian Teflons, and they sounded great as well, but I didn't do much critical listening since it had a fair amount of hum.
Just my 2 cents, but I use Russian .22 1000V PIO caps in parallel with .056 600V teflon for coupling in my 6GK5 Machine and I like it a lot. At least at one time Poinz said the 10K Silk was about as good as it gets for an output trannie for this amp and again, I'm happy with that choice. This is a wonderful amp for my Lowthers.
If you want rhythmical correctness never use caps in parallel! If you add a small cap to a big cap you will change the speed and the texture of the highs. It is only good for caps sounding difficult in the highs like Solen.
The Obbligato Golds are rather warm & transparent. The Russian teflons are very smooth & detailed but lacking in authority & real bass. The Obbligato Copper case caps are VERY detailed and analytical - dangerous stuff. Mundorfs are very transparent, neutral and speedy.
Personally I prefer the bullet proof, anti-nazi, north pole & atomic-bomb proof Russian K75-10 or K75-24 hybrid caps. They are =H_U_G_E=. Rather warm but also transparent showing myriads of textures never ever heard before. A slight tendency to rose tinted glass. I'm totally addicted to this stuff and love them eternally
, even the Mundorf Sliver PIO's had to go... Even bad sounding CD's are listenable now.
The Obbligato Golds are rather warm & transparent. The Russian teflons are very smooth & detailed but lacking in authority & real bass. The Obbligato Copper case caps are VERY detailed and analytical - dangerous stuff. Mundorfs are very transparent, neutral and speedy.
Personally I prefer the bullet proof, anti-nazi, north pole & atomic-bomb proof Russian K75-10 or K75-24 hybrid caps. They are =H_U_G_E=. Rather warm but also transparent showing myriads of textures never ever heard before. A slight tendency to rose tinted glass. I'm totally addicted to this stuff and love them eternally
, even the Mundorf Sliver PIO's had to go... Even bad sounding CD's are listenable now.
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Poinz uses Jenson Caps you can get them form Sophia electric but there $30 each so $15 over what you want to spend.
Why did you go with .22 and not the .33 that poinz uses? that affects the low cut off frequency right? does it put it below 20hz.
Just use a good quality Hermetically sealed PIO like the K40Y-9
K75 were intended for PSU/mains filtering --thats why they are marked, 50Hz....
All the others are just audiofoolery IMHO....
K75 were intended for PSU/mains filtering --thats why they are marked, 50Hz....
All the others are just audiofoolery IMHO....
FWIW, PTFE film has reputation for transparancy and requiring extensive run in time.
Soviet surplus, either PIO or PTFE, is where the value can be found.
Soviet surplus, either PIO or PTFE, is where the value can be found.
I got auricaps in my PP 6V6 and I do like them. Poinz was not super impressed with them however and is IS the man
what about some nice sonicaps? I have never tried the Russian stuff.
what about some nice sonicaps? I have never tried the Russian stuff.
Actually, I misspoke Mark. I use two of the .22 PIO and one of the Teflon, a little bigger than Poinz recommended.
Thanks guys. Now I'm intrigued to try the Obbligato Golds, just to hear them. I have VitQs in .18 and .22 IIRC, but I think they are only rated for 100V. I do like big oil cans too; however, I'll probably start with the Obbligatos, then grab the RXF-Oils and oil cans too.
I am glad to see that the Obbligato Golds aren't harsh or too bright. I'll be using the triode 6V6 MM with 50R and 60R headphones too, so those negative properties really become critical.
I'm planning to build a second MM with 7591As and I'll probably add the option to flip between triode and pentode mode. I'll definitely try which cap isn't in the 6V6 MM first, but I'll have to swap the others in for auditions.
Space shouldn't be too critical. I'll be installing at least one MM in a repurposed Hallicrafters receiver chassis that is quite large and I can put the rectangular style oil cans underneath the sub-chassis if I have to.
I am glad to see that the Obbligato Golds aren't harsh or too bright. I'll be using the triode 6V6 MM with 50R and 60R headphones too, so those negative properties really become critical.
I'm planning to build a second MM with 7591As and I'll probably add the option to flip between triode and pentode mode. I'll definitely try which cap isn't in the 6V6 MM first, but I'll have to swap the others in for auditions.
Space shouldn't be too critical. I'll be installing at least one MM in a repurposed Hallicrafters receiver chassis that is quite large and I can put the rectangular style oil cans underneath the sub-chassis if I have to.
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In the 6V6MM, there is a 0,33uF coupling cap. in the EL34MM it is 0,22.
HornTube-"If you want rhythmical correctness never use caps in parallel! If you add a small cap to a big cap you will change the speed and the texture of the highs. It is only good for caps sounding difficult in the highs like Solen."
Can you point me to source material discussing, and or data. Seems that I see it as a common practice, to buddy up caps.
SBE Orange Drop series 716P.
Polypropylene dielectric, film & foil (not metallized), extended foil.
Air, pace, soundstage, holographic Life Energy focus, feng shui, all that.
$1.00 each. 🙂
Polypropylene dielectric, film & foil (not metallized), extended foil.
Air, pace, soundstage, holographic Life Energy focus, feng shui, all that.
$1.00 each. 🙂
Wait a minute... 6V6GTs, Orange Drops... Are you sure you didn't just build a stereo guitar amp? 😀
I'm sure I have some vintage Orange Drops too, but not sure of their values.
With Jensen caps the sound-stage will get narrow but deep - not every ones taste. Always easy on the ear & enjoyable. But why pay so much for them, the Russian caps are better and MUCH cheaper!
Thanks Horn. My headphones that I will use with this amp already have a narrow stage, so I definitely want to avoid making it smaller. I really appreciate that feedback.
I think the Internet is full of discussions about this topic, and also here at diyAudio.
The most horrific mistakes:
1. A big cap is slow. Some engineers parallel smaller caps (PSU) to get more speed with devastating effects on sound quality. Thee is no such thing as "2 identical caps".
2. Some try to "better" even good el-caps like ELNA or EPCOS with parallel film/foil caps creating discrepancies between the upper and lower frequencies. The loss of rhythmical integrity is obvious cos the effect of the small caps on the upper freq. is much higher.
On short term listening you will notice more speed, detail and tightness but on long term listening you will notice the lack of natural warmth and rhythm and worst of all: The highs standing out like they were belonging to another recording. Just solder them out and listen again...
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Works wonders on caps (parallel) sounding distorted in the highs like Solen or Hovland. They sound very detailed, clear and energetic and fast as lightening but they do lack on weight and bass slam with a slight tendency of nasal sounding mids/upper-mids. If you will opposite to Auricaps with their overly warmth mids, woody bass and lack of speed & detail.
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WtF???
What I suggest is to take a PIO and drill two holes one at each end.
Stand vertically and via a funnel arrangement (patent up for grabs) leach out existing oil, then you can experiment with different oils, maybe Virgin Olive for that smooth moment, or maybe something synthetic for a bit of Rock.
My take on this is the Total Loss Lubrication system found on Steam Engine Journals, LandRovers and Vintage British Bikes.
This could lead to a whole new cottage industry, maybe we should recharge the oil by some 'fast charge' system before embarking on a listening 'experience' maybe the age of the chosen oil has an influence? - new oil like a young wine is 'Brash' has different nuances to an oil of some substance and age.
What I suggest is to take a PIO and drill two holes one at each end.
Stand vertically and via a funnel arrangement (patent up for grabs) leach out existing oil, then you can experiment with different oils, maybe Virgin Olive for that smooth moment, or maybe something synthetic for a bit of Rock.
My take on this is the Total Loss Lubrication system found on Steam Engine Journals, LandRovers and Vintage British Bikes.
This could lead to a whole new cottage industry, maybe we should recharge the oil by some 'fast charge' system before embarking on a listening 'experience' maybe the age of the chosen oil has an influence? - new oil like a young wine is 'Brash' has different nuances to an oil of some substance and age.
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