I am looking at a couple of sub amps and was wondering which one has more bang for the buck? I am looking at Kicker, Fosgate, Kenwood and maybe Hifonics. I am looking at there class D @ 1200+ watts. Thanks...Polo..🙂
They all are reliable manufactures. I once hade a Kenwood PS 400M hookes up to 2 JL 12W6's and the power this thing put out at 1 1/2 Ohms way outragious. But try to find one in good condition these days.
RF T 1000 can be a good choice...
as well as Hifonics Gen XX Hercules (don't like the Brutus, the bass too over "rough") but if you looking for 1200 watt, BX 1205 D do just fine.
Hmm maybe Orion 1200D can be a good choice too 🙂
Kicker SX 1250.1...very best choice 🙂
as well as Hifonics Gen XX Hercules (don't like the Brutus, the bass too over "rough") but if you looking for 1200 watt, BX 1205 D do just fine.
Hmm maybe Orion 1200D can be a good choice too 🙂
Kicker SX 1250.1...very best choice 🙂
Right now I have a PG x1200.1 and I really like it (under reapair) and I haven't found anyrthing close to being built like it. This amp uses two huge transformers, several caps and weighs like 20lbs. I understand that a lot of people do not care for them anymore since they went mass produced but to me the quality seem s to still be there. Now in the past I was always an Orion fan, great amps but do the new ones really perform? I mentioned the Kenwood because the newer class Ds look cool but are they catching up to the big boys? Now Kicker from what I have heard always has performed nicely but how do they sound, does the bass sound hard or is it warm but firm, lol? Oh if I get a Kicker 1200.1 I might a well buy a 2400.1 because to me the extra power for the money but do I need something extreme as far as battery power? Thanks for any and all answers. Polo.😉
What kind and how many subs are thinking of?
Actually extra batteries are only for motor off time.
At the most a big cap will do or if the voltage still dips to much a bigger alternator should help, but usually just a 60amp alternator at higher RPM'S is usually enough to keep you around 14 volts.
Paul
Actually extra batteries are only for motor off time.
At the most a big cap will do or if the voltage still dips to much a bigger alternator should help, but usually just a 60amp alternator at higher RPM'S is usually enough to keep you around 14 volts.
Paul
Well, I have three PIIs and was thinking of adding a fourth but maybe PIIIs. Will two of those 3" excursion subs put out MORE bass than what I have now or does the inch rule still come into play? I am open to suggestions, Polo..😀
mr old school : hmm part of my experience said that big caps actually useless....it will only make you alternator works harder and harder , it will be more valuable if you invest in bigger alternators and some deep cycle dry batteries (i would reccomend Die Hard, Exide Batteries)
safe cracker : i think it would be best if you bought 2 KX 1200.1 than 1 2500.1 🙂 because kicker 2500 can't play with 1 ohm load (still need confirmation here). And What you need is the one who would show stopping with power @ 1 ohm. (ur P2, bridged parallel build up to 2 ohms, find another 4 ohm DVC P3 to more bass 🙂 ).
with that u should find a 600+400/500. a kicker 1200.1 would be just fine. but if i may reccomend, take something into 1500.1 or put another 1200.1 (@ 1 ohm) amps to the PIIIs (in case u r using 2 PII + 2 PIII)
if you want more bass, try different enclosure method, find ported or maybe slotted to put up more bass 😀
safe cracker : i think it would be best if you bought 2 KX 1200.1 than 1 2500.1 🙂 because kicker 2500 can't play with 1 ohm load (still need confirmation here). And What you need is the one who would show stopping with power @ 1 ohm. (ur P2, bridged parallel build up to 2 ohms, find another 4 ohm DVC P3 to more bass 🙂 ).
with that u should find a 600+400/500. a kicker 1200.1 would be just fine. but if i may reccomend, take something into 1500.1 or put another 1200.1 (@ 1 ohm) amps to the PIIIs (in case u r using 2 PII + 2 PIII)
if you want more bass, try different enclosure method, find ported or maybe slotted to put up more bass 😀
Ok, cool. I am willing to get rid of the existing subs all together just was wondering which would give more bass, two 3" excursion 15inch subs or 3-4 PIII subs. I do have 3 PII subs already but I am looking for MORE bass. I don't think adding a fourth PII sub will do it but before I add more subs I would be interested in doing it with less if possible. Now is the total amount of bass produced dependant on the total surface area of each sub or can you get the same air movement out of two subs with huge excursions? The funny thing about my car is (Pontiac Grans Prix GTP) is that I started out with a bandpass box, two 15s and the bass was not impressing at all, like the car was sucking up the energy so to speak. I moved to a sealed enclosure and the whole car came alive. I would like to systems in other GPs but haven't seen any yet. Polo..🙂
hmm if you want the air movement i think it would be better if you use 2 long throw 15" subs (maybe the ones from RE or Adire?) than 3-4 12" P3s.
it goes with vd max i think : the cone surface times (oh man i forgot --')
or if you want more try RE MT the 18" ones 😀😀😀😀
and feed them with a nice power maybe zapco's 4kW or any other with 4kW or more will do. i'd reccomend ground zero (maybe mr. old school knows this brand better, because it's german)
www.ground-zero-audio.com
dont use the bandpass because the bandpass tends to give larger error rate at most cars and for the bass , you would prefer something that have port 🙂 use slotted (square port), no need for large watt to produce some large bass 😀
it goes with vd max i think : the cone surface times (oh man i forgot --')
or if you want more try RE MT the 18" ones 😀😀😀😀
and feed them with a nice power maybe zapco's 4kW or any other with 4kW or more will do. i'd reccomend ground zero (maybe mr. old school knows this brand better, because it's german)
www.ground-zero-audio.com
dont use the bandpass because the bandpass tends to give larger error rate at most cars and for the bass , you would prefer something that have port 🙂 use slotted (square port), no need for large watt to produce some large bass 😀
We do not want to off track to much, But from what I THINK I know is that the more batteries you have the more strain you put on the alternator trying to keep zhem charged.
Now think about what a cap does and how it works. It is made to deliver fast burst of power to the amps that the charging system in the car cannot do.
Hense the dimming lights when the bass is up high. When the cap is applied this should stop because it is delivering the necessary power SAVED inside the cap.
This should be the last post on this cap, battery subject. If we wish to discuss it further we should start a new thread.
Paul
Now think about what a cap does and how it works. It is made to deliver fast burst of power to the amps that the charging system in the car cannot do.
Hense the dimming lights when the bass is up high. When the cap is applied this should stop because it is delivering the necessary power SAVED inside the cap.
This should be the last post on this cap, battery subject. If we wish to discuss it further we should start a new thread.
Paul
I myself believe a battery isolation system puts a greater strain on the alternator. I woud prefer to use an over sized deep cycle marine battery and a larger alternator. You need to make sure that all connections that draw power are at the same junction in order to draw evenly, most cars do not do this that is why the lights dim. Now with the caps it is all dependant on the quantity and quality. More caps the better I believe (to a point) because an amp will only use a certain amount of that capacity but where it really counts is how fast they refresh or charge so to speak. JMHO... Polo..😀
Ok, while I repair my PG X1200.1 I decided on the KICKER SX1250.1. Man this thing will even kiss you @ss if you asked it to. It even has a digital interface remote, gotta get it, lol. Polo..😀
If you are looking at an amp that will deliver that sort of power, and that will be able to run a 1ohm load, then i would suggest looking into a digital designs M1 amp. It is rated to put out 600Watts rms at a 4ohm load at 0.3%THD, and around the 1500mark when running at 14.4Volts and at 5%THD. I've got one in my car...and it really is an awesome amp
http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/amp/
Now it may seem like it's not a very powerfull amp from the specs...but they underrated it for comp reasons. It give you an edge if you can sneak into the class bellow you...and thrash everyone coz you've really got a much more powerfull amp! Anyway, just thought i'd let you know about an awesome option that seems to fit what you're looking for.
Peace
http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/amp/
Now it may seem like it's not a very powerfull amp from the specs...but they underrated it for comp reasons. It give you an edge if you can sneak into the class bellow you...and thrash everyone coz you've really got a much more powerfull amp! Anyway, just thought i'd let you know about an awesome option that seems to fit what you're looking for.
Peace
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