I am considering these drivers and wondered what would be the best options, compatibility-wise.
TIA
TIA
There are many other drivers I would also consider before those ones.
To answer your question, basically any Firstwatt design biased appropriately.
It will depend on your taste more than anything.
To answer your question, basically any Firstwatt design biased appropriately.
It will depend on your taste more than anything.
There are many other drivers I would also consider before those ones.
To answer your question, basically any Firstwatt design biased appropriately.
It will depend on your taste more than anything.
Thank you.
Amp-wise, I was thinking that a PP, for example, would be preferable, given the impedance.
What would you suggest as alternatives in the 8", decent Xmax, 94dB SPL+ sensitivity segment?
Audio nirvana classic 8" with ferrite magnet for boxed speaker. For open baffle the Alnico version or Ferrite version.
Fostex make some nice full range drivers.
Lowther Pm6a are good but not the best value for money.
You don't need push pull on a full range driver, the amp just needs to be biased appropriately.
An Aleph J type circuit biased around 2.6A instead of the standard 2A would be ok.
If you want push pull and already have a very nice preamp then probably F4.
Otherwise F6 or M2.
Fostex make some nice full range drivers.
Lowther Pm6a are good but not the best value for money.
You don't need push pull on a full range driver, the amp just needs to be biased appropriately.
An Aleph J type circuit biased around 2.6A instead of the standard 2A would be ok.
If you want push pull and already have a very nice preamp then probably F4.
Otherwise F6 or M2.
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Check First Watt amplifier comparison chart
FIRST WATT PRODUCTS
look at output power difference with 4 ohm drivers
My vote M2 ,SIT-3 Diy kit or DEF amplifier project in near future see BAF 2017 edition
FIRST WATT PRODUCTS
look at output power difference with 4 ohm drivers

My vote M2 ,SIT-3 Diy kit or DEF amplifier project in near future see BAF 2017 edition
My worry is that the AN will not hit 93 dB @ 100 Hz due to the very low Xmax (1 mm).Audio nirvana classic 8" with ferrite magnet for boxed speaker. For open baffle the Alnico version or Ferrite version.
Fostex make some nice full range drivers.
Lowther Pm6a are good but not the best value for money.
You don't need push pull on a full range driver, the amp just needs to be biased appropriately.
An Aleph J type circuit biased around 2.6A instead of the standard 2A would be ok.
If you want push pull and already have a very nice preamp then probably F4.
Otherwise F6 or M2.
They easily hit those frequencies.
The small x max design is part of the reason why they are so good.
You could always go to 10" if you are still worried.
The small x max design is part of the reason why they are so good.
You could always go to 10" if you are still worried.
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You can find F6 build is interesting too :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/311281-f6-kit-chassis.html#post5161149
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/311281-f6-kit-chassis.html#post5161149
If the much cheaper FA22 is any indication then the SEAS Exotic should be really good. Like the FA22 they work nicely in a biggish sealed box.
My experience with current Audio Nirvana is limited to the 10” Ferrite and i’d easily choose FA22 over them. Lowthers are hard to get any bass out of, the Fostex F200A (or the ferrite version) are no longer available, the FE206 needs a horn and needs work, the FF225wk needs a tweeter, i have a pr but haven’t heard them yet.
The only downside of the SEAS Exotic — at least to me — is that they are quite pricey.
dave
My experience with current Audio Nirvana is limited to the 10” Ferrite and i’d easily choose FA22 over them. Lowthers are hard to get any bass out of, the Fostex F200A (or the ferrite version) are no longer available, the FE206 needs a horn and needs work, the FF225wk needs a tweeter, i have a pr but haven’t heard them yet.
The only downside of the SEAS Exotic — at least to me — is that they are quite pricey.
dave
Bastanis widebanders might do...My worry is that the AN will not hit 93 dB @ 100 Hz due to the very low Xmax (1 mm).
These still work out to quasi 3-ways with a helper sub and tweeter + cap "on top".
I will look at the 10". I realize the 8"will hit 100 Hz, it maxes out (in its linear range) at <93 dB, however.They easily hit those frequencies.
The small x max design is part of the reason why they are so good.
You could always go to 10" if you are still worried.
Attachments
I will reconsider it but had initially rejected the SAL due to its 5.1" diameter.
I will reconsider it but had initially rejected the SAL due to its 5.1" diameter.
Tip_85
Ok you mean 6.5 " 🙂
No, I mean 5.1". I got the SD data from the manufacturer and did the math. I am interested in the actual, not the nominal diameter, as the latter isn't useful in any performance calculations. (The Exotic is about 6.6", 1.7x larger SD. I realized I jumped around on definition a little.)
No, I mean 5.1". I got the SD data from the manufacturer and did the math. I am interested in the actual, not the nominal diameter, as the latter isn't useful in any performance calculations. (The Exotic is about 6.6", 1.7x larger SD. I realized I jumped around on definition a little.)
Stay in tune if you are interested by active filters and equal for FR.
Papa is design new "toys": FIRST WATT WATT'S NEW
Kindest regards

No, I mean 5.1". I got the SD data from the manufacturer and did the math. I am interested in the actual, not the nominal diameter, as the latter isn't useful in any performance calculations. (The Exotic is about 6.6", 1.7x larger SD. I realized I jumped around on definition a little.)
Always best to talk about nominal sizes, otherwise you start confusing people.
dave
Nice to see this in writing - part of the reason I got some JFETSs...Stay in tune if you are interested by active filters and equal for FR.
Papa is design new "toys": FIRST WATT WATT'S NEW
Kindest regards![]()
I agree that there might be some confusion, but the driver was identified by name, so not that much, hopefully.Always best to talk about nominal sizes, otherwise you start confusing people.
dave
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With more thought, I believe that the actual diameter is really the only sensible metric once one gets into a detailed analysis, as there can be rather big divergences between how the manufacturers rate their drivers.Always best to talk about nominal sizes, otherwise you start confusing people.
dave
For example, the MarkAudio Alpair 12P is described as an 8" driver yet has an effective diameter of only 5 3/8". The 8" SEAS is more than 50% larger in area.
Which spec is more confusing?
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