I recieved two free subwoofer drivers from a friend. Through a lot of searching, I got the manufacturer and they sent me these specs...
Fs= 16 Hz
VAS= 8.1 ft^3
Qts= 0.208
Qes= 0.217
Sd= 51.1 in^2
xmax= 0.23 in
Znom= 4 ohm
DCres= 3.6 ohm
PMax= 200W RMS
I have one suggestion of a sealed 1-2 ft^3 cabinet with a 120W plate amp.
What would you build with this for music and minimal HT?
Fs= 16 Hz
VAS= 8.1 ft^3
Qts= 0.208
Qes= 0.217
Sd= 51.1 in^2
xmax= 0.23 in
Znom= 4 ohm
DCres= 3.6 ohm
PMax= 200W RMS
I have one suggestion of a sealed 1-2 ft^3 cabinet with a 120W plate amp.
What would you build with this for music and minimal HT?
The Vas is quite high, I would build a cabinet larger than that if you can. Those are 10 inchers?
Parameters seems wrong, or efficiency is really low... Xmax is low also...
Good luck!
Parameters seems wrong, or efficiency is really low... Xmax is low also...
Good luck!
One...or two?
Volenti...think it would be okay to make two single driver subs. Maybe one per side (in a big room), or for use in two different systems?
I don't need anything to shake the house...just the filling in of the lower registers for a fuller sound.
Thanks for the help!
Volenti...think it would be okay to make two single driver subs. Maybe one per side (in a big room), or for use in two different systems?
I don't need anything to shake the house...just the filling in of the lower registers for a fuller sound.
Thanks for the help!
What are you crossing them to?
Are you going to use amplifier bass management to cross to them?
Or do you have pre-out / power in on your amplifier, so you can put an active crossover in there?
Are you going to use amplifier bass management to cross to them?
Or do you have pre-out / power in on your amplifier, so you can put an active crossover in there?
I would just be using a plate amp to start. So, onboard, no active crossover...yet. That would be down the road. Maybe I will use one driver for the plate amp setup. Then hold one for playing with an outboard amp and active crossover setup.
What I was getting at was integrating it with your other speakers. How low do they go?
I've never tried simply adding a sub on top of an existing system (because I've always had an AV amp with bass management).
If this is a replacement sub in a sub/satt system I suppose it is a straight swap.
I've never tried simply adding a sub on top of an existing system (because I've always had an AV amp with bass management).
If this is a replacement sub in a sub/satt system I suppose it is a straight swap.
Sorry...misunderstood for my part.
The existing speakers go down to 70Hz. It is not replacing another sub. This would be the first in the system.
The existing speakers go down to 70Hz. It is not replacing another sub. This would be the first in the system.
and can you put a crossover in between your current pre/power amp?
I'm thinking dual sealed subs, active stereo crossover: >200Hz to existing amplifier <200Hz + Linkwitz Transform to new plate amps or chip amps.
That'll be about as 'musical' as you can get.
I'm thinking dual sealed subs, active stereo crossover: >200Hz to existing amplifier <200Hz + Linkwitz Transform to new plate amps or chip amps.
That'll be about as 'musical' as you can get.
jimbo1968 said:and can you put a crossover in between your current pre/power amp?
I'm thinking dual sealed subs, active stereo crossover: >200Hz to existing amplifier <200Hz + Linkwitz Transform to new plate amps or chip amps.
That'll be about as 'musical' as you can get.
That sounds like a plan. Now...what box volume? I was looking at 2 cuft at the largest, but the SAF would go up with smaller boxes 🙂.
LT does let a smaller box work. But, as I am going to take some time (finances) to get that portion done, I might have to make a compromise...but a 1 cuft box would be okay to get me by for a while, I think.
Then, when the LT is in line, I'll be good to go. think that will work?
Then, when the LT is in line, I'll be good to go. think that will work?
plugging given parameters in DPC you get:
Qm=5.02
Cms=1.510 (not very stiff)
BL=10.5
Mms=65.52
Spl 2.83V=91.5dB
hey Croat does your nick have any relation to my country?
Qm=5.02
Cms=1.510 (not very stiff)
BL=10.5
Mms=65.52
Spl 2.83V=91.5dB
hey Croat does your nick have any relation to my country?
Tomac said:plugging given parameters in DPC you get:
Qm=5.02
Cms=1.510 (not very stiff)
BL=10.5
Mms=65.52
Spl 2.83V=91.5dB
hey Croat does your nick have any relation to my country?
Thanks for the numbers. What would you suggest building?
Yep. Last name is Micetich. My paternal grandmother is a 2nd Generation Croat from Poland. Still have the original Ellis Island forms. It's a strong and proud line in my family. (The maternal side is German.) A former croat co-worker actually passed through the "town" of Misetic on his last visit home. Will visit someday as I have heard it is a beautiful country.
Again; Thanks!
Presently, the house can not handle it. But, do you have a good reference link for info about IB subs? I've seen IB full range, but not subs. Thanks!
Not much is right. I am partial to the transient responses of a sealed enclosure and the info I got suggests a few sealed enclosure models up to 2cuft. It also gave possible outcomes for an infinite baffle.
Think I am okay for an IB application if I can get the SAF up? Where could I look for info about building them? Thanks!
Think I am okay for an IB application if I can get the SAF up? Where could I look for info about building them? Thanks!
It's built...
Well, I built a 1.5 cuft box, tuned to ~31Hz (~9" port, 3" diameter).
It seems to fill in nicely, but I seem to think it gets honky. It's not a fantastic driver, so I wonder if that is the problem. It also is SPL limited as it is only one 10" driver....no chest compression. But as not the point, I'm okay with that. It is also not completely sealed on one side....just clamped for testing it out,
Any suggestions on the honkiness? The port is more than 1-diameter from any other surface.
Regards,
Aaron
Well, I built a 1.5 cuft box, tuned to ~31Hz (~9" port, 3" diameter).
It seems to fill in nicely, but I seem to think it gets honky. It's not a fantastic driver, so I wonder if that is the problem. It also is SPL limited as it is only one 10" driver....no chest compression. But as not the point, I'm okay with that. It is also not completely sealed on one side....just clamped for testing it out,
Any suggestions on the honkiness? The port is more than 1-diameter from any other surface.
Regards,
Aaron
Congrats on the build.
Try putting a little stuffing in the port. Use the other sock that wasn't stolen by the dryer.
Try putting a little stuffing in the port. Use the other sock that wasn't stolen by the dryer.
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