Just got a pair of Eminence Alpha 10A
A Facebay score but I will use the boxes these came in for something else probably.
I've not much experience with Pro drivers and could use some advice on where to cross these and how low would be best suited to a medium sized sealed box.
Eminence give a range of 8 to 12 litres but how big is too big?
All wild conjecture will be read, some may even be acted on. I don't have any big speaker stands so a box loaded with a couple of cheap 12s may be made to sit the Eminence on and maybe I can use my big tweeter here?
A Facebay score but I will use the boxes these came in for something else probably.
I've not much experience with Pro drivers and could use some advice on where to cross these and how low would be best suited to a medium sized sealed box.
Eminence give a range of 8 to 12 litres but how big is too big?
All wild conjecture will be read, some may even be acted on. I don't have any big speaker stands so a box loaded with a couple of cheap 12s may be made to sit the Eminence on and maybe I can use my big tweeter here?
Pro drivers tend to be higher sensitivity and higher fs. Where multi-subs are to be used, it's ok to ignore the lower octaves and not use too big a box. The same could be said where higher power is needed.
You can follow Eminence recommendation 😉
It is a versatile driver, you can use it as a mid, mid-woofer. The sensitivity is high 95dB, make sure your big tweeter has enough sensitivity, if go to a 2 ways. In 3 ways you attenuate it.
For a sealed box used as mid 9L is a minimal size, just the volume of the driver. Go to at least 12L, better linearity, for the high frequency depend on your tweeter, cross it at the lower it can go
Enjoy !
It is a versatile driver, you can use it as a mid, mid-woofer. The sensitivity is high 95dB, make sure your big tweeter has enough sensitivity, if go to a 2 ways. In 3 ways you attenuate it.
For a sealed box used as mid 9L is a minimal size, just the volume of the driver. Go to at least 12L, better linearity, for the high frequency depend on your tweeter, cross it at the lower it can go
Enjoy !
Tweeter has a very small wave guide. 50mm wide only This is an experiment in progress and I'm waiting for the Ferro fluid to arrive but without the FF the Fs is 670Hz and a 32mm voicecoil can handle a few more watts I assume.
Minimum second order and maybe third if needs be but I prefer the simple options
Minimum second order and maybe third if needs be but I prefer the simple options
Attachments
I vaguely remember this Eminence Alpha 10A driver:
https://eminence.com/products/alpha_10a
IIRC, it was used in Wayne Parham's 2 and 3 Pi speakers in different sized reflex boxes.
You might use a small coil, say 0.5 mH on the bass to correct the rising output. And a Vifa DX25 high output 4 ohm tweeter with a mere 10uF or so capacitor and a 15R shunt to tame the tweeter Fs a bit.
Impedance must go a bit low at the high end, but maybe that won't matter most times. I might use a higher order tweeter filter around 3kHz, but it's all just experimentation in the end.
Eminence would probably use 2mH and 10uF on the bass in an off-the-shelf filter.
Certainly the Eminence driver looks nice.
Best, Steve.
https://eminence.com/products/alpha_10a
IIRC, it was used in Wayne Parham's 2 and 3 Pi speakers in different sized reflex boxes.
You might use a small coil, say 0.5 mH on the bass to correct the rising output. And a Vifa DX25 high output 4 ohm tweeter with a mere 10uF or so capacitor and a 15R shunt to tame the tweeter Fs a bit.
Impedance must go a bit low at the high end, but maybe that won't matter most times. I might use a higher order tweeter filter around 3kHz, but it's all just experimentation in the end.
Eminence would probably use 2mH and 10uF on the bass in an off-the-shelf filter.
Certainly the Eminence driver looks nice.
Best, Steve.
Something I've been thinking about a bit just recently. Most woofers have a rising response; if this is due to a rising impedance does using a conjugate such as a Zobel also stop the rising response?
Hence the common use of what Weems called a Strange Second Order network on woofers. I should have another go at one of those circuit programs
Steve the XO that came on this speaker was a 0.33mH aircoil, that 16R resistor across the tweeter along with a series 10uF
Tweeter being the Scanspeak made Peerless DX25TG-05-04
Hence the common use of what Weems called a Strange Second Order network on woofers. I should have another go at one of those circuit programs
Steve the XO that came on this speaker was a 0.33mH aircoil, that 16R resistor across the tweeter along with a series 10uF
Tweeter being the Scanspeak made Peerless DX25TG-05-04
Attachments
I have a pair of Alpha 10, they are are a very flexible driver. They are well behaved from the midbass through the midrange and can be applied a number of different ways. They do not need a lot of filtering, I run mine on an open baffle and have gone from a 7.5 mH inductor first order to a 4.5 mH to no filter at all in their current version. Many people have heard them in all three versions with no complaints. I would suggest experimenting for best sound, start with no filter at all and see where it goes.
the dayton jbl pt clone with a d220ti works fine crossed lr2 1.3khz.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-12-Waveguide-1-3-8-18-TPI-270-318?quantity=1
only need a little eq around horn loading, the 12khz may not be needed.
https://gainphile.blogspot.com/2010/11/s15-econowave-dsp.html
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...-12-Waveguide-1-3-8-18-TPI-270-318?quantity=1
only need a little eq around horn loading, the 12khz may not be needed.
https://gainphile.blogspot.com/2010/11/s15-econowave-dsp.html
OK and thanx for all the feedback.
I'll go with a small sealed box but a bit bigger than minimum, just waiting on some FerroFluid to finish the tweeter rebuild and then trying to decide on whether or not to use a super tweeter for above 15K where the big tweeter falls off rapidly; I have those cheap Fostex ones so no money need be spent and they only need a 1.5uF cap in series it seems
I'll go with a small sealed box but a bit bigger than minimum, just waiting on some FerroFluid to finish the tweeter rebuild and then trying to decide on whether or not to use a super tweeter for above 15K where the big tweeter falls off rapidly; I have those cheap Fostex ones so no money need be spent and they only need a 1.5uF cap in series it seems
I had a passing thought just to mention ...
Because you've got high fs along with high sensitivity and power capacity + a generally rugged 'motor assembly',
you could > at the expense of some sensitivity and power handling actually add some mass to the cone, to reduce fs.
This should only be moderately used in practice, to lower fs by 5 to 10 Hz. Adding mass around the center dust cap works.
I think you would call this - being very adventurous & living dangerously 😉
I've down exactly that in the past but in this case I'll add the bass by including a woofer or two.
I might give a quick spray of black enamel [ maybe/maybe not] as these are going to live in the shed
Also real low bass will be handled by the big subwoofer box, crossed using digital. If I got another rack amp I could go 3-way too but I don't see the need just yet
I might give a quick spray of black enamel [ maybe/maybe not] as these are going to live in the shed
Also real low bass will be handled by the big subwoofer box, crossed using digital. If I got another rack amp I could go 3-way too but I don't see the need just yet
Storing speakers in a shed
There are sheds and then there are sheds when it comes to moisture levels.
If you have storage subject to moisture, a very handy hint is to gently coat your 'flexible cone wires' with motor oil.
( WD 40 is too thin )
There are sheds and then there are sheds when it comes to moisture levels.
If you have storage subject to moisture, a very handy hint is to gently coat your 'flexible cone wires' with motor oil.
( WD 40 is too thin )
