What Solder For My New Solder Pot???

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I have only one suggestion, and that would be a quality (Kester?) SN63/PB37 bar solder. It's really an ideal alloy for electronics work - not only is it a eutectic alloy, but it's also the mechanically strongest of the entire lead-tin solder series.

You will also need a paste rosin-flux. I like Kester44 but others are fine as well. You'll want the paste for tinning wire ends, and so on. Then, jump on eBay and order some solid rosin - it's quite inexpensive (<$1 US) and comes in small, solid blocks. Get the generic Asian stuff that's sold to musicians for stringed instruments.

Here's the stuff I use: (eBay) Rosin Resin for Bow Strings

Sometimes it's nice to flux the surface of the pot, when you're doing various kinds of work, and you need solid flux for that. It's also awesome for tinning irons..

Last but not least, keep a little tool around to scrape the dross off the pot. It's OK to leave dross on the surface if you're not working, but remove it regularly when you are using it.
 
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Hi legendre, thanks so much for all the info!
I'm going to need a moment to figure all that out...

So just spread the rosin on the pot before heating and putting the solder in??

Rosin Resin, Resin Rosin..
Rosin Resin is what it says on the epay listing... lol..

I wonder if the rosin that my Dad left me is still any good...
I have a fair amount of it.... but its decades old....

Which do you use the solid for, and which do you use the paste for?

Cheers and thanks again!
Greg
 
I bought some Kester Ultrapure 63/37 on eBay for about $30 a bar. There are usually some industrial surplus bars located in North America for sale on the site, sometimes at attractive prices, but usually less than buying from the usual sources.

Care to elaborate on how you remove dross?
 
There are numerous ways of preventing it, one may work for your solder pot (dross is oxidised solder), just google "preventing dross in solder" or just do as above. Don't use a plastic tool like a very incompetent production engineer! I once worked with did...
When we went lead free he also didn't line the steel solder pot with titanium or similar, 30Kg of molten solder all over the floor was interesting.
Leaded solder does not have this problem.
 
Scrape it off the surface with a bent piece of sheet metal.

One of those card-slot fillers from a generic PC case is perfect.. Just cut / bend to a convenient shape and wind a little heat insulation on the part you hold. I use a cheap-o screwdriver. In reality, just about ANYTHING is fine!

All you're doing is scraping dross off the surface every minute or so while you work, so it doesn't get on the wire(s). And like I said, if you're +not+ working, but the pot is hot, leave the dross! It will only make more once you remove it. The dross acts to protect the surface, much as any other oxide surface does on other metals - think gun bluing, etc.
 
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