Im toying with the idea of trying to buy drivers for (4) Tham15 cabs, that will run off a single 120v 20A circuit.
Kappalite 3015LF neo (expensive)
Dayton PA380 (does this work?)
Any suggestions that keep them sounding good, dont break the bank, and meet the proposed power situation? Or is it just a bad idea?
Or should I buy the recomended drivers and run the amplifiers at half power?
Kappalite 3015LF neo (expensive)
Dayton PA380 (does this work?)
Any suggestions that keep them sounding good, dont break the bank, and meet the proposed power situation? Or is it just a bad idea?
Or should I buy the recomended drivers and run the amplifiers at half power?
You can run any drivers you want off that outlet, as long as you choose an amp that won't blow the breaker.
Of course, that means that for some drivers, you're not getting all the potential output from them, but if they have other advantages then they may still be a good idea.
Those other advantages might be things like lower distortion, better frequency response, less power compression, more potential for higher output in the future if you get a proper distro sorted etc etc etc.
I'm sure there are lots of drivers discussed in the main THAM thread - I'd start by looking there.
Of course, that means that for some drivers, you're not getting all the potential output from them, but if they have other advantages then they may still be a good idea.
Those other advantages might be things like lower distortion, better frequency response, less power compression, more potential for higher output in the future if you get a proper distro sorted etc etc etc.
I'm sure there are lots of drivers discussed in the main THAM thread - I'd start by looking there.
Back in the day, I was told that damage to drivers happens when driving them hard-ish with an underpowered amp. So that’s my fear, possible unfounded?
“I'm sure there are lots of drivers discussed in the main THAM thread - I'd start by looking there.”
There is a lot off discussion about drivers that don’t exist anymore, or are really expensive. But I haven’t found that middle priced, mid wattage driver discussed or graphed in the thread yet.
“I'm sure there are lots of drivers discussed in the main THAM thread - I'd start by looking there.”
There is a lot off discussion about drivers that don’t exist anymore, or are really expensive. But I haven’t found that middle priced, mid wattage driver discussed or graphed in the thread yet.
Drivers with a high BL^2/Re value will be more efficient. They may not be the most sensitive. Unfortunately these are also the most expensive drivers as they have the largest motors. E.G https://www.bcspeakers.com/en/products/lf-driver/15-0/8/15ds115-8
I would advise drivers with a n0 around 3% (typically 2.5 - 3.5%), if absent in the sheet it can be calculated by Fs^3 x Vas / Qes x 9.6 E - 8. Often these drivers have a 3" voice coil and a medium Xmax, from the formula you can see that a high Fs or low Qes are favored. Considering it's a tapped horn I wouldn't look for drivers with a high Vas, if the n0 gets to high it's often at the expense of the Xmax, which I would keep between 5 - 9 mm (higher is better).
Applying this selects the Kappalite 3015LF, the Kappa Pro 15LF and the B&C 15NDL88. If you're worried about keeping your voice coil alive, you could opt for a 4" VC, like the 15NA100
Applying this selects the Kappalite 3015LF, the Kappa Pro 15LF and the B&C 15NDL88. If you're worried about keeping your voice coil alive, you could opt for a 4" VC, like the 15NA100
There is a mechanism by which an "underpowered" amp can still damage drivers but it's quite unlikely in your case.
When an amp clips it produces more distortion than normal. That distortion represents more energy at higher frequencies than the original signal.
If that amp were powering a 2 or 3 way speaker, that excess higher frequency energy might be enough to damage a lower powered mid or tweeter.
In your case, the amp will only be powering the THAM's, so no lower powered mids or highs on the same channels, so much less chance of damage.
Also, simply making sure you don't turn it up to the point of clipping the amps will prevent that possibility too 😉
The math is way over my head. So thank you for the educated recommendations!
The Pro 15lf is available, I think I can budget it x4 cabs, and I can live with 600rms.
Everything else is twice the cost :/
even the B&C 15NDL88 @700rms is double the price.
A clipping amplifier increases the average energy of the music signal, a 500 W rated amplifier well into clipping can have a higher average output than a 750 W rated amplifier that doesn't clip the signal. In that way it acts like a compressor, the original train of thought is that a larger amplifier is less likely to clip, thus the average energy of the signal does not go beyond its original less compressed value.
Bottom line, don't clip your amplifiers.
1.66 times the price where I live, it does have a neodymium magnet though, it's less than halve the weight of the Kappa Pro 15LF. Only you can decide if that's worth the price difference 😉
Bottom line, don't clip your amplifiers.
1.66 times the price where I live, it does have a neodymium magnet though, it's less than halve the weight of the Kappa Pro 15LF. Only you can decide if that's worth the price difference 😉