Sanded down the aluminium strips around the edges today to give a very sophosticated look.
Sanded, polished, brushed using chemicals and other things to give mirror like finish.
Aplogies for quick photography, will take better photos tomorow.
Being restored to sell on ebay soon.
I bet you never seen Bang & Olufsen Beovox speakers look this good!
Let me know what your opinions are.
Next steps of restorations:
On beovox S75, S30, P30 & S45
1. Wax & polish woods.
2. Full recap with high quality capacitors costing $10 each.
3. Full re wirring with high quality 6mm x 2 wire. (Improves performance stronger bass and stronger treble)
4. Gold speaker connectors at back to allow Banana plugs and bare wire connections.
5. Speaker covers wash & polish (already done).
Welcome to buy.
See photos below
Sanded, polished, brushed using chemicals and other things to give mirror like finish.
Aplogies for quick photography, will take better photos tomorow.
Being restored to sell on ebay soon.
I bet you never seen Bang & Olufsen Beovox speakers look this good!
Let me know what your opinions are.
Next steps of restorations:
On beovox S75, S30, P30 & S45
1. Wax & polish woods.
2. Full recap with high quality capacitors costing $10 each.
3. Full re wirring with high quality 6mm x 2 wire. (Improves performance stronger bass and stronger treble)
4. Gold speaker connectors at back to allow Banana plugs and bare wire connections.
5. Speaker covers wash & polish (already done).
Welcome to buy.
See photos below
Attachments
+1, but then it wouldn't be a full refurbish unless perfectly functioning parts were replaced at higher than necessary cost. 😉
I'd be inclined to go a bit more budget on the internal wire and binding posts as well - considering the thickness of drivers' voice coils and other compromises in the high level signal path, a couple of feet or less of #18 or thinner wire inside the box will probably not make as huge improvement as you'd think.
6mm wire? If diameter that's AWG #2, if CSA, that's #10 - still rather overkill for inside a speaker box AFAIC, and can make for a rather risky solder connection on smaller drivers' solder tabs.
I'd be inclined to go a bit more budget on the internal wire and binding posts as well - considering the thickness of drivers' voice coils and other compromises in the high level signal path, a couple of feet or less of #18 or thinner wire inside the box will probably not make as huge improvement as you'd think.
6mm wire? If diameter that's AWG #2, if CSA, that's #10 - still rather overkill for inside a speaker box AFAIC, and can make for a rather risky solder connection on smaller drivers' solder tabs.
Whats MP? How do I measure capacitors?
Because many people on many forums are saying they are having massive sound improvements.
Capacitor lifespan is 20 - 30 years than start negatively affecting sound performance.
Beovox speakers are 40 years old.
I can tell my Beovox S45's are sounding dull its not the tweeters.
I will be carry out my first recaps in coming weeks.
A/B split testing one speaker recapped with $2 capacitors, one speaker no recap.
If hear sound improvement will conduct next sound test one Beovox S45 speaker with $2 capacitors against 1 speaker with $10 capacitors.
Luckily the Beovox S45 only has 3 capacitors per speaker so should be a fairly low spend.
While it can be time-consuming, I'd suggest changing only one side at a time, and have a spare set of ears on hand when comparing the two with a mono-ed signal.
MP = metallized paper
as for measuring your caps - most better quality DVM have capacitance functions that should be close enough for rock n roll
MP = metallized paper
as for measuring your caps - most better quality DVM have capacitance functions that should be close enough for rock n roll
Forget all this if you are selling them. Only useful if they are "keepers".
I have always liked the drivers in this particular 4-way unit. The Peerless tweeter gets mixed reviews. Some say it is very "detailed" and clear while others think it is a bit "fizzy" on the top.
Can I make two suggestions?
(i) Like almost almost 1" textile domes there is a resonance at about 13kHz. (it is clearly seen in Peerless own data sheets). This responds well to a simple LCR notch filter at 13k Hz.
(ii) If you are happy to fiddle around with the Philips 2" dome you can modify that too.
Remove it and then take off the plastic guard from the from the front...three screws I think. Then attache the dome/voice coil to the magnet with a bit of silastic i.e. so NOT a permanent modification. Make a suitable annular "thingo" (annulas?) from some wood to fit between the magnet and the front baffle and secure with some sort of glue. That will improve the problems that arise from diffraction effects. It is a nice driver anyway but even clearer when modified. (keep the kids away afterwards of course)
Some interesting work from the '70's (Wharfdale I think) indicated that the head of a small screw used to attach a tweeter to a baffle had audible effects.
Again if you are feeling adventurous there is scope to do standard mods to the lower mid...blue tack the frame etc. Details on net for mods to steel frame drivers.
Good luck cheers Jonathan
I have always liked the drivers in this particular 4-way unit. The Peerless tweeter gets mixed reviews. Some say it is very "detailed" and clear while others think it is a bit "fizzy" on the top.
Can I make two suggestions?
(i) Like almost almost 1" textile domes there is a resonance at about 13kHz. (it is clearly seen in Peerless own data sheets). This responds well to a simple LCR notch filter at 13k Hz.
(ii) If you are happy to fiddle around with the Philips 2" dome you can modify that too.
Remove it and then take off the plastic guard from the from the front...three screws I think. Then attache the dome/voice coil to the magnet with a bit of silastic i.e. so NOT a permanent modification. Make a suitable annular "thingo" (annulas?) from some wood to fit between the magnet and the front baffle and secure with some sort of glue. That will improve the problems that arise from diffraction effects. It is a nice driver anyway but even clearer when modified. (keep the kids away afterwards of course)
Some interesting work from the '70's (Wharfdale I think) indicated that the head of a small screw used to attach a tweeter to a baffle had audible effects.
Again if you are feeling adventurous there is scope to do standard mods to the lower mid...blue tack the frame etc. Details on net for mods to steel frame drivers.
Good luck cheers Jonathan
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Jonathon Bright - I'm looking to keep the speakers original as possible minor mods to increase resale value.
If I really wanted them to sound bettter I would replace the woofer with modern 1000 watt car audio woofers made of strong material to really push some bass unlike the S75's soft paper woofers!
If I really wanted them to sound bettter I would replace the woofer with modern 1000 watt car audio woofers made of strong material to really push some bass unlike the S75's soft paper woofers!
You'd need another enclosure of course. And that new enclosure has to be made to better support the higher power=higher pressure.
Also don't forget different values or adjustements to the crossover (lowpass path for the woofer) because of the different speaker.
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