i'm trying to determine approximate manufacturing date on some Sony SSC 610 speakers
i'm also trying to determine if these drivers are actually Sony made or come from a Canadian supplier?
i'm also trying to determine if these drivers are actually Sony made or come from a Canadian supplier?
All Sony speakers made in Canada used Japanese drivers from companies like Foster or Pioneer. Drivers were shipped from Japan, but the enclosures were Canadian made.
Bass driver looks like some made by RSC (Radio Speakers Canada), these all look like North American drivers, not Japanese.
dave
dave
My Dad oversaw pretty much all speaker manufacturing here in Canada for Sony. According to him, all drivers were Japanese, made to Sony specifications.
Not the ones in the boxes pictured. The 4 character code strating with D is a Canadian OEM code. Built to Sony specifications likely.
dave
dave
Dave,
You're probably right. I prodded my Dad a bit more, and now he's remembering a lot of lower cost speakers were outsourced. He was in charge of the speakers made by Sony, but he does not have much information on the outsourced product.
DavidL thanks! so the timeline has us in the disco era 😀
planet10 i think your speaker sleuthing abilities are amazing is this RSC stuff or does it come from the old Cambridge Speaker plant in Waterloo the frame reminds me of other stuff like Electrohome,Viking etc. or is this early McBride stuff (the hint there comes in the form of the frame being pre stamped for 70v x-former mounting).
it appears the numbering on the drivers is a packaged set:
dwe7 pack : woofer-DWB6 SS610B
mid-DWH6 SS610M
tweeter-DWH6 SS610T
so the last thumbnail shot is of a 5 inch hole, on which a 6 inch(eff. cone dia) 7.25(frame) bass driver was mounted (baffle thickness 5/8) not to mention a layer of perforated plastic and a grillcloth.
now we need to track down the guy at the plant who said: that how i was told to make them!😕
planet10 i think your speaker sleuthing abilities are amazing is this RSC stuff or does it come from the old Cambridge Speaker plant in Waterloo the frame reminds me of other stuff like Electrohome,Viking etc. or is this early McBride stuff (the hint there comes in the form of the frame being pre stamped for 70v x-former mounting).
it appears the numbering on the drivers is a packaged set:
dwe7 pack : woofer-DWB6 SS610B
mid-DWH6 SS610M
tweeter-DWH6 SS610T
so the last thumbnail shot is of a 5 inch hole, on which a 6 inch(eff. cone dia) 7.25(frame) bass driver was mounted (baffle thickness 5/8) not to mention a layer of perforated plastic and a grillcloth.
now we need to track down the guy at the plant who said: that how i was told to make them!😕
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greyhorse
if your father was involved with manufacturing/distribution for Sony i'd really like to communicate with him about his tenure/time there as i'm trying to gather info on the canadian electronics manufacturing sector in that era.
sincerely
gilles
if your father was involved with manufacturing/distribution for Sony i'd really like to communicate with him about his tenure/time there as i'm trying to gather info on the canadian electronics manufacturing sector in that era.
sincerely
gilles
would anybody have any info on these as to wattage? or detail specs on the drivers?
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I doubt it. But it looks like a child of its time.
The bass will be high efficiency with a rigid surround I expect. It probably has good natural rolloff around 3kHz. It looks like lowish inductance from the small voicecoil, probably Le around 0.6mH, but I could be wrong on that. The 3" and 2" cone tweeters get 2.2uF and 1uF probably.
The bass won't take more than about 20 watts I expect. It's closed box, isn't it. And quite big at that. But I don't suppose it goes very deep with a cloth surround.
I have had a lot of fun giving this sort of speaker a proper crossover for a two way. It then sounds incredibly good. Efficient too. 🙂
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Hi,
That bass/mid mounting is distinctly odd. FWIW it would probably
work better as a two way with the mid omitted than it does as
a 3 way, the x/o is too crude and has too much driver overlap.
rgds, sreten.
That bass/mid mounting is distinctly odd. FWIW it would probably
work better as a two way with the mid omitted than it does as
a 3 way, the x/o is too crude and has too much driver overlap.
rgds, sreten.
when i brought these orphans out of time home from the "thrift" store the one that worked surprised me with how sensitive it was, which intrigued me.the non working one turned out to be a corroded input terminal.
so after giving them a listen for a while and liking them it didn't resolve my curiosity as to "what's in there"
the mdf boxes are kind of ratty and moisture swollen so cutting the backs off was no big deal.
so think i'll forge ahead and give them a new home just not sure what kind?
the 18.5 x 10.5 x 8.5 inch "doghouses" that they are aren't that big so upsizing their new home is probably in order along with better x-over.
so after giving them a listen for a while and liking them it didn't resolve my curiosity as to "what's in there"
the mdf boxes are kind of ratty and moisture swollen so cutting the backs off was no big deal.
so think i'll forge ahead and give them a new home just not sure what kind?
the 18.5 x 10.5 x 8.5 inch "doghouses" that they are aren't that big so upsizing their new home is probably in order along with better x-over.
The cabinet should be pretty similar to the original I'd think. It's odd that they glued it all together with the drivers mounted on the inside. You'd want some to get some access normally for maintenance, without having to smash the box up...😕
These were some Sony E44 I picked up with a mere 2.2uF on the mylar dome tweeter. I guessed the woofer was well behaved since it ran full range.
I gave it the barest minimum bass crossover that satisfied phase requirement:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/245917-diy-kef-celestion-6.html#post3868470
I guessed the tweeter wouldn't need much attenuation since levels were right in the first place, and so it turned out, 2.2R is series/22R shunt was near enough. I have built variations on this with cone tweeters and they work well too.
These were some Sony E44 I picked up with a mere 2.2uF on the mylar dome tweeter. I guessed the woofer was well behaved since it ran full range.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I gave it the barest minimum bass crossover that satisfied phase requirement:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/245917-diy-kef-celestion-6.html#post3868470
I guessed the tweeter wouldn't need much attenuation since levels were right in the first place, and so it turned out, 2.2R is series/22R shunt was near enough. I have built variations on this with cone tweeters and they work well too.
i think the smaller cut out on the bass driver was intentional cheap/crude method of changing tone and level on the bass driver.
without driver specs it will be hard to do anything other than reproduce the box.
without driver specs it will be hard to do anything other than reproduce the box.
well i made an attempt at measuring T/S parameters i think i'm in the ballpark (my antique test gear and hasty/sloppy methodology made for large differences in results)
ss610b: Fs:69hz Qts:0.7 Vas:30.9 liters
so what would you do with a driver like this....?
i'd still like to find any sort of hint as to wattage.
ss610b: Fs:69hz Qts:0.7 Vas:30.9 liters
so what would you do with a driver like this....?
i'd still like to find any sort of hint as to wattage.
Open or infinite baffle or an aperiodic box.
Wattage is not really all that relevant or important. They likly don't needmuch and could likely be melted down fairly easily with unjudicious useof the volume control.
dave
don't know enough about open baffles or have the right listening space (me thinks)
with the high Vas i'd have to go big (huge) in order to stay flat down low no?(i should maybe re-do my measurements and calculations a few times)
so what's the scoop on "aperiodic"?
with the high Vas i'd have to go big (huge) in order to stay flat down low no?(i should maybe re-do my measurements and calculations a few times)
so what's the scoop on "aperiodic"?
Big box (at least Vas), and then make it leaky, then damp the leask for flattest impedance hump or use GM's clik test. You are trying to flatten the humpin response caused by putting the driver in a box (with a 0.7 Qts it won't be too bad, which is why just a BIG box will work too.
dave
i was trying to convince my wife to let me convert our bedroom closet into a new home for these she told me to make boxes big enough to move into with them....
the click test is that the ol' David B Weems spdt switch with a battery and 10 ohm resistor?
so far verifying my measurements bears out that Vas
so how big to start? the original box was something like 18 x 12 x 8 with the undersized driver opening
the click test is that the ol' David B Weems spdt switch with a battery and 10 ohm resistor?
so far verifying my measurements bears out that Vas
so how big to start? the original box was something like 18 x 12 x 8 with the undersized driver opening
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