As per the title, im looking at building a powerfull class d amp, tbh i really dont have a clue where to start, i have built amp circuits in the past from kits etc but as far as design goes im clueless 🙁
Basically im looking at making a amp which can produce 5000 watts or so at 1 ohm. So the outpud needs to be somewhere in the region of 75V and capable of switching 75Amps
The usable frequency bust be between 10Hz and 80Hz
The amp does not need to be good quality just efficient and very powerfull, Does anyone have or can anyone draw up a schematic for a basic circuit that will do the job? It does not need any bells and whistles like protection etc, im just after pure power.
Many thanks in anticipation
Basically im looking at making a amp which can produce 5000 watts or so at 1 ohm. So the outpud needs to be somewhere in the region of 75V and capable of switching 75Amps
The usable frequency bust be between 10Hz and 80Hz
The amp does not need to be good quality just efficient and very powerfull, Does anyone have or can anyone draw up a schematic for a basic circuit that will do the job? It does not need any bells and whistles like protection etc, im just after pure power.
Many thanks in anticipation
Designing (or even building from a schematic) something with that kind of power at that kind of impedance is not for the faint hearted. Throw in the added problem of a switching PSU to cope and you may as well forget it.
I'm guessing a little from your sig here as to what your intentions are. If you are adding another (pair of?) speaker to achieve your desired SPL, just add another amp for it. Paralleling speakers on one amp is just a foolish way to do things, IMO. You give yourself massive current transport problems and actually lower your achieveable output because of huge losses.
If you really must use one amp, and you want to build your own, you would be far better off making an amp that puts out high *voltage* rather than current, and connecting drivers in *series* to gain *higher impedance*. This results in much less current demands, making everything easier and less lossy.
I'm guessing a little from your sig here as to what your intentions are. If you are adding another (pair of?) speaker to achieve your desired SPL, just add another amp for it. Paralleling speakers on one amp is just a foolish way to do things, IMO. You give yourself massive current transport problems and actually lower your achieveable output because of huge losses.
If you really must use one amp, and you want to build your own, you would be far better off making an amp that puts out high *voltage* rather than current, and connecting drivers in *series* to gain *higher impedance*. This results in much less current demands, making everything easier and less lossy.
ok, so how about a 4 ohm load then? i know its a big ask if its not possible i guess i will have to do it the old fashioned way 🙁 i was looking for a challenge to pass my time over the winter. I wouldnt be able to use the amp for competitions as it would not be commercially available, i just wanted a little play 🙂 But yes it would be nice to push the 150dB barrier 😀
hi,
Probably 5k@1ohm class D sub amp with enough sound quality for SPL is quite simple task vs SMPS for it. About 500A@12V!! As far as i know, for 150db sufficiently two 12" subwoofers and 1 up to 2Kw.
Probably 5k@1ohm class D sub amp with enough sound quality for SPL is quite simple task vs SMPS for it. About 500A@12V!! As far as i know, for 150db sufficiently two 12" subwoofers and 1 up to 2Kw.
danielkelley10 said:
I guess with 150dB you blow out the windows and roof, but probably those are already heavily reinforced.
Have fun, this stuff is not my cup of tea. If I would have to do it, I would like the other replyer use more amps.
Gertjan
my current amp pulls around 350 amps at full power, producing around 3000 watts. it will only be run for very short perids of time, i can sustain 12V with 1200amp draw for upto about 10 seconds. It will only need to operate for about 3 secconds so this shouldnt cause a problem.
Do you think it would be easyer to modify my current amp to do the 5000 watts or start from scratch? As said SQ is not a issue it will only be used to play a 54Hz sinewave (or there abouts) not for listening to music.
Is there somewhere i could get a schematic? I know i can get schematics for other 3000 watt amps but they have loads of computerdriven protection/logging systems built into them which i do not need. If i got a copy of them would anyone here be able to loose all the non applicable junk and modify to do 5KW?
Do you think it would be easyer to modify my current amp to do the 5000 watts or start from scratch? As said SQ is not a issue it will only be used to play a 54Hz sinewave (or there abouts) not for listening to music.
Is there somewhere i could get a schematic? I know i can get schematics for other 3000 watt amps but they have loads of computerdriven protection/logging systems built into them which i do not need. If i got a copy of them would anyone here be able to loose all the non applicable junk and modify to do 5KW?
ohh the reason i would like 5kw from one amp is i would like to use 2 of them to put 10KW through my sub. (yes i know i am a looney, but i also knowthe sub will take it for 3 seccond burps)
I think you are on the wrong track. Your sub voicecoil may be able to take the 3 second burp, but often overlooked is the excursion capability of the speaker. To go up 3dB you need to double excursion. I'm confident you will break your speaker(s) if you try it, as you must already be pushing some massive excursion.
As for modding an amp, it's possible. But the gains would probably be negligible. You would need to rewind the power supply transformer to give out higher voltage. The problem with this is the core is probably already not far off saturation (if not already), so the supply would just collapse to the same level as before anyway.
I'm assuming you are already running at 1 ohm. If you are not, you could try this for 3 sec burps, at no cost except an amp that will not last very long and may well break after a few goes. As said above though, I'm confident this is not worth trying due to the speaker excursion being the limiting factor. Even if you could somehow measure excursion and keep to a limit, it would probably only get you 0.5 dB tops.
As for modding an amp, it's possible. But the gains would probably be negligible. You would need to rewind the power supply transformer to give out higher voltage. The problem with this is the core is probably already not far off saturation (if not already), so the supply would just collapse to the same level as before anyway.
I'm assuming you are already running at 1 ohm. If you are not, you could try this for 3 sec burps, at no cost except an amp that will not last very long and may well break after a few goes. As said above though, I'm confident this is not worth trying due to the speaker excursion being the limiting factor. Even if you could somehow measure excursion and keep to a limit, it would probably only get you 0.5 dB tops.
Excursion at the tuning frequency is pritty low as the box it stned to 51Hz to peak at 54Hz, due to playing at the tuning frequency the excursion is minimal. i know the sub can handle 10Kw people have run 12 KW into one of these.
Im currently running a 0.75ohm load, but due to impedance rise due to the box the amp is actually seeing a 2ohm load so it is running the full 3000 watts possible.
Could i not use bigger cores then rewind accordingly? I know these amps can be run off a 18 volt supply for competitions (making them produce in excess of 4000 watts) so would i be able to rewind the power supply torroid to give the amp the impression it is receiving a 18 volt feed?
Im currently running a 0.75ohm load, but due to impedance rise due to the box the amp is actually seeing a 2ohm load so it is running the full 3000 watts possible.
Could i not use bigger cores then rewind accordingly? I know these amps can be run off a 18 volt supply for competitions (making them produce in excess of 4000 watts) so would i be able to rewind the power supply torroid to give the amp the impression it is receiving a 18 volt feed?
How many speakers are you running?
It depends on how the amp PSU works whether you will actually get any increased output with rewound secondary or primary, or more input voltage. If the design is such that the amp rails are regulated (fixed) then you are wasting your time. If there is no regulation/feedback taking place then you have room to experiment. I would have thought that a high end amp would use regulation. But maybe SPL competition amps don't have this. Yuk.
However, without specialist equipment, knowledge and experience you are limited really to just upping the secondary voltage. If you start messing with the primary the chances are you will run the core into saturation and fry the switching devices. It's too fine a balance between working and fire at those kind of power levels.
It depends on how the amp PSU works whether you will actually get any increased output with rewound secondary or primary, or more input voltage. If the design is such that the amp rails are regulated (fixed) then you are wasting your time. If there is no regulation/feedback taking place then you have room to experiment. I would have thought that a high end amp would use regulation. But maybe SPL competition amps don't have this. Yuk.
However, without specialist equipment, knowledge and experience you are limited really to just upping the secondary voltage. If you start messing with the primary the chances are you will run the core into saturation and fry the switching devices. It's too fine a balance between working and fire at those kind of power levels.
Im just running a single 15" DVC sub (dual 1.5ohm coils)
its definatly not a regulated amp, i may well have a play and see what i can do. If not i guess i will have to invest in another amp or 2, and get sub reconed to dual 1ohm coils.
its definatly not a regulated amp, i may well have a play and see what i can do. If not i guess i will have to invest in another amp or 2, and get sub reconed to dual 1ohm coils.
Why do you list USA amps as your homepage? Are you affiliated with them? Something is fishy here.
Why not use more a efficent speaker/enclosure to make better use of the power you already have?
5KW is alotta juice.. Don't forget about the 2-3 extra alternators to power it..
5KW is alotta juice.. Don't forget about the 2-3 extra alternators to power it..
How about this ?
If you want to break the 150dB SPL barrier try this. Forget about amps, even class D isnt that effecient when you add a switching power supply, and has limited current supply. So assuming you only want to beat the 150dB mark with a test tone you can use a power inverter
Start with a DC-DC converter followed by a IGBT microcontrolled power inverter. The output will be nasty as hell ( closer to square wave then a sine wave, but you'll only get the fundamental harmonic ) This is how large AC-motors are driven. You can vary the frequency by adjusting the output gate signals for the IGBTs.
P.S. DONT KILL YOURSELF IN THE PROCESS
If you want to break the 150dB SPL barrier try this. Forget about amps, even class D isnt that effecient when you add a switching power supply, and has limited current supply. So assuming you only want to beat the 150dB mark with a test tone you can use a power inverter
Start with a DC-DC converter followed by a IGBT microcontrolled power inverter. The output will be nasty as hell ( closer to square wave then a sine wave, but you'll only get the fundamental harmonic ) This is how large AC-motors are driven. You can vary the frequency by adjusting the output gate signals for the IGBTs.
P.S. DONT KILL YOURSELF IN THE PROCESS
What about this insane idea?
The bridge circuit uses the resonant frequency of the 100µH/100000µF LC-series. It has to be tuned carefully therefore.
But you need much more appropriate Mosfets to handle the 4000Apk AC current.
The current is flowing through the inductor and the caps too. Calculate for the maximum ripple current of the caps (you would need ~100 Sikorel caps instead of 10 in the simulation, don't cook them).
Good luck, Timo
The bridge circuit uses the resonant frequency of the 100µH/100000µF LC-series. It has to be tuned carefully therefore.
But you need much more appropriate Mosfets to handle the 4000Apk AC current.
The current is flowing through the inductor and the caps too. Calculate for the maximum ripple current of the caps (you would need ~100 Sikorel caps instead of 10 in the simulation, don't cook them).
Good luck, Timo
sounds interesting tiki,
and kilowattski, the reason my homepage is set as USAMPS is:
1) because i like their amps(although they are out of my price range) i have borrowed a couple from the guy who is a friend of mine and the UK importer of them.
2) They are great amps and are rock solid, ive never seen one break unlike SPL Dynamics amps which i see go pop regularly.
3) and finally i dont have my own homepage so thought i would just put a good link in there.
and kilowattski, the reason my homepage is set as USAMPS is:
1) because i like their amps(although they are out of my price range) i have borrowed a couple from the guy who is a friend of mine and the UK importer of them.
2) They are great amps and are rock solid, ive never seen one break unlike SPL Dynamics amps which i see go pop regularly.
3) and finally i dont have my own homepage so thought i would just put a good link in there.
ohh i wish i was affiliated with them then i could probably afford to run their kit rather than finding ways to maake the best use from the limited kit i have.
Bypass the amp all together. Buy a 7000 watt gasoline generator and hook the 220V output straight to the woofers. You can adjust the govener to get the frequency you need (40 hz to 70 hz)
thats a good idea, i hadnt thought of that, i know the sub i use can cope with being wired directly into a mains socket, thanks 🙂
Well, the Zappulse modules can get about halfway to your rated power in bridge mode. Using more drivers AND more amps (seperately) would give you an extra 3dB output and also move the amp into a more reasonable current range.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.