What 8" drivers are best suited to build a home (not car's) subwoofer, either in sealed or tuned box, not very large.
If someone already knows of a whole project, with box and all, even better.
If someone already knows of a whole project, with box and all, even better.
Pair of RSS210HO-8 would do quite well.
I have four RSS210HO-8 drivers, two in each cabinet wired for 4 ohm stereo. In my room they go to 18 hz -3db.
How about such a ripol beauty?
Its jazzman's and he made a more plain, easier version with same sound.
http://jazzman-esl-page.blogspot.com/2011/01/ripole-subs-are-underway.html
Another vote for Dayton. In my case essentially the "Burro" design linked below, RSS210HF-4 in ~30L/25Hz with 70W originally built for a 2.1 music system. Low and clean at sensible levels... It got repurposed to temporary HT duty after we moved, but still going strong for 10 years now.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ncha-sub-designs-for-the-rss210hf-4#post40208
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ncha-sub-designs-for-the-rss210hf-4#post40208
Aura is still making drivers. There are Daytons for instance.
And i think i have 4 or 6 of the original.
dave
And i think i have 4 or 6 of the original.
dave
Wow, I didn't know Aura stopped the NS lineup. The Dayton drivers are close, but not quite the same.
I don't know how low the distortion is with the Peerless driver but, with the RSS210s I have, I am getting below 3% from 23 hz up and below 1% from 31 hz up at 95 db from 9 ft ( 3 m ) away.
I am using two in a 1.3 cubic ft box with two 12" passive radiators. I believe they are the Dayton DSA PRs.
Dynamic range is scary.
I am using two in a 1.3 cubic ft box with two 12" passive radiators. I believe they are the Dayton DSA PRs.
Dynamic range is scary.
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With push-push reaction cancelling opposed pairs, the 8 ohm versions are more suitable for parallel operation. Works a charm.
https://sbacoustics.com/product/8in-sb23mfcl45-8/
Imagine if you had 2 more for SWARM system? The smooth response and DR is just about as good as it gets for bass. It takes a little work to optimize though…..one of the subs needs to be out of phase so measuring is required to dial it in all the way. But once optimized,….well……let’s just say it’s end game performance.
Could you share some info on these? Thanks! I have the same drivers to work with, and I'm wondering how to configure them
It leaks air right through the cone so you’ll never be able to achieve a sealed alignment