Hello, i received this amp. It starts clipping very early. It seems, everything ok.
Tested at 2.4 Ohms, input current 130Amps, 12,3V, the amp starts allready cliiping, and railvoltage drops from 88V to 70 Volt.
Railvoltage looks also very low to me. Railcaps 160V, Railvoltage +88V, -88V.
It looks, that one transfomers is damaged, but i cant desolder, because plenty glue arround..
Tested at 2.4 Ohms, input current 130Amps, 12,3V, the amp starts allready cliiping, and railvoltage drops from 88V to 70 Volt.
Railvoltage looks also very low to me. Railcaps 160V, Railvoltage +88V, -88V.
It looks, that one transfomers is damaged, but i cant desolder, because plenty glue arround..
Attachments
On the gatepad PS i have only 9V, also at the driver transistors for PS 9VDC,
maybe thats the reason.
maybe thats the reason.
Is that 9v measured with a multimeter or is it the amplitude seen on a scope?
What is the duty cycle for the drive circuit?
What is the duty cycle for the drive circuit?
From what you posted, I don't see anything that would cause the rail voltage to be only 1/2 of what it should be.
Checked Rail voltage again. 88 VDC per Rail. When i reach about 130Amps input current, the railvoltage drops, and the amp starts clipping.
It doesnt match the manufacturers specs... I think, one transformer is damaged. If i dont find anything else, it will go back to customer unrepaired.
It doesnt match the manufacturers specs... I think, one transformer is damaged. If i dont find anything else, it will go back to customer unrepaired.
About what should rail be in this amp with 160v rail cap?
Rails are even so transformer maybe ok.
Both rails go down to 70 or just one?
Rails are even so transformer maybe ok.
Both rails go down to 70 or just one?
If you still have the amp, what's the ± amplitude of the waveform on the input to the rectifiers?
Use the secondary ground for the scope ground.
Use the secondary ground for the scope ground.
If you have that same waveform on every rectifier, I don't think you have a transformer problem.
Could this be an amp that's supposed to operate at 16v (or something higher than 12v)?
Will you have access to the vehicle?
Before I'd tell the owner that it's not repaired, I'd get it reinstalled and if all of the speakers are good but the amp seems down on power (to the owner), then let it go as is. If the owner believes it's back to normal, let him pay you.
Could this be an amp that's supposed to operate at 16v (or something higher than 12v)?
Will you have access to the vehicle?
Before I'd tell the owner that it's not repaired, I'd get it reinstalled and if all of the speakers are good but the amp seems down on power (to the owner), then let it go as is. If the owner believes it's back to normal, let him pay you.
I dont think, that the amp ever had the power to be supposed by manufacturer.
I measured 1250W RMS at 2,4Ohm, with 12,3V input..
The manufacturer said, 2100Watt at 2 Ohm...
I measured 1250W RMS at 2,4Ohm, with 12,3V input..
The manufacturer said, 2100Watt at 2 Ohm...
