According to the data the Ulawatu kit speaker should be lowish powered tube amp [SET] friendly.
Specs say they do not dip below 5 ohms and are at least 92db/watt sensitivity.
Has anybody used them with amps like that?I have an Almarro 205 which is only about 2.5 watts and an Almarro 318B which is more like 12 watts.Also a vintage Mullard 520 push pull at about 25 watts.
It is for a second room which is 4.8m by 3.4m so a medium to small room.A good sounding room though.I had Dynaudio C5s in there but sold them.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...QQFnoECBkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2iZQ_i3HIkZDZ3VLEuiekF
Specs say they do not dip below 5 ohms and are at least 92db/watt sensitivity.
Has anybody used them with amps like that?I have an Almarro 205 which is only about 2.5 watts and an Almarro 318B which is more like 12 watts.Also a vintage Mullard 520 push pull at about 25 watts.
It is for a second room which is 4.8m by 3.4m so a medium to small room.A good sounding room though.I had Dynaudio C5s in there but sold them.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...QQFnoECBkQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2iZQ_i3HIkZDZ3VLEuiekF
Minimum impedance can be more of a concern to solid state amps. Impedance variations can be a concern to amps that have a significant finite output impedance. Some SET amps will but some won't.
The sensitivity isn't bad, but it's not too high. I can suggest a way to work out the power you need but I'd rather not guess.
The sensitivity isn't bad, but it's not too high. I can suggest a way to work out the power you need but I'd rather not guess.
But..because I don't like floorstanders designs, though the Dynaudio C5s seems to have the right combination of drivers ( 7" + 2" dome + 1" dome ), I'd be more inclined to the Chevalier design ( BTW great site that of Curt Campbell!) which can be executed in a freestanding box.
That Morel combo is intriguing though it's not on my price range ( it worths every penny, in a customer's review on Madisound site) and one unit probably costs like the total of 12 SB Acoustics midwoofers - I checked : 242 $ vs 28*12=336 $
That Morel combo is intriguing though it's not on my price range ( it worths every penny, in a customer's review on Madisound site) and one unit probably costs like the total of 12 SB Acoustics midwoofers - I checked : 242 $ vs 28*12=336 $
Yes the Chevalier design looks good but only 87db sensitivity.I have other systems with SS amps that would suit it but am trying to get something far more sensitive for my valve/tube amps -especially the SETs .And not too big .SB Acoustic drivers are also affordable in Australia.Unlike some of the European stuff [especially Seas because we are directed to buy them from Madisound in the US -after they have been shipped from Norway.Which seem pretty silly.
Hi, just for talk...
If you really seek for HE ( high efficiency) go with pro drivers.
Not aiming for the very first octave would be rewarding in terms of space ( you know the Hoffman law...) but I bet that it's not your taste.
Just for talk because I cannot give you an exact recipe. Something like a SB Audience ROSSO 6MW15 (94 dB) paired with an Audax TW025A26.
I guess that it's way simpler from an amplifier POV to drive two bobbins instead of six(+1), but that's my feeling, not supported by facts.
I do prefer a single voice from multiple ones.
The Uluwatu's are still a clever and simple design, if you can stand multi- voices...
If you really seek for HE ( high efficiency) go with pro drivers.
Not aiming for the very first octave would be rewarding in terms of space ( you know the Hoffman law...) but I bet that it's not your taste.
Just for talk because I cannot give you an exact recipe. Something like a SB Audience ROSSO 6MW15 (94 dB) paired with an Audax TW025A26.
I guess that it's way simpler from an amplifier POV to drive two bobbins instead of six(+1), but that's my feeling, not supported by facts.
I do prefer a single voice from multiple ones.
The Uluwatu's are still a clever and simple design, if you can stand multi- voices...
with 87dB speakers you want idealy an amp that gives at about 100W at 8R to go loud enough. So for your tube amps it's not suited i think.
To fit the unofficial standard of max volume for hifi (105dB at 1m)
The 2.5w need a speaker arround 102dB
The 12w need a speaker arround 95dB
The 25w need a speaker arround 90dB
You will not play that loud, but count you need at least 10dB headroom to catch the peaks, and if you can have 20dB headroom it's even better. Not having that will generate a lot of distortion which can cause a hard sound. This is more critical with solid state (and essential with class D) than with tubes altough.
To fit the unofficial standard of max volume for hifi (105dB at 1m)
The 2.5w need a speaker arround 102dB
The 12w need a speaker arround 95dB
The 25w need a speaker arround 90dB
You will not play that loud, but count you need at least 10dB headroom to catch the peaks, and if you can have 20dB headroom it's even better. Not having that will generate a lot of distortion which can cause a hard sound. This is more critical with solid state (and essential with class D) than with tubes altough.
