Howdy All!
I've searched the inter-webby thing with no luck.
Does anyone know where I can find a source for tube socket "legs" (20-30 mm with M3 threads)?
Thanks!
Cheers,
NN
I've searched the inter-webby thing with no luck.
Does anyone know where I can find a source for tube socket "legs" (20-30 mm with M3 threads)?
Thanks!
Cheers,
NN
Last edited:
Howdy All!
I've searched the inter-webby thing with no luck.
Does anyone know where I can find a source for tube socket "legs" (20-30 mm with M3 threads)?
Thanks!
Cheers,
NN
Do you mean standoffs?
Try MSC, Grainger, and McMaster-Carr.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-standoffs/=edjy32
There are M3 threaded standoffs in a variety of lengths from 3mm to 52mm listed under the above link.
Digikey has M3 standoffs too. One could also use a long machine screw and a regular cylindrical standoff - or a piece of 1/8" pipe cut to size.
~Tom
~Tom
Not sure exactly what you mean. If you want to 'raise' the socket of a PCB, i.e. extend the socket legs, I've seen tubelab using pieces of thin brass tubing. But since you are asking for threaded M3, I suspect you want to stand off (or recess) the socket from the chassis opening.
In the absence of having anything other handy, I used pieces of stiff PVC hose (the kind used to connect fridge water dispensers to the water line). They are easily cut to size and compress a little when the screw/bolt is tightened. The result has a little 'play', which worked out fine for me, because the openings for the tubes I cut into the Lexan cover of one of my "temporary" enclosures were not exactly done (true DIY...), so little wiggle-room allows me to get the tubes in properly without causing stress on the sockets/PCB.
For a final, properly machined enclosure the threaded or vinyl/aluminium tube versions are certainly preferable.
In the absence of having anything other handy, I used pieces of stiff PVC hose (the kind used to connect fridge water dispensers to the water line). They are easily cut to size and compress a little when the screw/bolt is tightened. The result has a little 'play', which worked out fine for me, because the openings for the tubes I cut into the Lexan cover of one of my "temporary" enclosures were not exactly done (true DIY...), so little wiggle-room allows me to get the tubes in properly without causing stress on the sockets/PCB.
For a final, properly machined enclosure the threaded or vinyl/aluminium tube versions are certainly preferable.
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