I am seriously looking to build a SSE but will mount the tube sockets on the chassis rather than the PCB.
I used to be a licensed electronics tech and can build from a schematic, and have done so mamy times.
My question is that if I mount the tube sockets on the enclosure and run jumpers from the PCB will I introduce noise? BTW I will be using SS rectification. I am thinking it will be fine but my training is in repair not design.
Thanks.
David
I used to be a licensed electronics tech and can build from a schematic, and have done so mamy times.
My question is that if I mount the tube sockets on the enclosure and run jumpers from the PCB will I introduce noise? BTW I will be using SS rectification. I am thinking it will be fine but my training is in repair not design.
Thanks.
David
There are always people who say this can not be done. In some cases (tubes with high Gm) it is very hard to make work. In the case of the SSE, the odds of making an amp work with the tubes mounted off board are pretty good.
Assuming that your chassis, or top plate will be metal, keep the wires to the plate (pin 3) and grid (pin 5) on the output tube as close to the chassis as possible, and away from each other. Do the same with pins 1, 2, 6 and 7 on the 12AT7. The heater leads (pins 4,5 and 9 on the 12AT7, and pins 2 and 7 on the output tubes) should be lightly twisted and kept away from other wiring. I usually space them an inch of two away from the chassis deck.
You will hear that short neat wiring is needed to make this work. This will definitely improve the chance of success. How bad can it be and still work? Well I set out to try a little experiment several years ago to see if I could use some old TV tubes that have the driver (12AT7) and output tube in the same glass bottle. I started with a working SSE, two tubes mounted on a turret board and a bag full of clip leads. This thing actually worked very good on the first try.
Assuming that your chassis, or top plate will be metal, keep the wires to the plate (pin 3) and grid (pin 5) on the output tube as close to the chassis as possible, and away from each other. Do the same with pins 1, 2, 6 and 7 on the 12AT7. The heater leads (pins 4,5 and 9 on the 12AT7, and pins 2 and 7 on the output tubes) should be lightly twisted and kept away from other wiring. I usually space them an inch of two away from the chassis deck.
You will hear that short neat wiring is needed to make this work. This will definitely improve the chance of success. How bad can it be and still work? Well I set out to try a little experiment several years ago to see if I could use some old TV tubes that have the driver (12AT7) and output tube in the same glass bottle. I started with a working SSE, two tubes mounted on a turret board and a bag full of clip leads. This thing actually worked very good on the first try.
