Tripath questions not answered by the wiki, asked by an ignorant newbie.

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I am looking to power a Bose acoustimass 5 with a pair of SMSL SA-S3 amps. The Bose might be pricey, but is passive, will run 4-8 ohms and accept an amp betwixt 20-200 watt. I intend to use one SMSL when high volumes not needed and both when a fuller noisier sound is required. I am looking for inspiration (12-240v?) for a 200watt amp. Also, wiring and connex advice for the pair of SMSL's which will permit one, the other or both to be used (in parallel) with minimal faff.

All our power is from solar fed batteries and whilst I have a hefty inverter would like to remain DC as much as possible and only as energy hungry as required. Hence, two parallelised T-class amps as the larger units are 32v etc. I do want a hefty 200w amp for dj-ing or when power not a concern to stretch the legs of the Bose.

Please be gentle with me as my experience with fora typically involves a seasoned poster telling me my ideas are lamentable without a hint of cheerful help. I'm most keen to find the best way of taking a line imput from 3.5mm mini jack that will feed signal to one or both amps and confirmation that, whilst joining the output from both to the acoustimass module (amp1 ch1+ to amp2 ch1+ and amp1 ch1- to amp2 ch1- also amp1 ch2+ to amp2 ch2+ and amp1 ch2- to amp2 ch2- Then these combined inputs to the ch1+2 input on the Bose)- I think (maybe erroneously) that this will change the ohmage (within tolerances) but naught else is awry or needs modification.

In short-
1) how to split signal to feed a pair of amps?
2) any concerns parallelising amps as described?
3) suggestions for a good 200w 12v amp?
4) comments on the Bose- as it's draws for me are: sound, size, flexible input, ease of consumer installation.

Thank you in advance for you considered responses. And if a flaming is about to occur, can you use lube not sand. 😕

Edit note: Apologies if anyone viewed this post before I made a proper attempt to describe my proposed wiring scheme and if it comes across clunky or poorly described. I am, after all, an ignorant newbie.
 
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Bose Acoustimass??

I am not quite clear what info you are trying to ascertain. I don't know much about the unit beyond what I have seen on TV in passing.

Do you want more power to drive the Bose unit?

If this is the case you may be opting to power the unit beyond its design. If you are trying to replicate the acoustimass design on a larger scale then you should study transmission line speakers.

You have a lot of ideas in your message. In order to try to help, let's focus on one problem at a time.

What do you desire for an end result?

What will be the input?

What has to be powered by solar energy?

What are the amplifiers to power?

Preferably address the above one at a time.
 
Thanks Davet,

1) high quality audio that can be low power drain (small amp) or loud as #%^* (big amp large drain). I was hoping to make a middle ground with a pair of small amps. I have been disabused of my ideas from a number of sources now. Summing or parallelising the output of amps seems to be an expensive mistake. I will re task my second small amp for the back deck.

2) input. Computer, phone, iPod via minijack.

3) Everything is powered by solar. 1Kw photovoltaic into 660Ah of batteries @ 12v, hence my desire to remain at this DC voltage.

4) Amps to power Bose Acoustimass 5. Trying to take advantage of a speaker array which will accept an input range of 20-200w RMS BETWEEN 4-8 ohms. Hence the two amps.

I have accepted that parallelisation of amp outputs at best a ball ache and at worst catastrophically damaging. Now need to ensure that the Bose kit will ask 4ohms of the SMSL as it outputs 25w RMS @ 4ohms but only 13 plus change at 8ohms. Then, find an appropriate 200w RMS 12v car amp to use when volume required but restraint isn't.

Also, if the Bose unit won't be as flexible and neat as I hope, an equivalent that will. All thoughts gratefully considered.
 
Is that a typo or an insane setup?

Splitting can be done with a...... splitter. Look for '3.5mm splitter' on ebay.

I don't think that's a suitable speaker for outdoors to begin with. I'd say: don't waste any more money on it. Try getting high efficiency PA stuff, be it self build or finished. Power it with a SLA and 12v class D amp.
 
Lutkveld, the outdoors bit is a side project and the speakers stored in the dry when not in use. The rest is for the lounge. No typo, the 1Kw solar and batteries are the sum total of my electricity supply, not to power a stereo.

The small amp is in use, the big amp will be a D class but I'm up for input as to which one. What seems ever more uncertain is a neat satellite and sub set up that can be powered by one OR the other.

I think a lot of the uncertainty (bar my technical simplicity) is that most peoples electric power comes from the wall, mine must be harvested and it is not always in plentiful supply, hence wanting to be able run a small efficient amp.
 
PSU-power supply unit? None required, I'm 12v throughout the boat. I already have an SMSL SA-S3 powering some bulky (for the boat) Warfedale diamonds (6ohm). I want some neat, crystal clear satellites and a sub that runs at 4ohm and will be happy with the SA-S3 OR a hefty D class, because yes, sometimes I want it eye-wateringly loud.
 
Well. Thank you all for your considered responses. I now think that trying to solve a problem without understanding how stupid you are is a bit like trying to fix a puncture while you drive. A more productive approach might be to state my aims and requirements and see if any of the non-stupid are able to offer suggestions.

So- I think overpriced Bose with uncertain spec is most likely a bad idea. Therefore I need to build a system myself and would like advice.

I want a high quality flexible system that is comprised of-

1) a pair of full(ish) range 4ohm satellite(cube) speakers, about 20 watts RMS to be powered by my SMSL SA-S3 amp

2) a sub that can be turned on or off depending on whether the extra depth and volume is required.

Questions:- Are satellite speakers the best option? Space is limited but the walls are 12mm hardwood ply backed with fibreglass insulation with a cavity of about 60mm before the metal walls of the boat sprayed with foam insulation. What will be the best mix of utility, cost and look- satellite speakers or flush mounted drivers?

For the sub, am I best to look for an active unit or match a mono amp to a passive sub? What output is most appropriate? A million watts?

Connections, how do I split the signal from the source to the satellites and the sub, is this a Y-connector, a crossover or some, as yet, unheard of device?

And, lastly- brands/manufacturers for cubes/satellites, drivers, amps/and or sub.

I apologise if my lack of technical ability raises eyebrows, but once upon a time we all lacked knowledge. Many thanks to any who will take the time to rectify this lack.
 
Now I understand what you are trying to do.

1. I would suggest Tripath 2024 series amps. You could use one stereo amp for the subs and another amp for the mid/highs. Each provides approximately 15 watts per channel.

If you want a little more umph in the bass try a Tripath 2020 series which will give you up 25 watts per channel. If you really want more bass consider some of the more powerful class D amps.

Be mindful that the more power you use the greater the drain is on your power source. However, you can cut off the bass/sub amp when the extra bass isn't needed, and you can save a few watts of power.

2. Just use a splitter to go from the source to the various amps.

3. As to brands of amps and speakers I will leave that to others. I have had some success with a number of Tripath based amps, but I have tweaked them. So, they are just a little beyond off the shelf stock. However I have been satisfied with the Topping amps out of the box.

4. The sound of speakers tends to be very personal. Considering what you are trying to do - cost should be minimal. Try posting at Madisound.com for speaker suggestions. There is a wealth of talent at the site and as a company they have DIY suppliers as well as finished kits. People on the site may also be able to direct you to specific vendors, designs, or be able to help you design your system.

Another possible source is PartsExpress.com. This site also has people who frequent the site that may be able to help you.
 
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