Hello everybody,
i thought it would be easy to build up an amplifier with the tpa3122 from TI.
😀
I took the schematic from jerry electronics and also the values for the parts.
I build it on a breadboard but i didnt use the variabe resistor at the input stage.
Because i guess its just for volume adjustment.
I checked my curcuit on the breadboard for several times and i also tried another tpa3122 chip. But everytime i get the same result.
The speakers are just ticking.
The chip is powered with a variable voltage suplly from 10 to 30V @ 1A.
Can somebody help me with my problem?
Another question is: Can i use as input source for the tpa3122 a smartphone/laptop audio output?
Thanks a lot 🙂
Greetings,
Silent Bob
i thought it would be easy to build up an amplifier with the tpa3122 from TI.
😀
I took the schematic from jerry electronics and also the values for the parts.
I build it on a breadboard but i didnt use the variabe resistor at the input stage.
Because i guess its just for volume adjustment.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I checked my curcuit on the breadboard for several times and i also tried another tpa3122 chip. But everytime i get the same result.
The speakers are just ticking.
The chip is powered with a variable voltage suplly from 10 to 30V @ 1A.
Can somebody help me with my problem?
Another question is: Can i use as input source for the tpa3122 a smartphone/laptop audio output?
Thanks a lot 🙂
Greetings,
Silent Bob
Last edited:
Good Morning Bob,
The jpg you posted is really too small to read. If it is from a pdf, then zoom in until it is clear to you, grab a screen shot and paste to Paint. Crop what you don't need and save to a directory. Then post from that copy. After you have completed your post, go back and view it and compare the size with the jpg in Paint. Then you will know how big to make future jpg's. 🙂
Speakers just ticking may mean there is a short on the output somewhere and the IC is going into shutdown. (Or the power supply is going into current limit)
Check the schematic you are working from against the manufacturer's data sheet.
Check your components and check your connections and then power up and check the voltages.
Yes, you can drive the amp with the usual smartphone/laptop audio output.
Have fun.
The jpg you posted is really too small to read. If it is from a pdf, then zoom in until it is clear to you, grab a screen shot and paste to Paint. Crop what you don't need and save to a directory. Then post from that copy. After you have completed your post, go back and view it and compare the size with the jpg in Paint. Then you will know how big to make future jpg's. 🙂
Speakers just ticking may mean there is a short on the output somewhere and the IC is going into shutdown. (Or the power supply is going into current limit)
Check the schematic you are working from against the manufacturer's data sheet.
Check your components and check your connections and then power up and check the voltages.
Yes, you can drive the amp with the usual smartphone/laptop audio output.
Have fun.
Small value bypass caps need to be physically close to the chip.
Schematic might lead you to believe C5 would be nowhere close.
Just saying maybe look to an official TI EVM for some layout clues.
http://www.ti.com/litv/pdf/slou214a
Smartphone or PC audio output has never been a problem for me.
Though I do see 3.5mm audio cables go bad all the time in our lab.
This type cable made on the cheap, to sell on the cheap, go figure...
I had to throw 3 cables away last week, to stop my techs from
wasting time debugging EVMs that didn't actually have a problem..
Schematic might lead you to believe C5 would be nowhere close.
Just saying maybe look to an official TI EVM for some layout clues.
http://www.ti.com/litv/pdf/slou214a
Smartphone or PC audio output has never been a problem for me.
Though I do see 3.5mm audio cables go bad all the time in our lab.
This type cable made on the cheap, to sell on the cheap, go figure...
I had to throw 3 cables away last week, to stop my techs from
wasting time debugging EVMs that didn't actually have a problem..
Last edited:
I have had ticking on my tpa's before and they were caused by either a short somewhere on output side between ground pin and bootstrap cap, or a broken output lead that goes to inductor. If one side is bad both channels tick due to shutdown and restart I presume. Use a continuity checker with beep to probe output leads and bootstraps and make sure nothing is grounded. I had a solder bridge once. A fried (shorted) output stage cap can do this too. Make sure none of your caps conduct dc.
Hy again,
i build the curcuit again on my breadboard this time i pay attention of the caps.
Same result speackers are ticking.
I disconnected one of the speackers complete from the rest of the curcuit.
Still ticking of the other speacker.
But if i put now the cable from LOUT for a while on BSL and than back to
LOUT music plays.
Ok next i tried the same with the left speacker disconnected and same result music plays. So left and right cuircuit works in single mode, but not together.
If i connect the left/right speaker curcuit to the rest during the other speacker is playing. It stops to play and both are going to tick.
Next thing i tried is what happen if i turn off/on the power when only one speacker is connected and plays music. Result is a ticking again till i do "jumpstart" with the cable.
So i think there is something wrong with the bootstrap.
i build the curcuit again on my breadboard this time i pay attention of the caps.
Same result speackers are ticking.
I disconnected one of the speackers complete from the rest of the curcuit.
Still ticking of the other speacker.
But if i put now the cable from LOUT for a while on BSL and than back to
LOUT music plays.
Ok next i tried the same with the left speacker disconnected and same result music plays. So left and right cuircuit works in single mode, but not together.
If i connect the left/right speaker curcuit to the rest during the other speacker is playing. It stops to play and both are going to tick.
Next thing i tried is what happen if i turn off/on the power when only one speacker is connected and plays music. Result is a ticking again till i do "jumpstart" with the cable.
So i think there is something wrong with the bootstrap.
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