I pulled of the power to the t-amp to move it and when i powered it up again i just get an ticking sound from the speaker.
Is it blown?
I lights up and i tried to measure the volts and everythings looks fine.
Solve
Is it blown?
I lights up and i tried to measure the volts and everythings looks fine.
Solve
Are you sure that when moving you haven't crossed over speaker wires?
Sounds as if the protection circuits are clicking on and off.
Sounds as if the protection circuits are clicking on and off.
I checked everything i could.
I tested everything in my Marantz and there its ok just sound very
boring in compare...
I tested everything in my Marantz and there its ok just sound very
boring in compare...
I experienced the same thing; a faint clicking a little faster than 1 Hz on both channels and often changing a little in amplitude. Sometimes its barely audible, sometimes its plain irritating. I use a wallwart 12V 2A SMPS supply. Changing to a GC solved the ticking so it must be T-amp intrinsic. What could it be?
Clicking is the protection circuit. You must have an over current or over temperature problem, or both.
I haven't heard the ticking except in those situations.
I haven't heard the ticking except in those situations.
I have heard ticking and all sorts of goofy stuff after inadvertently grounding the - speaker outs on Tripath amps...all speaker outs NEED TO FLOAT...not be grounded...
Check for continuity from ground to neg (black) speaker out...or any of teh speaker outs for that matter...
Check for continuity from ground to neg (black) speaker out...or any of teh speaker outs for that matter...
Well...now i have two problems.
When testing around with the multimeter i shorten two of the diods,D1 and D3.One accident alwayes seems to follow by another one.Now i have to found an replacement for this http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/76233/MICROSEMI/MBRS130T3.html
Floating ground?When i measure from speaker black to the "big" ground on the bord its contact?
When testing around with the multimeter i shorten two of the diods,D1 and D3.One accident alwayes seems to follow by another one.Now i have to found an replacement for this http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/76233/MICROSEMI/MBRS130T3.html
Floating ground?When i measure from speaker black to the "big" ground on the bord its contact?
There should not be contact between the speaker outs and the chassis ground. All speaker outs should be floating - not connected to ground or each other. Independent connections.
Panomaniac --> can you confirm this - you are the subject matter expert...
You can disconnect the speaker outs from the case and see if it works...don't know about your diode issue.
Panomaniac --> can you confirm this - you are the subject matter expert...
You can disconnect the speaker outs from the case and see if it works...don't know about your diode issue.
It is possible that when the diodes across the outputs fail that they can be a short circuit.
This will activate the protection circuits.
This will activate the protection circuits.
But it was ticking/failing before he shorted the diodes...may have two problems now...
Try solving one at a time....
Try solving one at a time....
Yes, proberly because i broke the diods i have no floating ground anymore.I try to change the diods first, just want to know if i could find any equal to those?
I take is as an lesson to learn more 🙂
Proberly going to build one of 41hz kits later.
I take is as an lesson to learn more 🙂
Proberly going to build one of 41hz kits later.
I am not sure why the protection circuit would chime in in my particular situation. Easy drivers (Fostex 108ES), no overvoltage (12V), no overheating (lukewarm case at worst) while still playing wonderful music. If only the ticking wasn't there in between changing CDs. Any ideas? Why would the protection kick in?
O, and my amp is bone stock.
O, and my amp is bone stock.
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