I am currently looking for a large subwoofer that has the lowest frequency possible. The lowest I could find was an 18" driver made by Tumult that goes down to 15hz. Anyone know of any that go even lower?
Most any sub woofer will go much lower than that. It depends on what kind of enclosure you use.
If the enclosure and speaker are tuned to 10Hz, it'll go that low, even though the speaker has a higher rolloff..
It'll definitely be less efficient, but will still do the job.
If the enclosure and speaker are tuned to 10Hz, it'll go that low, even though the speaker has a higher rolloff..
It'll definitely be less efficient, but will still do the job.
blake_mooney said:The lowest I could find was an 18" driver made by Tumult that goes down to 15hz. Anyone know of any that go even lower?
Why?
Re: Re: The lowest frequency driver?
Because I love a sub that can hit really low frequencies, why do you think? No offense, but your post was totally pointless and not constructive at all.
Notax said:
Why?
Because I love a sub that can hit really low frequencies, why do you think? No offense, but your post was totally pointless and not constructive at all.
Bag End makes subs from 10" to 18" that will go down to 8hz flat with the use of the ELF integrator.
Otherwise...use a servo drive.
Otherwise...use a servo drive.
Zero Cool said:Bag End makes subs from 10" to 18" that will go down to 8hz flat with the use of the ELF integrator.
Otherwise...use a servo drive.
Oh awesome! 🙂 You wouldn't happen to have a link would you? And do they sell just raw drivers? I'm not looking for pre-built subs...
Btw, what is a "servo drive"?
Re: Re: Re: The lowest frequency driver?
No offence, but anything lower that 15 Hz is pointless, because:
1. You cant hear anything lower than 25 Hz, only feel shaking.
2. There is no recorded sounds at anything lower than 15 Hz.
3. To make some good SPL at lower than 15 Hz, you need transformer station with current od xxx Amper. 😀
4. If you do it anyway and use xxx Amper to shake it, you can put in danger your house. 😀
blake_mooney said:
Because I love a sub that can hit really low frequencies, why do you think? No offense, but your post was totally pointless and not constructive at all.
No offence, but anything lower that 15 Hz is pointless, because:
1. You cant hear anything lower than 25 Hz, only feel shaking.
2. There is no recorded sounds at anything lower than 15 Hz.
3. To make some good SPL at lower than 15 Hz, you need transformer station with current od xxx Amper. 😀
4. If you do it anyway and use xxx Amper to shake it, you can put in danger your house. 😀
I have a theory:
The really LF content excites harmonics in the structure itself causing the perception of the super low fundamental but tailored to your own space. I think this is where the air and extra soundstage that having good LF reproduction comes from.
There is no other way of exciting the natural harmonics of a fundamental in your house without being able to produce the fundamental at the proper volume.
The really LF content excites harmonics in the structure itself causing the perception of the super low fundamental but tailored to your own space. I think this is where the air and extra soundstage that having good LF reproduction comes from.
There is no other way of exciting the natural harmonics of a fundamental in your house without being able to produce the fundamental at the proper volume.
Re: Re: Re: Re: The lowest frequency driver?
My turn :
1. You can hear anything under 25 Hz if it's loud enough. Look at Fletcher Munsoon curves. BTW, feeling bass is nice also, even if you don't hear it. It's more realistic.
2. There's recorded sounds under 15 Hz. Telarc 1812 overture for example and SEVERAL movies.
3. I agree with you, you need alot of power, or lots of woofers with moderate power.
4. I agree with you, but worth the risk.
Notax said:
No offence, but anything lower that 15 Hz is pointless, because:
1. You cant hear anything lower than 25 Hz, only feel shaking.
2. There is no recorded sounds at anything lower than 15 Hz.
3. To make some good SPL at lower than 15 Hz, you need transformer station with current od xxx Amper. 😀
4. If you do it anyway and use xxx Amper to shake it, you can put in danger your house. 😀
My turn :
1. You can hear anything under 25 Hz if it's loud enough. Look at Fletcher Munsoon curves. BTW, feeling bass is nice also, even if you don't hear it. It's more realistic.
2. There's recorded sounds under 15 Hz. Telarc 1812 overture for example and SEVERAL movies.
3. I agree with you, you need alot of power, or lots of woofers with moderate power.
4. I agree with you, but worth the risk.
blake_mooney said:I am currently looking for a large subwoofer that has the lowest frequency possible. The lowest I could find was an 18" driver made by Tumult that goes down to 15hz. Anyone know of any that go even lower?
If you're rich, there's a "fan" subwoofer, flat down to 1 Hz.
http://www.eminent-tech.com/RWbrochure.htm
Or the Diatone D-160, if you can find one in a museum or something hehe! 8 Hz, probably the lowest ever built.
This is more acceptable, 14.6 Hz. Not sure if it's in production yet.
http://www.ascendantaudio.com/allliance_page.html
Nearly any high excursion / high power LF driver can be made to work in regions below 15 Hz. Just a question of filtering and amplification. Filtering means: inverse the natural rolloff of the speaker in its enclosure.
blake_mooney said:I am currently looking for a large subwoofer that has the lowest frequency possible. The lowest I could find was an 18" driver made by Tumult that goes down to 15hz. Anyone know of any that go even lower?
You can try with Tumult 18D2. Make closed box for Qtc=0.55-0.60. About 210-280 litter. Active: active crossover + power modul. And when I said power modul, its something like 2-3 kW or . + equalisation at low end. See at Linkwitz.
active filters
At very low freq (10-18 Hz) you can espect very long excursion and not so high SPL (in fact low-to-medium earthquake 😀).
Good luck.
Throw some bass shakers in your chair/couch whatever. I augment my large pair of sub's with these. Trick is finding right volume level with them. The effect, when done properly, is very satisfying. Thier cheap too. 

Blake,
When Notax asked you why, he was doing so for a reason. If he hadn't asked you, I might have.
quote:
"Because I love a sub that can hit really low frequencies, why do you think?"
Others have already stated why you might not need this type of FR. Don't start spending your money until you really know what you want. To say you want 15 Hz and below imples experience with that type of frequency. Having read a number of your other posts, I would suggest holding off on getting something like that at this stage. This is for your HT project in the basement?
When Notax asked you why, he was doing so for a reason. If he hadn't asked you, I might have.
quote:
"Because I love a sub that can hit really low frequencies, why do you think?"
Others have already stated why you might not need this type of FR. Don't start spending your money until you really know what you want. To say you want 15 Hz and below imples experience with that type of frequency. Having read a number of your other posts, I would suggest holding off on getting something like that at this stage. This is for your HT project in the basement?
Cal Weldon said:Blake,
When Notax asked you why, he was doing so for a reason. If he hadn't asked you, I might have.
quote:
"Because I love a sub that can hit really low frequencies, why do you think?"
Others have already stated why you might not need this type of FR. Don't start spending your money until you really know what you want. To say you want 15 Hz and below imples experience with that type of frequency. Having read a number of your other posts, I would suggest holding off on getting something like that at this stage. This is for your HT project in the basement?
Why would I hold off? I've noticed that when I usually have a question regarding speakers that I have in mind to build, people always recommend holding off or doing something else. The reason I asked is because I want to build them, and I am going to build them. Why do people feel the need to tell me to do otherwise?
(also, just saying "Why?" is quite vague to say the least)
simon5 already corrected a few, I'll touch on one more.
For the OP, a large, low tuned ported sub with a SS RLp15 will get you what you want - it's the only suitable driver available at the moment. I've seen your same post at AVS, so you're probably aware of the numerous RLp15 designs people have already built.
You're assuming a sealed design, or lack of multiple drivers. My large ported sonosub is strong and flat to 10hz, and it is amp limited at 600 watts, which equates to a max anechoic output ~115db, and is by no means a lot of power. It is most efficient in the low teens, and will deliver useful output in this region with very little power.3. To make some good SPL at lower than 15 Hz, you need transformer station with current od xxx Amper.
18" Tumults aren't available yet (if ever).You can try with Tumult 18D2
For the OP, a large, low tuned ported sub with a SS RLp15 will get you what you want - it's the only suitable driver available at the moment. I've seen your same post at AVS, so you're probably aware of the numerous RLp15 designs people have already built.
Blake,
I don't know if we are trying to discourage you as much as steer you in the right direction.
The question was honest. If you are not able to answer it with anything more than you did, I humbly suggest you don't need 15 Hz, you just want 15 Hz, and there's a big difference.
I don't think anyone will criticize you for building this, it's just that sometimes you can get a better sound for the dollars spent or equal sound for less, if you don't concentrate on the numbers so much.
15 Hz and below is an unecessary goal. Lots of dollars spent to accurately reproduce it and you sure aren't going to get much use out of it.
quote from tade:
"There is no other way of exciting the natural harmonics of a fundamental in your house without being able to produce the fundamental at the proper volume."
While tade is IMHO very correct in this point, I not sure I see the relevance when to achieve a "proper volume" we are talking something that will rattle a house, which has nothing to do with the source and can only interfere with what you are hoping to hear.
I don't know if we are trying to discourage you as much as steer you in the right direction.
The question was honest. If you are not able to answer it with anything more than you did, I humbly suggest you don't need 15 Hz, you just want 15 Hz, and there's a big difference.
I don't think anyone will criticize you for building this, it's just that sometimes you can get a better sound for the dollars spent or equal sound for less, if you don't concentrate on the numbers so much.
15 Hz and below is an unecessary goal. Lots of dollars spent to accurately reproduce it and you sure aren't going to get much use out of it.
quote from tade:
"There is no other way of exciting the natural harmonics of a fundamental in your house without being able to produce the fundamental at the proper volume."
While tade is IMHO very correct in this point, I not sure I see the relevance when to achieve a "proper volume" we are talking something that will rattle a house, which has nothing to do with the source and can only interfere with what you are hoping to hear.
SteveCallas said:simon5 already corrected a few, I'll touch on one more.
You're assuming a sealed design, or lack of multiple drivers. My large ported sonosub is strong and flat to 10hz, and it is amp limited at 600 watts, which equates to a max anechoic output ~115db, and is by no means a lot of power. It is most efficient in the low teens, and will deliver useful output in this region with very little power.
10 Hz, 115 dB, 600 W. How you know this?
For 600 W is OK, but other two, how you come to this?
Give mi some data. Bass driver unit, and enclosure, and I can give some comment.
This?
http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/
http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/design2.html
http://www.quux.net/roo/diy/sonosub/design4.html
Attachments
wow, what a lot of negativity! The ugly underbelly of DIYAudio is showing itself!
I was reading a review of some super $$$$ subwoofers and they showed the spectral decay graphs of their sample tracks. One sample was from Blackhawk Down, the "****ing Irene" scene when a bunch of helicopters take off and the rotors are thumping away big time...
There was a HUGE fundamental at 7Hz and a big harmonic somewhere around 18Hz...
It takes something special as far as the subwoofer goes to reproduce that, and the electronics are probably going to be super high dollar or DIY to get there, but it is present in SOME recordings...
If a person wants to spend the money and time to get his house shaken to bits, why try to discourage him or tell him to wait?
By the way, I reccommend that the OP take a look at the Cult of the Infinately Baffled to see if an IB setup might tickle his fancy.
I was reading a review of some super $$$$ subwoofers and they showed the spectral decay graphs of their sample tracks. One sample was from Blackhawk Down, the "****ing Irene" scene when a bunch of helicopters take off and the rotors are thumping away big time...
There was a HUGE fundamental at 7Hz and a big harmonic somewhere around 18Hz...
It takes something special as far as the subwoofer goes to reproduce that, and the electronics are probably going to be super high dollar or DIY to get there, but it is present in SOME recordings...
If a person wants to spend the money and time to get his house shaken to bits, why try to discourage him or tell him to wait?
By the way, I reccommend that the OP take a look at the Cult of the Infinately Baffled to see if an IB setup might tickle his fancy.
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