When DIY amp/preamp aluminum cabinets need text marking, how to proceed to get a decent (and scratch-proof) look?
Jacques
Jacques
It is not easy to get professional looking results.
Best bet is to get a local company to screen print it.
Best bet is to get a local company to screen print it.
Using a laser printer reverse print on a plastic sheet and use clear contact cement to attach it.
Or reverse print onto "release" paper and iron it on. You can fake 'release" paper by coating a sheet of regular paper with white (Elmers) glue, but it is tricky.
Or reverse print onto "release" paper and iron it on. You can fake 'release" paper by coating a sheet of regular paper with white (Elmers) glue, but it is tricky.
On anodised or etched aluminum (e.g. thin auto-adhesive sheets) on can write with Rotring-pen and protect it with transparent varnish.
Cheap cost/cheap looking: Marker pen
Semi-Cheap/decent looking: Custom stickers on clear vinyl backing, tough, scratch proof, unless you peel the stickers. But it's very hard to peel. If for a one-off project, not economically feasible. If you're selling hundreds, very cheap cost. Multi-colors, gradients, etc, possible.
Semi-cheap/decent looking: Silkscreen. May be expensive for a one-off project. unless you do it yourself.
Expensive/pro-looking: CNC engraving with paint-fill. Can be done on one-off projects. Did I mention expensive?
I recently read a web page that used a laser printer to print reversed text on a sheet of parchment paper. This was then rubbed off onto the metal surface and then coated over with a clear sealer. Supposedly the parchment paper has a silicone coating, so the text releases easier.
Aha, found the link again:
http://rick.sparber.org/ttm.pdf
Very neat!
I am already an "expert" in laser-PCB printing and these are excellent tips to experiment on laser-metal printing. Many thanks,
Jacques
Look for a graphics shop with a UV printer. The finished print is extremely durable as is (ie. without the need for a protective barrier like, for example, screen print).
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Many folk make their own pcb using toner transfer - I'm surprised this guys research didn't turn up this approach. There are toner transfer papers you can buy for the purpose instead of messing with kitchen paper. I found that the best approach was to use glossy magazine paper - feed that in the printer. The glossy surface doesn't absorb the toner. I transfer it to the metal side of the pcb using the heat of a clothes iron. Then soak the paper in warm water and it will dissolve away to leave the toner on the copper.
Take it to a trophy shop that has an engraving machine. Getting the layout right may be difficult, since they mainly do small labels with a few lines of text. Might be better to have them make separate labels on brass, mount them with attractive screws. Or, possibly in this century they'll have a way for you to create the layout yourself.
Then there's Letraset... spray with lacquer or varnish to protect it.
Then there's Letraset... spray with lacquer or varnish to protect it.
A UK company called Letraset makes a clear self stick film product called Safmat, which you can print on with a laser printer. I've had some reasonable results laying out a full scale control panel and printing my black text on this product with a laser printer, peeling its backing, and sticking it onto a light finishes like Aluminum. Then, to add scratch resistance, you can place another layer over the entire first label, kind of like laminating. It will result in a gloss finish unless your top layer a matte finish version, which I don't think they make. AND... you have to be careful when applying the second layer to avoid trapping air bubbles. But with a little practice I was able to get a decent result. There's more than one way to skin this cat, but as others have alluded, the closer to a 'factory made" look you want, the harder it gets to do at home.
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