I have a 12v power supply and a car stereo on my bench for testing amplifiers. I would like to add a 12v battery that will feed constant power to the radio so I don't have to reset all the settings every time I turn off the power supply. I would also like the power supply to charge the battery. What do I need to do?
There are many ways to do this.
I would suggest having a switch to break the connection to the battery. You can make the connections when needed but I use a cutoff switch like they use for racing for emergency cutoff.
For normal charging (when not using it for am testing), I use a diode and an indicator lamp). It produces a maintenance charge when your 12v supply is on and will charge when the cutoff switch is off.
A wall wart may be enough for the head unit. If not, you can find $15 supplies on ebay that will. Search for the following. I'm not recommending that you buy this supply. It's simply one option:
60W Power Supply Adjustable DC 3V-24V 12V Variable Universal AC DC Adapter
Bear in mind that the battery will only be for peaks of high current. After you draw hard from it for a while, the current from the DC power supply will go to charge the battery. I have a lot of 12v supplies but had to have the battery for the JL 1000s that I saw regularly. The supplies could run it at low to moderate power but startup and hard driving caused it to go into protect.
There are a lot of options for high current supplies. What you use will depend on your budget and the amps you repair... and the length of time you burn them in.
Much of this is in the tutorial but I don't know what version you have. Look on the Equipment page under item #1.
I uploaded the tutorial up to the point I wanted to get. Email me if you want the update;
babin_perry@yahoo.com
I would suggest having a switch to break the connection to the battery. You can make the connections when needed but I use a cutoff switch like they use for racing for emergency cutoff.
For normal charging (when not using it for am testing), I use a diode and an indicator lamp). It produces a maintenance charge when your 12v supply is on and will charge when the cutoff switch is off.
A wall wart may be enough for the head unit. If not, you can find $15 supplies on ebay that will. Search for the following. I'm not recommending that you buy this supply. It's simply one option:
60W Power Supply Adjustable DC 3V-24V 12V Variable Universal AC DC Adapter
Bear in mind that the battery will only be for peaks of high current. After you draw hard from it for a while, the current from the DC power supply will go to charge the battery. I have a lot of 12v supplies but had to have the battery for the JL 1000s that I saw regularly. The supplies could run it at low to moderate power but startup and hard driving caused it to go into protect.
There are a lot of options for high current supplies. What you use will depend on your budget and the amps you repair... and the length of time you burn them in.
Much of this is in the tutorial but I don't know what version you have. Look on the Equipment page under item #1.
I uploaded the tutorial up to the point I wanted to get. Email me if you want the update;
babin_perry@yahoo.com