Received my SP-25, and it does appear it is basically the same as a SL-1200, at least electrically.
Disassembled the turntable cleaned with soap and water sanded the rough spots with 400 wet dry and finished with 600 wet dry. Removed the transformer and built a CRCCRC power supply, unfortunately I didn’t check the secondary A.C. which was 37.5 VAC and it took out one of my 3300uf 50 volt caps. Replaced them with some 100v caps with lesser UF values, my house voltage is 120vac, which is probably higher than the unit was originally designed for. If making this modification I would recommend 63 volt caps at a minimum. Currently output with the CRCCRC filter with 17.5 ohms resistance and 3.6k bleeder getting an output of 49.5 volts. Will see what it loads down to when I get the TT back together, as it is currently disassembled for painting. I think it is fortunate that I decided to remove and remote the P.S. as I don’t think the 470UF 50v cap install on the original board would have survived for long. Thanks to 6L6 and others for the post on this modification.
Disassembled the turntable cleaned with soap and water sanded the rough spots with 400 wet dry and finished with 600 wet dry. Removed the transformer and built a CRCCRC power supply, unfortunately I didn’t check the secondary A.C. which was 37.5 VAC and it took out one of my 3300uf 50 volt caps. Replaced them with some 100v caps with lesser UF values, my house voltage is 120vac, which is probably higher than the unit was originally designed for. If making this modification I would recommend 63 volt caps at a minimum. Currently output with the CRCCRC filter with 17.5 ohms resistance and 3.6k bleeder getting an output of 49.5 volts. Will see what it loads down to when I get the TT back together, as it is currently disassembled for painting. I think it is fortunate that I decided to remove and remote the P.S. as I don’t think the 470UF 50v cap install on the original board would have survived for long. Thanks to 6L6 and others for the post on this modification.
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Paint prep sanded the chassis and platter rough spots with 400 wet dry and finished with 600 wet dry. Filled spots that didn’t sand out without cutting into the metal with bondo glazing and spot putty, sand with wet dry 600. Ordered from Automotive Touchup, aerosol cans of base coat in the color of my Ford pickup, aerosol cans of high gloss clear coat, spray can of grey primer, prep solvent, and aerosol spray can trigger. Masked off parts of chassis and platter I didn’t want painted then cleaned the chassis and platter with the prep solvent. Primed the parts with primer, sand with 600 wet dry between coats (ensure the coats are dry to the touch 15 to 30 minutes) I sprayed three primer coats. Sprayed 4 coats of base coat allowing dry to the touch between each coat around 15 minutes between coats. Wait at least 30 minutes then sprayed 5 clear coat allowing dry to the touch between coats. Dry time varies with temperature humidity.
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