Please pardon my ignorance, this newbie is trying to learn about all aspect of loudspeaker building.
I am converting a bedroom into a music and video room, it measures 15ft wide (speaker wall) and 16ft deep. Ceiling is 8ft at the speakers wall gradually raise to 10ft. I have no problem using sub woofer to help the low end.
As a first time newbie, using full range like W8-1808 may be the easiest way to get involved. I can use a single W8-1808 for each of the five channels. I am thinking to build enclosures for the center and side speakers, 67" x 12" x 8" deep, or about 3.3ft3 as recommended for ported, and hang on walls. For the L & R, open baffle, perhaps add woofer or even super tweeter.
Questions:
1. Being full range, does it mean that one can simply connect amp to speaker? or some sort of protection etc will still be required?
2. Being open baffle, it basically mount on a panel, does the width or shape of panel play a role?
3. The L & R will often call upon to play simple 2 channel stereo, with or without subwoofer help. How much will 1808 benefit from having say super tweeter or woofers? In case of 2 or 3 ways, if I would to use miniDSP, that would eliminated the need for crossover or do the crossover after playing with miniDSP?
3. Assuming the sub cutoff at 100hz, can single driver main handle movie tracks?
Thanks for helping.
I am converting a bedroom into a music and video room, it measures 15ft wide (speaker wall) and 16ft deep. Ceiling is 8ft at the speakers wall gradually raise to 10ft. I have no problem using sub woofer to help the low end.
As a first time newbie, using full range like W8-1808 may be the easiest way to get involved. I can use a single W8-1808 for each of the five channels. I am thinking to build enclosures for the center and side speakers, 67" x 12" x 8" deep, or about 3.3ft3 as recommended for ported, and hang on walls. For the L & R, open baffle, perhaps add woofer or even super tweeter.
Questions:
1. Being full range, does it mean that one can simply connect amp to speaker? or some sort of protection etc will still be required?
2. Being open baffle, it basically mount on a panel, does the width or shape of panel play a role?
3. The L & R will often call upon to play simple 2 channel stereo, with or without subwoofer help. How much will 1808 benefit from having say super tweeter or woofers? In case of 2 or 3 ways, if I would to use miniDSP, that would eliminated the need for crossover or do the crossover after playing with miniDSP?
3. Assuming the sub cutoff at 100hz, can single driver main handle movie tracks?
Thanks for helping.
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You will need EQ (or that miniDSP) to help the W8. There are a few peaks to tame before it starts sounding good.
The W8 will not reach 100Hz on an open baffle. It will need a woofer's help. Combine with a woofer, you can reach that 100Hz then pass it along the sub(s).
If you use the 1772, your side and center enclosures will be much smaller (if that matters to you), the 1808 needs bigger enclosures.
I would use the miniDSP or something active/passive to keep the low end out of the 1808. Especially if listening to movies.
PureAudioProject has some nice examples of kit based OB setups. Could give you some ideas...
The W8 will not reach 100Hz on an open baffle. It will need a woofer's help. Combine with a woofer, you can reach that 100Hz then pass it along the sub(s).
If you use the 1772, your side and center enclosures will be much smaller (if that matters to you), the 1808 needs bigger enclosures.
I would use the miniDSP or something active/passive to keep the low end out of the 1808. Especially if listening to movies.
PureAudioProject has some nice examples of kit based OB setups. Could give you some ideas...
Not saying anything against the Tang Band, but have you looked into Mark Audio drivers? I've built a few different speakers with Mark Audio drivers and have yet to be disappointed.
My current favorite is a Mark Audio Alpair 7 in a Fruge-horn. Simply amazing and far more bass than you would ever expect from a four inch driver. I use mine in a room similar to what you describe and it easily fills the room with outstanding sound. There are plenty of other builds that will give you sound quality that will simply amaze.
Mike
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_str=Markaudio
The Frugel-Horn
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
My current favorite is a Mark Audio Alpair 7 in a Fruge-horn. Simply amazing and far more bass than you would ever expect from a four inch driver. I use mine in a room similar to what you describe and it easily fills the room with outstanding sound. There are plenty of other builds that will give you sound quality that will simply amaze.
Mike
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_str=Markaudio
The Frugel-Horn
Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio
We have the TB W8-1808 in an MLTL cabinet in our bedroom, and it performs very well in this role, but we favor a 3-way for HT and main stereo.
For HT, you could also consider 3-way Left+Right, plus 2-way ported (42Hz) Center. Similar 2-way or 3-way rear channels can be added later. You will find several proven 2 and 3 way designs using the SB Acoustics 29RDC-4 tweeter and SB17NRXC35-8 midrange, with either 8" SB23NRX45-8 woofer or low cost 12" Dayton DS315S-8 woofer. One proven design from Parts Express Tech forum uses common 8.5" wide cabinets. There are 3-way designs with both front and side woofer mounting.
Good quality recordings maintain stereo bass phase effects down to 20Hz. Expert listeners favor stereo woofers.
For HT, you could also consider 3-way Left+Right, plus 2-way ported (42Hz) Center. Similar 2-way or 3-way rear channels can be added later. You will find several proven 2 and 3 way designs using the SB Acoustics 29RDC-4 tweeter and SB17NRXC35-8 midrange, with either 8" SB23NRX45-8 woofer or low cost 12" Dayton DS315S-8 woofer. One proven design from Parts Express Tech forum uses common 8.5" wide cabinets. There are 3-way designs with both front and side woofer mounting.
Good quality recordings maintain stereo bass phase effects down to 20Hz. Expert listeners favor stereo woofers.
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The two rear or side certainly can benefit from smaller enclosure, thx for the recommendation. Do rear and center need lots of bass? I think i would get away with just a full range? So I can just connect power amp to full range without anything in between? EQ by miniDSP or just whatever EQ comes with receivers these days.
PureAudioProject has one model that uses 1808 with two 15" woofer in wfw setup, looked mighty impressive, would that be an overkill for my small room? how far a distance would this 1808+2x15" needed from back and side wall? Considering my room is only 15ft wide and screen is 7ft wide, I may not have enough real estate.
Use smaller drivers if you want to use this in a home theater applications. The larger drivers tend to beam.
I don't think the center or mains need to be more bass capable .
Whatever you do , aim for a response of 70-80 Hz or lower to make subwoofer integration easier
I don't think the center or mains need to be more bass capable .
Whatever you do , aim for a response of 70-80 Hz or lower to make subwoofer integration easier
If I remember well, the big OBs need to be 36" off the backwall, and more is often (but not always) better.
Something to consider:
I am playing with a different kind of combination at the moment that might be good for your small room. Check out xrk971 "10F/RS225 FAST" thread.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/273524-10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-ref-monitor.html
A smaller 3" driver (10F8424 or TC9FD if needs to be cheaper but still very good) and a 8" subwoofer, both in OB. The TB W8 drivers do beam, but it's not as bad as some other companies. But yes, a 3" driver will give you a wider sweet spot. Adding a pair of 8" subs gives a satisfying low end. It's not going to crack the walls, but it's deep enough for low notes, like pipe organ... without the windows rattling.
One last thing... there is a LOT of information going to the center speaker. So, don't skimp on that one thinking having good L/R mains and a whimpy center will do. Having L/C/R all the same will provide a nice balance of staging in front. Smaller surrounds, with the bass redirected to the sub(s) are ok, especially in a small room.
About being beamy, this is a review on PureAudioProject's Trio featuring 1808 and two 15" woofers. The author noticed 1808 being rather beamy. If one would to use a smaller full range on open baffle, wouldn't that make subwoofer integration even more challenging?
PureAudioProject Trio 15 TB Speaker Forget Class A, this rates OMG$$$. Review By Rick Becker
Thx Godzilla, how does determine the size of that baffle? Does it even matter?
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schalmei with TB 1772 8"
take better the TB 1772 and use the Schalmei, no crossover, down 90 Hz.
Schalmei-Sat
take better the TB 1772 and use the Schalmei, no crossover, down 90 Hz.
Schalmei-Sat
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