Tangband W3-593 Cabinet - I think something is not right

[truebass]

Hello.

I've made an enclosure for a pair of bookshelf speakers i'm currently planning to complete.

First the cabinet was designed for the W3-594,but i got a really AWFUL sound result putting this driver into the cabinet,so i proceed putting a 593 in it even if the cabinet doesn't seem to feat with the 593 very well.

The design was based to a TB project i found on the web but the cabinet was seem to be right for the 594 with some calculations i've made.

My listening conclusion with the 593 in it was great,but i found the sound a little bit "empty",and i don't really know what's wrong,the cabinet or just the driver is crappy.

All i need is a little bit more noticeable midrange and low frequencies,at least down to 100-120hz.

NOTE that i'm using an amplifier which doesn't have any frequency adjustments,bass or treble,however some other speakers on that amplifier are sounding "full" range.

Also i have made a 3cm hole for bass reflex pipe,but i haven't placed one yet,and maybe this is the problem.

This is the cabinet's size: 9.84" x 5.90" x 7.08" or 25 x 15 x 18cm with 10mm MDF.

Does anybody have any idea about what's wrong and what can i do to improve the sound?

Thanks.

 

[Inductor]

I run a simulation for the TB W3-593SF and for a box of internal volume 4.63L just like yours, it shows tuning frequency to be 63Hz and F3=56Hz 3cm hole needs BR pipe ~9cm (adjust). I find power to be null with small Xmas excursion of 0.5mm (distortion w/bigger excursion). Max power should be for Xlim/Xmech. 12W of power give a max. escursion of 10/13mm peak.

Do you know about this SUB, with 3.5x Xmax?
TB SUSERIES W3-1750S

 

[truebass]

Thanks for your research and your reply.🙂

I've made some modifications to the bass reflex,i put a 3.5cm diameter with 8.5cm deep bass reflex.

The result was somewhat better but still the sound is completely "empty" and you can tell the speaker is there,i mean it isn't transparent at all.

I put the driver into a bigger cabinet,smaller,and i played hours with the bass reflex,but it seems that this thing cannot being saved by anything,it's just cheap,and on high volume unacceptable due to high distortion cause of the high coil vibration which just moves and hits everywhere.

I've read some reviews before i proceed with the project,and the 95% of them was positive for this driver,but the negative was saying exactly what i noticed with that driver,so next time i will take the negative reviews more serious.

Thanks about the suggestion of the 3" subwoofer,but if i finally proceed with another project,i'm going to get something bigger like 4"-5".🙂

 

[Inductor]

I found power to be null with small Xmas excursion of 0,5mm (distortion w/bigger excursion)...
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Of no use...

Thanks about the suggestion of the 3" subwoofer,but if i finally proceed with another project,i'm going to get something bigger like 4"-5".🙂

Did you know about this driver, if a 5" FR
TB W5-1611SA

I've read some reviews before i proceed with the project,and the 95% of them was positive for this driver,but the negative was saying exactly what i noticed with that driver,so next time i will take the negative reviews more serious.

If you do the simulations yourself before executing you can find big no nos.

Look at this thread maybe something in it you like
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/164669-2-3-way-speaker-bi-amping.html#post2146172

for what you're proposing, I'd suggest using a full range driver such as the Fostex FF85K, crossed over at ~ 200Hz (or baffle step freq) to woofers of your choice will give max benefit of biamping

 

[truebass]

Thanks dude,i'll check it. 🙂