It plays fine no issue but it feels like its running hot to the touch even at idle. Is this normal??
What part of the heatsink warms up the quickest (from when it's room temperature, no audio in, no load)?
Defective driver components. Sometimes the driver transistors open or become leaky but all of the driver components beyond the driver transformers need to be carefully checked.
I assumed that you had repaired it and there was a problem. If the amp has never been repaired, there may be other problems.
I assumed that you had repaired it and there was a problem. If the amp has never been repaired, there may be other problems.
I've never opened. Its been on my shelve for a while. I just sold it but before I powered it up to test it. I notice it was warm but didnt think anything of it. Now I have to refund the buyer and figure out whats wrong.
Perry I sent you a picture of the inside for your records. Layout looks the same but there are a few differences. Upon opening I notice a single strand if wire near the output driver card. So far its been on maybe 10 minutes and its not even warm yet.
Something is differently wrong. With no input and a sub woofer connected the subwoofer will play a low frequency wave. Adjusting the crossover changes the frequency. If I touch the rca ground sheild the amp/ speaker cuts on and off making a lound noise.
I opened the amp up and noticed 2 of the large capacitors seem loose. If I hold/ move the 2 in a certain position the subwoofer stops playing that frequency.
I opened the amp up and noticed 2 of the large capacitors seem loose. If I hold/ move the 2 in a certain position the subwoofer stops playing that frequency.
Have you pulled the board to see if the solder connections are broken?
If so, you need to pull them to see how badly the board is damaged. Sometimes the arcing between the cap terminals and the board causes a fair bit of damage.
If so, you need to pull them to see how badly the board is damaged. Sometimes the arcing between the cap terminals and the board causes a fair bit of damage.
2 of them were loose. I attempted to fix them. After getting it together it still has the same problem. The speaker moves in and out. If I touch the top of the large capacitor the speaker appears to stop moving.
I removed one of the caps. The board seemed fine. Ill try and pull the next one. Im a little frustrated. It took almost 30minutes to get one out. The solder did not want to flow
I removed one of the caps. The board seemed fine. Ill try and pull the next one. Im a little frustrated. It took almost 30minutes to get one out. The solder did not want to flow
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Are the traces (not the pads) for the caps on the bottom of the board or on the top of the board?
If the vias are burned or broken out and the trace is on the top of the board, soldering to the pad on the bottom may not actually connect the cap to the circuit.
If the vias are burned or broken out and the trace is on the top of the board, soldering to the pad on the bottom may not actually connect the cap to the circuit.
The board has pads and traces on both side.
If I touch the rca ground shields the speark will play a loud burst then turn off and on. I also noticed even without touch shields when I put my had close to shields it will effects the output also.
I am really lost and not sure where to look.
If I touch the rca ground shields the speark will play a loud burst then turn off and on. I also noticed even without touch shields when I put my had close to shields it will effects the output also.
I am really lost and not sure where to look.
With the caps soldered in and the RCAs connected to a signal source that's grounded to the 12v power supply, does the amp play normally?
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