Switchcraft Mains DPDT Rocker Switch to fit XLR hole | Hifi Collective
I have a pair of these going into the front panel of my new PSU (Heater and HT) and was very dissappointed with the cheap, low-temperature plastic used. The solder tags are quite large and soldering the second cable onto the last tag of the second switch yesterday the solder tag just pulled out of the switch !
Nick at HFC was very understanding and is shipping out a replacement, but I have to say I'm concerned about using them at all now.
Anyone else had similar issues ? What's a good quality switch to use (this is 250V, before the primary transformers (separate Transformers for HT and HEATERS).
I have a pair of these going into the front panel of my new PSU (Heater and HT) and was very dissappointed with the cheap, low-temperature plastic used. The solder tags are quite large and soldering the second cable onto the last tag of the second switch yesterday the solder tag just pulled out of the switch !
Nick at HFC was very understanding and is shipping out a replacement, but I have to say I'm concerned about using them at all now.
Anyone else had similar issues ? What's a good quality switch to use (this is 250V, before the primary transformers (separate Transformers for HT and HEATERS).
It looks like the switch was designed to use push-on connectors. Not designed for solder connections.
Good call! A lot of power switches are made that way - with tab-style terminals that are a male connector designed to mate with a female connector that is commonly used with power wiring.
If one feels compelled to solder these, it can often be done without damaging them.
(1) Use a soldering iron that is large enough to do the job quickly (40-60 watts) and uses feedback from an actual measurement of the tip temperature for control (Hakko for example)
(2) Tin the terminals and the wires before attaching them.
(3) Metal clips or hemostats can be used as heat sinks to protect the plastic body of the switch. Place them at the base of the terminal, below the area to be soldered.
(4) Consider the use of a lower temperature solder, at least a eutectic tin-lead alloy.
One must use a good quality high temperature soldering iron to solder the terminals or Lucar Spade connectors.
One can easily halve the cost of these switches by using a known good supplier; EHRRSLB Switchcraft | Mouser
Less than 1 minute with Google
One can easily halve the cost of these switches by using a known good supplier; EHRRSLB Switchcraft | Mouser
Less than 1 minute with Google
HAHA. Been told there are a lot of fakes about - anyone know how to tell >? Apart from don't buy from ebay ...
Soldering Tools and Combo HAKKO FX-888D Soldering Iron - HeliPal
Googling indicates these guys are the official UK distributors ?
Dancap Electronics - FX888D Digital Price List
Dancap Electronics - FX888D Digital Price List
At that price point I would rather have this Ersa iron as it has induction heating technology, which is more responsive and powerful.
I-CON PICO - ERSA - SOLDERING STATION, 80W, 240V, EU | Farnell element14
Farnell used to sell the UK plug version too, not sure why they don't now. Just cut the EU plug off and wire a UK plug on.
I-CON PICO - ERSA - SOLDERING STATION, 80W, 240V, EU | Farnell element14
Farnell used to sell the UK plug version too, not sure why they don't now. Just cut the EU plug off and wire a UK plug on.
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Wow.
I HAD a Xytronic LF-1000 station for a few years, it broke on me during my build. I went for a quick "pop to Maplins" and got their £45 job.
The Hakko is an eye-opener !
I HAD a Xytronic LF-1000 station for a few years, it broke on me during my build. I went for a quick "pop to Maplins" and got their £45 job.
The Hakko is an eye-opener !
if switch melts at 2 seconds at 270C i wouldnt use it anyway it just says its not very good made. i always solder on this switches and if contacts move when hot i throw that switch away as it wil eventualy fail due to poor quality, and ofc buy better switches
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