Greetings!
The Super Pensil 12 is my second FR DIY build and I (hope) I am near completion.
All the pieces have been cut and need to put the box together - but looks like that itself will have only after 7-10 days...In the meantime I would welcome some advice on the front baffle holes for the drivers. Flushmounting is becoming a bigger challenge than I had anticipated...
I don't own a router myself and tracked down a workship with a handheld unit. Strangely it looks like not many people here use this very usefull tool...!😱
Long story short, my expereince with the router guys was sub-optimal and probably I will have to make the front baffle pieces again. It will not be a total waste of good plyboard hopefully, as I intend to salvage some of the remaining portions for an upcoming Castle Micro-tower build.
I have small children and the younger one loves touching drivers... so I need to put grilles on the Super Pensils!
So with the new baffles I am thinking of solving 2 problems with 1 solution...
1. Mount the Alp 12 without any rebate - this will result in roughly 10 mm sticking out
2. Take a 10-12 mm thickness MDF piece and create a 208mm hole for the Alp 12 driver frame.
3. Fix the acoustic grille cloth on top of the MDF - so that becomes my speaker grille
4. Fix this grill using neodymium magnets or other means to the speaker cab
That way I skip the risky business with the router.... also get my flush mount... and maybe a decent looking acoustic grille.
Questions that come to mind:
1. Any pitfalls you see in this approach?
2. The flush-mount I get through this will behave sonically same as if I were to mount the drivers in the rebate?
3. Since the grille cloth is only 1-2 mm from the driver frame, do I need to worry about any effects of excursion?
All suggestions/inputs will be appreciated 🙂.
-Zia
The Super Pensil 12 is my second FR DIY build and I (hope) I am near completion.
All the pieces have been cut and need to put the box together - but looks like that itself will have only after 7-10 days...In the meantime I would welcome some advice on the front baffle holes for the drivers. Flushmounting is becoming a bigger challenge than I had anticipated...

I don't own a router myself and tracked down a workship with a handheld unit. Strangely it looks like not many people here use this very usefull tool...!😱
Long story short, my expereince with the router guys was sub-optimal and probably I will have to make the front baffle pieces again. It will not be a total waste of good plyboard hopefully, as I intend to salvage some of the remaining portions for an upcoming Castle Micro-tower build.
I have small children and the younger one loves touching drivers... so I need to put grilles on the Super Pensils!
So with the new baffles I am thinking of solving 2 problems with 1 solution...
1. Mount the Alp 12 without any rebate - this will result in roughly 10 mm sticking out
2. Take a 10-12 mm thickness MDF piece and create a 208mm hole for the Alp 12 driver frame.
3. Fix the acoustic grille cloth on top of the MDF - so that becomes my speaker grille
4. Fix this grill using neodymium magnets or other means to the speaker cab
That way I skip the risky business with the router.... also get my flush mount... and maybe a decent looking acoustic grille.
Questions that come to mind:
1. Any pitfalls you see in this approach?
2. The flush-mount I get through this will behave sonically same as if I were to mount the drivers in the rebate?
3. Since the grille cloth is only 1-2 mm from the driver frame, do I need to worry about any effects of excursion?
All suggestions/inputs will be appreciated 🙂.
-Zia
I can't give any advice to the router issue as I'm going to be building my first set soon but congrats on a good choice of speakers/cabs! I'm going to be ordering my ALP12's on Friday and will be building the SupePensil12's too 🙂 Looking forward to seeing how you figure this out and how the end result comes to be!
Scott
Scott
Questions that come to mind:
2. The flush-mount I get through this will behave sonically same as if I were to mount the drivers in the rebate? (YES)
3. Since the grille cloth is only 1-2 mm from the driver frame, do I need to worry about any effects of excursion? (Assuming the surround is below the frame, place a straight edge across the frame and measure the depth to the surround, subtract the spec excursion from the measured clearance, if you do not have a few mm for safety, make the grill board thicker than 12mm.)
1. Possible problems, the gril board may vibrate against the cabinet or the magnets, possible solution use a pice if felt covering the cabinet behind the grill board. A piece of felt from the scrap box measures 0.030-inch, including some compression likely from the neo magnets, just use more magnets to account for the reduction in magnetic field strength from the neos having a 0.030 gap to the flat head metal in te back of the grill plate, experiment needed, check K & J Magnetics web site for a calculator)
All suggestions/inputs will be appreciated : (see above) ...regards, Michael
-Zia
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