Hello Guys,
I have a Kicker ZX750.1 amp (http://www******er.com/ZX_Amplifiers), with 750 Watt Mono at 2 Ohms (not sure if it is RMS or PMPO... most likely RMS, coz they are recommending 800 to 1500 RMS sub with it), hooked up with one Sony Explode ( I think 380 watt RMS/ 1200W PMPO), in a small tight Q-Logic box. I literally have to keep the gain on the amp way less than half, otherwise it distorts the sound. A number of people have been telling me that the sub woofer is the week link, and I will gain a lot just by changing the sub. I do not want to put two subs, or big box in (kind of like trunk space ), or spend a lot of money on it. However, would like to find out few things before proceeding forward.
1. Would it really make a huge difference just by changing the sub?
2. If yes, what power sub should I get (RMS)?? Most of the subs are 4 ohm, however; the amp says 2 ohm.. does it make difference? To be more specific, any preferred brand/ model? I looked at Best Car Subwoofer, Best Car Sub – Reviews and Rankings | Bestcovery, and the best subs range from 80 bucks to 900 bucks. I read online, many people saying 4 ohm sub will be fine with 2 ohm amp, but what would be the best combo if I just want to hook up one sub?
3. Do you think I will need to replace this box for a more powerful sub?
Thanks again for the help and support .
I have a Kicker ZX750.1 amp (http://www******er.com/ZX_Amplifiers), with 750 Watt Mono at 2 Ohms (not sure if it is RMS or PMPO... most likely RMS, coz they are recommending 800 to 1500 RMS sub with it), hooked up with one Sony Explode ( I think 380 watt RMS/ 1200W PMPO), in a small tight Q-Logic box. I literally have to keep the gain on the amp way less than half, otherwise it distorts the sound. A number of people have been telling me that the sub woofer is the week link, and I will gain a lot just by changing the sub. I do not want to put two subs, or big box in (kind of like trunk space ), or spend a lot of money on it. However, would like to find out few things before proceeding forward.
1. Would it really make a huge difference just by changing the sub?
2. If yes, what power sub should I get (RMS)?? Most of the subs are 4 ohm, however; the amp says 2 ohm.. does it make difference? To be more specific, any preferred brand/ model? I looked at Best Car Subwoofer, Best Car Sub – Reviews and Rankings | Bestcovery, and the best subs range from 80 bucks to 900 bucks. I read online, many people saying 4 ohm sub will be fine with 2 ohm amp, but what would be the best combo if I just want to hook up one sub?
3. Do you think I will need to replace this box for a more powerful sub?
Thanks again for the help and support .
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look around ad different subs. you can get away with brands like polk, kicker, etc. mainly the "shelf" brands. that amp will actually push over 800 rms at 2ohms, but that is at 2ohms. at 4 ohms, it is half as much power. look at the airspace of the q-logic box, and look at the recomended enclosure size sealed. don't forget to take note if you have to subtract sub displacement (net). iirc, boston and infinity have some nice ones for cheap, as well. i have been doing a lot of looking around on amazon for good pricing on good subs. so, you want either 2 ohm, or dual 4 ohm sub that can handle 800+ rms, or a d2, or 4 ohm that can handle 400. in my opinion, 4 ohm would be a waste of that power, but it is up to you. post up what you are thinking about buying after looking around. oh, and those pentagon explodes do flex horribly. more than a gymnast. that does distort, and give you a hollow/bubbly bass, with no real output.
I actually went to Kicker site, and looked for recommended subs for this amp. With all the restrictions I have (one, circular, 12 inch). The one that suits me is COMPVX 12 inch, however; one thing confuses me. For Impedance, they all have 2 or 4 DVC ohms. What does that mean?
Is it basically saying that its 4 ohm dual core, so can be wired as two ohm as well???
Thanks again for the help 🙂
Is it basically saying that its 4 ohm dual core, so can be wired as two ohm as well???
Thanks again for the help 🙂
yah, "dvc"= "dual voice coil" you don't want to run a single coil on a dvc sub. you would want a d4 coil, not d2 to get 2ohms, but last i checked, the cvr12 should be only 400rms. i would bet the box is on the small side for what you should put a cvr in. kickers generally like large enclosures, save for the old round solobarics.... that reminds me: the company that made the kickers is still around, and still making them..... you could run one at 4ohm, and have the option to add a second match to it later on the same amp.....
credencespeakers.com/Product Pages/CS124S.htm
i'll try and look around for some good ones to match power.
credencespeakers.com/Product Pages/CS124S.htm
i'll try and look around for some good ones to match power.
According to the website, the COMPVX in 12 inch is
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK/RMS)* 1500/750
and seems like that what they recommend for this amp (for all the subs). If they power is less than that, they recommend two.
I do not intend to go for two in future (actually I had two, but didnt really need all that bass, and needed extra space in the trunk as well). For now, I need the best 12 inch sub, that can fit the same box (as I love its size 🙂 ), and that is best suited for this amp 🙂.
If I understand your post correctly, single coil, two ohm 800+ watt RMS is the way to go?
If that is true, then I would really appreciate if you can recommend the brands/ and or Models (I believe they would have better or worse subs with the same specs???)....
Thanks again 🙂.
if that vx is d4, then that will be fine for the amp, but you will have to watch not to push it real hard, or hard for more than a min, or 2. dual 4 or single 2. 800rms+, yes. but, be sure to pay attention to sealed box size. the enclosure plays a big role on power handling. one that wants more airspace than you give it cannot cool properly. one that wants less than you give it will over-excurt with less power, and physically damage the sub. do you know the cu-ft of the box?
Just calculated it, and yes you are right 🙂... Its pretty small, and maybe that is why I like the space it consumes.
According to my calculations, the internal volume would be about 0.83 cubic feet (1436.5 cubic inches). And, I have not taken out the space consumed by the sub yet (i believe there is a formula for that as well, however; I think when manufacturer of a sub states min volume requirement, they do not take that in account.. do they).
So, I guess its small for the Kicker sub, that requires at least 1 cubic feet ...🙁
I think I saw few that required less.. so I have to find one of those 🙂
BTW... I am setting my bench mark for more than 800 RMS at 2 ohm, and suitable for about 0.87 Cubic Feet sealed box (off course 12 inch)...
Is my approach correct? Any sub/ model you would like to recommend that fulfills these specs?
Is my approach correct? Any sub/ model you would like to recommend that fulfills these specs?
sorry not to get back to you. been trying to get back home since wed. just got in last night, adn the connection was limited, so it was hard to grab you some options. what is the mounting depth you have to work with? and, yes, 800rms+ is ideal. and should work well with your box specs. where are you planning on buying? retail, internet? right now, alpine type-x, or powerbass xl3121d (if you are up for a good free-air break-in) are at the top of the list. i was looking for an eclipse/tc sound that fit the bill, but didn't. also, what is your budget, and are you against used?
Thanks for being so helpful my friend. Actually, I am looking on craigslist for the past month, for something decent (so, I would actually like to get used)... but, most of the time I see 400 rms max...
Range is very flexible.. for example, if there is something that is 700-800 new, and I get it for 200-300, I will pick it up.. Can go for new as well, but dont want to spend a lot of money, so basically looking for best bang for the buck... like if I get something for 200, but there is something slightly better but 800, I will let it pass 🙂... however, if there is something with a lot better performance for about 250, will go for it 🙂.
Thanks again for the support.
found a good one. it's a soundstream t4-12. it's a dual 1ohm coil, which you could run @2 ohms, and in your box, it would be right in the perfect power range. the guy is asking 150 shipped, obo. the ad is on another forum.
Awesome... thank you so sooo much 🙂
Is it this link (2) Soundstream T4 12s
It is saying 900 RMS, would that be at 2 ohm?
and, what do you think would be the reasonable price to offer? 150 is good? I couldnt find the price of new one, seems like it has been discontinued...
Also, its not a local pickup, so cant check if it is good or not.. Anything that can be wrong?
Thanks again 🙂
yes, that's it. good price in good condition. also remember that shipping subs usually costs a bit. that sub is 900 in 1cu, and 700 in .5cu, so you should be right in the range with your box.
the rms, is the total power, so it would be a t whatever ohm you wire it to, which would be 2 ohm. if you wired it to .5 ohm, the rms would still be the same for the driver. just knowing me, i like to negotiate, so i tend to offer less, because, you never know, lol. anyways, the guy has 7-100%positive transactions on the site in the last year, and you are free to look at the comments on them in his i-trader. that is a real good indication that the sub will be just as described. another good sign, is that he took the other sub off the market as soon as he saw an issue. i would have to say the sub went for the 250-350 range +sh. likely could have been had at clearance about 150, but that's clearance to get rid of stock.
typically, the only things you cannot see by pics, are a worn spider, or internal damage, and he displayed the coil readings. i would offer 125 shipped, personally, but it is up to you, and him.
oh, did you ever check the mounting depth in your box? wouldn't want to drop it in there and have it just thunk on the back of the box and not mount. looks like you can clear, but close, and you can't beat measurements.
the rms, is the total power, so it would be a t whatever ohm you wire it to, which would be 2 ohm. if you wired it to .5 ohm, the rms would still be the same for the driver. just knowing me, i like to negotiate, so i tend to offer less, because, you never know, lol. anyways, the guy has 7-100%positive transactions on the site in the last year, and you are free to look at the comments on them in his i-trader. that is a real good indication that the sub will be just as described. another good sign, is that he took the other sub off the market as soon as he saw an issue. i would have to say the sub went for the 250-350 range +sh. likely could have been had at clearance about 150, but that's clearance to get rid of stock.
typically, the only things you cannot see by pics, are a worn spider, or internal damage, and he displayed the coil readings. i would offer 125 shipped, personally, but it is up to you, and him.
oh, did you ever check the mounting depth in your box? wouldn't want to drop it in there and have it just thunk on the back of the box and not mount. looks like you can clear, but close, and you can't beat measurements.
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Yeah.. good point... the depth is more thna 6 inches and less than 11 🙂... actually, its not exact rectangle, the rectangle part is 6 inches deep, and then the triangle part is at a max of 5 inches further at the base, and 0 at the top... so, I guess it would be around 7-8 inches in the middle.
I already IMed him.. will also ask him the depth of the sub.
Thanks again 🙂
Just got a reply from him, saying mounting depth is 6 1/10". What do you think, it should be fine??
Thanks again 🙂
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