Anyone have any suggestions for a subwoofer plate amp in Australia?
I have a few in mind - Jaycar has a 600W and a 150W unit... I was thinking more along the lines of 300W, but getting the 600W might give me more headroom. One problem - the frequency response is given as 32-250 Hz, 32 Hz being much higher than I want. I don't suppose anyone knows if this can be modified?
The old 350W unit would be good, but those seem pretty hard to find these days...
There's also a Class H unit on eBay here , but the frequency response still isn't great - the roll-off seems to start around 30 Hz again (it says the -3 dB point is 19 Hz, but it also says -6 dB at 22 Hz, so there's an inconsistency there)... seems reasonable value as well.
I've heard good things about the Redgum amps, but they're a bit out of my price range.
Any other suggestions?
I have a few in mind - Jaycar has a 600W and a 150W unit... I was thinking more along the lines of 300W, but getting the 600W might give me more headroom. One problem - the frequency response is given as 32-250 Hz, 32 Hz being much higher than I want. I don't suppose anyone knows if this can be modified?
The old 350W unit would be good, but those seem pretty hard to find these days...
There's also a Class H unit on eBay here , but the frequency response still isn't great - the roll-off seems to start around 30 Hz again (it says the -3 dB point is 19 Hz, but it also says -6 dB at 22 Hz, so there's an inconsistency there)... seems reasonable value as well.
I've heard good things about the Redgum amps, but they're a bit out of my price range.
Any other suggestions?
http://www.audiomarketplace.com.au/
But they appear to be out of stock of the O-Audio plate amp at the moment, give them a phone call and ask
Otherwise
http://oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html
Looks like value for money
But they appear to be out of stock of the O-Audio plate amp at the moment, give them a phone call and ask
Otherwise
http://oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html
Looks like value for money
Thanks... almost seems worth shipping it straight from the U.S, though.
A$500 vs US$275 (price found at http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/amps-all.htm) -- should save about $150 at current exchange rates.
Actually, the 300W unit seems more what I'm after and that would be cheaper still. Much more expensive than the second hand Shiva I'll be using with it, but I'll take that as an excuse to upgrade later. 🙂
A$500 vs US$275 (price found at http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/amps-all.htm) -- should save about $150 at current exchange rates.
Actually, the 300W unit seems more what I'm after and that would be cheaper still. Much more expensive than the second hand Shiva I'll be using with it, but I'll take that as an excuse to upgrade later. 🙂
I'd always go for the bigger amp, not that I have any plate-amps that are not already in el-cheapo boxes.
I believe the higher price at Audio Market Place is because these O-Audio amps are not UL certified; so AM had to pay for all the electrical compliance tests, even so the new shipping cost is very reasonable and if I had the spare cash I'd probably buy a couple, cheaper than repairing my present power amp which is starting to loose output
I believe the higher price at Audio Market Place is because these O-Audio amps are not UL certified; so AM had to pay for all the electrical compliance tests, even so the new shipping cost is very reasonable and if I had the spare cash I'd probably buy a couple, cheaper than repairing my present power amp which is starting to loose output
Some plate amplifiers allow air to chuff through the RCA and XLR sockets and around the attenuator shafts etc, so check carefully if you intend to seal your driver enclosure with one of them. I found out the hard way with a unit purchased from the Netherlands. Also if using passive radiators, I would not mount a plate amplifier on the subwoofer at all due to possible vibration-induced component failure.
These are supposed to be very good but I've never used one.
http://darcheraudio.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=38&products_id=82
http://darcheraudio.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=38&products_id=82
Thanks, rabbitz... guess there's no reason it has to be a plate amp, and that looks like a really nice unit, but it would be stretching my budget somewhat.
Maybe a stereo amplifier would suffice in the short term (haven't even built the box yet, so I should be able to at least test it with that), though.
If it weren't for 32 Hz cut-off, I'd definitely go with the 600W Jaycar unit, might still go for it anyway and see if I can modify it.
Maybe a stereo amplifier would suffice in the short term (haven't even built the box yet, so I should be able to at least test it with that), though.
If it weren't for 32 Hz cut-off, I'd definitely go with the 600W Jaycar unit, might still go for it anyway and see if I can modify it.
Stu are you driving an 8R nominal load or a 4 ohm nominal?
Because Rod Elliot has a little blurb on an easy method to bridge a stereo amp for high power mono although I just use old stereo amps to drive my subs and I've never really needed more than 2 by 200 watts
http://sound.westhost.com/project14.htm
Because Rod Elliot has a little blurb on an easy method to bridge a stereo amp for high power mono although I just use old stereo amps to drive my subs and I've never really needed more than 2 by 200 watts
http://sound.westhost.com/project14.htm
It's a dual 8-ohm driver... if I used a stereo amp, I'd just run one voice coil per channel (triple-checking the polarisation, of course).
I like dual 8R drivers, usually wire to 16 and run in pairs or triplets though.
Which driver is it?? What size? details !! I crave details
Which driver is it?? What size? details !! I crave details
It's the old Shiva Mk I, got it second hand on eBay.
12", dual 8R voice coils, 600 W, xmax of about 15 mm.
Was either going to go ported or use Rod Elliot's ELF circuit in a sealed box... either way, it should reach 20 Hz pretty easily if the amp lets me.
12", dual 8R voice coils, 600 W, xmax of about 15 mm.
Was either going to go ported or use Rod Elliot's ELF circuit in a sealed box... either way, it should reach 20 Hz pretty easily if the amp lets me.
Wife wouldn't let me bid on that one, not allowed until the house is fixed.
Would work which ever way you go, old stereo amps are more available and cheaper.
I have one of Rods boards here waiting to be populated, but our new house is so much smaller than the old I don't know if I need it.
Would work which ever way you go, old stereo amps are more available and cheaper.
I have one of Rods boards here waiting to be populated, but our new house is so much smaller than the old I don't know if I need it.
I highly recommend Rod's ELF circuit (P48A) 😉
I'm using it with a pair of slimline pioneer 10" car subs in 19ltr boxes tuned to an FS fo 43hz. Sounds awesome, I have bass down to 25hz.
don't bother with plate amps
col.
I'm using it with a pair of slimline pioneer 10" car subs in 19ltr boxes tuned to an FS fo 43hz. Sounds awesome, I have bass down to 25hz.
don't bother with plate amps
col.
I have 6 of those cheap Redback 12 inch woofers to use, ELF would be the only way I could use them.
Wired series /parallel for the nominal 12R load.
I need a new cabinet for the TV I want to buy don't I?? Trouble is the room is only 4.5M wide
Rod did tell me of another cheap and easy way to use any amp in bridged mode but I have lost that email, that would give me 800 watts from the cheap Inkel power amp that is currently dieing a slow death, I was told to replace the bypass capacitors and the smoothing caps.
Wired series /parallel for the nominal 12R load.
I need a new cabinet for the TV I want to buy don't I?? Trouble is the room is only 4.5M wide
Rod did tell me of another cheap and easy way to use any amp in bridged mode but I have lost that email, that would give me 800 watts from the cheap Inkel power amp that is currently dieing a slow death, I was told to replace the bypass capacitors and the smoothing caps.
If you want to mod the Jaycar, or 'Digitech' 600W unit, my guess is that is has a cut=off of 32 Hz, because if DC blocking capictors inline with the signal. I recon it wouldn't be too hard to replace these with a different value to give you a lower f3.??
Moondog55 said:
That could be his Project 14 at http://sound.westhost.com/project14.htm
The project article comes with a few important warnings regarding speaker impedance, which I guess means you might be limited to a nominal 8 Ohm driver for a cheaper stereo amp.
I use a bridged Class-D subwoofer plate amp of 800W into a nominal 4 Ohm load (two 8 Ohm drivers in parallel) with ESP P48 in front and it is OK, but runs out of spit earlier than with the an old 365W 8 Ohm A/B stereo amp with each channel connected to respective drivers of the same subwoofer.
No while I did ask about that project there is apparently another way to do it, old computer with dead hard drive holds all of my older emails; from memory tho it was a permanent switching of input direction.
Not something I'm going to attempt without a diagram and explicit instructions
Not something I'm going to attempt without a diagram and explicit instructions
Probably just using a balanced line driver with hot to one power amp channel +ve input and cold to the other power amp channel +ve input and ground to ground. He sells a stereo balanced line driver PCB but you only need mono. Here is a mono one that I built around a single dual opamp:
Output resistors (not shown in the photo) are off-board to an XLR socket. Since the photo I substituted 0.1% resistors and it works OK.
Output resistors (not shown in the photo) are off-board to an XLR socket. Since the photo I substituted 0.1% resistors and it works OK.
Eddie Wolve said:
I'm hoping it's something as simple as that. Shouldn't be too difficult, really, just have to find the cap and shunt it out. Might try and borrow a CRO for it, though...
Update
Hi Every one, I know this is an old thread but just some advice to anybody that researches these Jaycar Plate amps (Class D 150 and 600 models) Please do not purchase them, I have had two fail on me in a row (6 or so months usage fo each - 150 model) First one I had had a sound problem (distortion/humming variable with volume) and auto on function was a bit funny, second one failed from bad electrolytic caps on the power supply and amp board (common hydrogen build up with cheap caps), Resistors in SMPS where under rated and burn't out (before blowing any fuse) and heat-sinks missing off two voltage regulators.
BTW I actually work at a Jaycar Authorised Stockist.
Hi Every one, I know this is an old thread but just some advice to anybody that researches these Jaycar Plate amps (Class D 150 and 600 models) Please do not purchase them, I have had two fail on me in a row (6 or so months usage fo each - 150 model) First one I had had a sound problem (distortion/humming variable with volume) and auto on function was a bit funny, second one failed from bad electrolytic caps on the power supply and amp board (common hydrogen build up with cheap caps), Resistors in SMPS where under rated and burn't out (before blowing any fuse) and heat-sinks missing off two voltage regulators.
BTW I actually work at a Jaycar Authorised Stockist.
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