Removed all old xover parts. Woofers measure 4 ohms. One tweeter is 3.5. The other is 3.7.
I'll run the DATS software on them once I've replaced the surrounds on the woofers which are disintegrated.
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1051/dats-v2-dayton-audio-test-system-discontinued
I'll run the DATS software on them once I've replaced the surrounds on the woofers which are disintegrated.
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1051/dats-v2-dayton-audio-test-system-discontinued
The key to EASILY getting these apart is a heat gun! Top and bottom of the mesh "cans", and the gasket material just peels apart with very little effort. Wondering now if I should just make it completely modern, with new drivers, and just keep the vintage cabinet. Woofer is 8". First pic is the "can" flipped upside down
DATS results from measuring the drivers. Woofer tests were done just to see if they're worth trying to re-foam them.
Tweeter #1...
Tweeter #2...
Woofer #1...
Woofer #2...
Something wrong with one of the woofers 🙁
Tweeter #1...
Tweeter #2...
Woofer #1...
Woofer #2...
Something wrong with one of the woofers 🙁
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I think it is sort of critical to have a functioning surround if you are going to measure them.
The magnet on the driver at least looks to be a decent size.
Might be worth re foaming just to go through the exercise of doing it anyway.
Just measure the voice coil resistence first and see if they match.
The magnet on the driver at least looks to be a decent size.
Might be worth re foaming just to go through the exercise of doing it anyway.
Just measure the voice coil resistence first and see if they match.
Close enough for a re foam as long as the cones appear to move when centered.
And then you have to drill those rivets out and then...
Who knows, maybe you can re foam that one without removing the rivets.
And then you have to drill those rivets out and then...
Who knows, maybe you can re foam that one without removing the rivets.
If you don’t might spending $… might want to check out BAYZ Audio. Their design seems to use an inverted SB Satori woofer and though theirs is probably significantly modified frame wise…the standard driver would probably work. As to the tweeter a dipole like a BG neo 3 would probably due the trick mounted on top of the woofer magnet.
Decided I'd upgrade the woofer rather than repair this one. Drilled out the 4 rivets and used heat gun to soften the adhesive to separate baffle ring from woofer. Pried up on the tweeter to separate it from the woofer magnet...
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Do they sell raw drivers?
I need a mid/woof that fits a MAX cutout of 7". It's metal so there isn't anything I can do other than go with an 8" that fits that cutout or go with a 6" and make an adapter.
I've haven't calculated by there must be close to 2 cubic feet below the woofer. I should be able to get good bass extension and output with all that space and a properly sized port. The port in there now is like 1/2" long. Lol.
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I know they make 7 inch drivers though one I am thinking of has a square mount.
Re foaming may be less pain than finding an exact fit.
Aargh - Edit, that is if you can find foam that fits that driver.
Re foaming may be less pain than finding an exact fit.
Aargh - Edit, that is if you can find foam that fits that driver.
What is the basket outer edge to edge? Usually an 8 inch driver is 8 inches at the basket edge though that can also vary a little.
Jim - any update here? I recently acquired a set of FRS 11s and am attempting to repair them. Not sure what to do about these glass fuses....