Hiya,
I need help with my F1 mixer, has been working great till recently.
After a room move, once reconnected the XLR main outputs refuse to work.
Mono and Stereo Inputs / Aux and Sub main out sections all work correctly.
I'm also having trouble finding schematics / repair info for this mixer.
Any help will be grateful.
Many Thanks
Cheers
Lee
I need help with my F1 mixer, has been working great till recently.
After a room move, once reconnected the XLR main outputs refuse to work.
Mono and Stereo Inputs / Aux and Sub main out sections all work correctly.
I'm also having trouble finding schematics / repair info for this mixer.
Any help will be grateful.
Many Thanks
Cheers
Lee
does the mix appear at the 2trk output?(check the switch assignments if i'm not mistaken the 2trk assigment re-routes the xlr out to 2trk in)
the other thing i would check is the insert jacks for the masters (can you get signal from the send of the insert)do you use these? sometimes the switch section of an insert (that goes unused)can get cruddy and "open".
after that getting in there and checking solder joints and continuity may be in order.
the other thing i would check is the insert jacks for the masters (can you get signal from the send of the insert)do you use these? sometimes the switch section of an insert (that goes unused)can get cruddy and "open".
after that getting in there and checking solder joints and continuity may be in order.
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Thanks Turk for the info.
I haven't tried the 2 trk out or the Insert patch. Would it be best to clean the inserts with Deoxit switch cleaner?
Cheers
Lee
I haven't tried the 2 trk out or the Insert patch. Would it be best to clean the inserts with Deoxit switch cleaner?
Cheers
Lee
Deoxit or any good quality contact cleaner just don't go crazy with it!
check switches and controls first....
check switches and controls first....
I've treated the inserts to some Deoxit. Sent a 1khz test signal into input 1, and can get the 1khz tone via the inserts.
Did this will all 6 mono in's and they all worked Ok.
No joy with the 2trk, tried all combinations and nothing?
Cheers
Lee
Did this will all 6 mono in's and they all worked Ok.
No joy with the 2trk, tried all combinations and nothing?
Cheers
Lee
well it seems you do have a output stage fault!(sorry for stating the obvious)
how are your troubleshooting skills and do you have basic test equipment; multimeter etc.
as for schematics i don't currently have anything on the Spirit F1 (but could obtain it if needed)
how are you monitoring the xlr out's (xlr to amp to speaker)?
if the 2trk switch is damaged(and there's two of them) that could be trouble but it's looking like the op amp's driving the xlr's have gone south.
does the mono out have signal on it?
how are your troubleshooting skills and do you have basic test equipment; multimeter etc.
as for schematics i don't currently have anything on the Spirit F1 (but could obtain it if needed)
how are you monitoring the xlr out's (xlr to amp to speaker)?
if the 2trk switch is damaged(and there's two of them) that could be trouble but it's looking like the op amp's driving the xlr's have gone south.
does the mono out have signal on it?
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Hiya Turk,
My troubleshooting skills are average. Got access to multimeter & an old 40mhz crusty Hitachi scope. (But that gets used for my eurorack modular synth these days, it does get the odd use for troubleshooting.)
As for connection, I used the XLR's on this desk to drive my Behringer Truth 2031 actives.
I'd go for the op amp theroy, as i've read for another Spirit folio desk. (Can't remember model) But that said there is a 8 pin chip, by the master faders that was a common fault? Not easy to fix (As it's between the faders, so space is tight.), but can can be done.
As for my 2trk switches, they seem to work fine. (Not sure about electrically, but mechanically have a solid clicking action.)
The schematics would help. As i could start testing PSU/Voltages, but i'm sure the +17 - 0 - -17 rails are Ok. I'm going with a failed op amp on the master faders. (Can't remember the number of the op amp)
Another fault is the PSU smoothing electrolytics drying out, as they are next to the Fet's & heatsink. The external PSU can go south too?
That's about all i know fault wise with this mixer, they usually are a good all round unit. (Cheap to buy/maintain & pretty robust)
Cheers
Lee
My troubleshooting skills are average. Got access to multimeter & an old 40mhz crusty Hitachi scope. (But that gets used for my eurorack modular synth these days, it does get the odd use for troubleshooting.)
As for connection, I used the XLR's on this desk to drive my Behringer Truth 2031 actives.
I'd go for the op amp theroy, as i've read for another Spirit folio desk. (Can't remember model) But that said there is a 8 pin chip, by the master faders that was a common fault? Not easy to fix (As it's between the faders, so space is tight.), but can can be done.
As for my 2trk switches, they seem to work fine. (Not sure about electrically, but mechanically have a solid clicking action.)
The schematics would help. As i could start testing PSU/Voltages, but i'm sure the +17 - 0 - -17 rails are Ok. I'm going with a failed op amp on the master faders. (Can't remember the number of the op amp)
Another fault is the PSU smoothing electrolytics drying out, as they are next to the Fet's & heatsink. The external PSU can go south too?
That's about all i know fault wise with this mixer, they usually are a good all round unit. (Cheap to buy/maintain & pretty robust)
Cheers
Lee
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i agree cheap to buy i can't fully agree on the other two...
how's your skills at removing/de-soldering thing from pc boards without damage?
since you have that hitachi scope it should make diagnosing the faulty op-amp a snap while your in there check all the bypass and coupling caps in that stage (local to the device)
the few i've repaired where more of a chore to disassemble/reassemble than to fix.
with regard to the switches cracked solder joints (switch pins to pcb assem.) are often the culprit there (any mechanical stress point as in jacks and controls to pcb)
you'll understand once you "open er up"
how's your skills at removing/de-soldering thing from pc boards without damage?
since you have that hitachi scope it should make diagnosing the faulty op-amp a snap while your in there check all the bypass and coupling caps in that stage (local to the device)
the few i've repaired where more of a chore to disassemble/reassemble than to fix.
with regard to the switches cracked solder joints (switch pins to pcb assem.) are often the culprit there (any mechanical stress point as in jacks and controls to pcb)
you'll understand once you "open er up"
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Thanks Turk,
My soldering skills are Ok, can't do SMD stuff. But happy with through hole components.
Agree on the cracked joints for the switches, will have a look once it's open.
Yes there are many screws, knobs & jack socket tops.
I'll see how i get on.......a schematic would help in tracing.
Cheers
Lee
My soldering skills are Ok, can't do SMD stuff. But happy with through hole components.
Agree on the cracked joints for the switches, will have a look once it's open.
Yes there are many screws, knobs & jack socket tops.
I'll see how i get on.......a schematic would help in tracing.
Cheers
Lee
i'll call and talk to the nice french girls in Montreal at Soundcraft Canada for Spirit F1 schematics for you. i'm surprised a servicing dealer over there can't help you.
ok i've got a copy of the schematics you need the master section correct?
sorry for the delayed reply.
have you got any further on it?
sorry for the delayed reply.
have you got any further on it?
Turk,
I am impressed you managed to get the schematic! I haven't been as lucky in the past.
There is one quick check I would suggest before getting serious. That is to insert a stereo phone plug with tip and ring shorted into the insert points. Not a high probability of being the problem but so easy it is often worth doing particularly on older gear.
What worries me is both outputs failing. As you mentioned switch trace failure that seems a good guess as failure is reported after a move. I may be getting foggy but I thought by the F1 things were all surface mount. So hopefully your feel is right
The one thing I do whenever opening up a Soundcraft mixer is to change the plastic rivet holding the heatsink onto the regulator. I prefer a real metal bolt as they don't stretch with age.
But again I gotta say I am impressed with your skill here.
I am impressed you managed to get the schematic! I haven't been as lucky in the past.
There is one quick check I would suggest before getting serious. That is to insert a stereo phone plug with tip and ring shorted into the insert points. Not a high probability of being the problem but so easy it is often worth doing particularly on older gear.
What worries me is both outputs failing. As you mentioned switch trace failure that seems a good guess as failure is reported after a move. I may be getting foggy but I thought by the F1 things were all surface mount. So hopefully your feel is right
The one thing I do whenever opening up a Soundcraft mixer is to change the plastic rivet holding the heatsink onto the regulator. I prefer a real metal bolt as they don't stretch with age.
But again I gotta say I am impressed with your skill here.
if you read through the thread i did suggest checking for signal at the insert point (standard thing for me)to determine just where things crapped out.
as for the schematics when you have a good long term relationship with a company info comes easy.
now i just have to figure out how to make the file size smaller to send to cosmic023(computer stuff makes me c..c.razzy! long live analog!)
as for the schematics when you have a good long term relationship with a company info comes easy.
now i just have to figure out how to make the file size smaller to send to cosmic023(computer stuff makes me c..c.razzy! long live analog!)
I know you suggested that and he cleaned them. But as I am sure you know the switches need to be excersised for best cleaning.
Now when you want to make a file smaller just look at it through binoculars backwards! 🙂
Sorry that is the best help I can offer. But as I said you are doing great.
Now when you want to make a file smaller just look at it through binoculars backwards! 🙂
Sorry that is the best help I can offer. But as I said you are doing great.
Cheers guys. I haven't had much time to work on the mixer.
But thanks for the info.......i'll try and see what i can do....
And Turk, thanks for getting the Schematics......i'll send you a PM.
Cheers
Lee
But thanks for the info.......i'll try and see what i can do....
And Turk, thanks for getting the Schematics......i'll send you a PM.
Cheers
Lee
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