my floor speakers are basically just needed finishing. i intended on painting them. i primed them, then the other day when i moved them the primer cracked around the joins.
i glued and screwed, but i think it was the flexing of the mdf that did it. i'm not very happy about this, as it'll look crap when painted when the cracks show up.
now i've realised i should have added a lot of bracing, as these things are 1.2m high. G i'm an idiot.
i'm hopeless at veneering, so that's not an option really (nor preferable).
i'm considering painting them anyway, using them temporarily while i plan a better design. it was my first diy project, and i learn't the hard way. i've already thought of a better design.
anyone got thoughts of what i could do to fix this?
i glued and screwed, but i think it was the flexing of the mdf that did it. i'm not very happy about this, as it'll look crap when painted when the cracks show up.
now i've realised i should have added a lot of bracing, as these things are 1.2m high. G i'm an idiot.
i'm hopeless at veneering, so that's not an option really (nor preferable).
i'm considering painting them anyway, using them temporarily while i plan a better design. it was my first diy project, and i learn't the hard way. i've already thought of a better design.
anyone got thoughts of what i could do to fix this?
oh cool...............but what the hell is marine resin? i'm assuming it's for sealing boats, yes?
well actually i'll just do a search on it for more info, but what i would like to know is: what sort of cost am i looking at? where would i get it?
thanx
well actually i'll just do a search on it for more info, but what i would like to know is: what sort of cost am i looking at? where would i get it?
thanx
Resin is like an epoxy sealer...its sandable and cheap...any local hardware place has it....brush,roll it on..it will fill your cracks and become as hard as heck....then sand your box...and reprime and paint it.....that box wont crack ever on the joints....I dont know how bad your joints are so this will do it for some mild cracks..LOL
DIRT®
DIRT®
If your driver cutouts are big enough you might still be able to add some bracing internally. Give it a go😉
i've decided i'm gonna put some smallish blocks of mdf glued in on the inside of the edges at certain intervals. i don't wanna make them too big tho, as i've calculated all my volumes and stuck to them etc. should be alright.
then i'll look into this resin stuff as well. if it's really as cheap as u make out, and i can find it, should be good 🙂
i've been goddamn finishing these cabinets for the last couple of weeks now, it's starting to get to me. if only i had a router i could mount the drivers flush with the front (if ya know what i mean). still got the grills to make too.
either way, i've already got a wacko design for my next ones.
then i'll look into this resin stuff as well. if it's really as cheap as u make out, and i can find it, should be good 🙂
i've been goddamn finishing these cabinets for the last couple of weeks now, it's starting to get to me. if only i had a router i could mount the drivers flush with the front (if ya know what i mean). still got the grills to make too.
either way, i've already got a wacko design for my next ones.
You can alter the volume of a box by about 10% either way without too much change in calculated response, so you have a bit of leeeway here. Corner blocks are a good start, but you can try using 1" thick dowels for bracing internally, or maybe damped angle iron would work.
What volume is the box? what size are the drivers, and what thickness is the MDF? I ask becasue I am also making 1.2meter tall boxes.. 60litres... 25mm MDF, and I am wondering if I should put some more bracing.. 😀 lol
wow 3 of us making 1.2 meter tall boxes
My boxes have a volume of around 65 litres, pretty close to yours skinny boy. Im using 2 sheets of 15mm plywood stuck together to construct it. So far i have wood running all along the inside edges to screw from the inside and to hold it better, also have 2 braces going across the front and sides, probably overboard but hey
Each tower has 4 5.25 inch woofers and a dome tweeter.

My boxes have a volume of around 65 litres, pretty close to yours skinny boy. Im using 2 sheets of 15mm plywood stuck together to construct it. So far i have wood running all along the inside edges to screw from the inside and to hold it better, also have 2 braces going across the front and sides, probably overboard but hey

Each tower has 4 5.25 inch woofers and a dome tweeter.
postman said:wow 3 of us making 1.2 meter tall boxes![]()
My boxes have a volume of around 65 litres, pretty close to yours skinny boy. Im using 2 sheets of 15mm plywood stuck together to construct it. So far i have wood running all along the inside edges to screw from the inside and to hold it better, also have 2 braces going across the front and sides, probably overboard but hey![]()
Each tower has 4 5.25 inch woofers and a dome tweeter.
Well, actually mine are 64.4 litres without the speaker, port and bracing... I have one 8inch woofer and one 1inch dome tweeter per box.. 🙂 why did you choose 1.2metres tall? I chose it cos thats how wide a piece of MDf is.. 😀 lol
i chose the 1.2 metres because i think it looks good that way
and it wont take up as much floorspace as if i made the other dimensions bigger, also I think they sound better up near head height.
Still thinking of how im going to finish them though


and it wont take up as much floorspace as if i made the other dimensions bigger, also I think they sound better up near head height.
Still thinking of how im going to finish them though

1.2 metres was very convenient for me due to the volumes and width/depth i required. total internal volume is around 60L.
mine have a single dome tweeter, two 5"s and an 8" (8" on the side). the thickest mdf i could find was 18mm, and i thought it would be fine - silly me.
1.2 m high is also perfect for head height when seated, using an mtm config. and i wanted the smallest possible width. and 1.2 looks to damn mean! 🙂
mine have a single dome tweeter, two 5"s and an 8" (8" on the side). the thickest mdf i could find was 18mm, and i thought it would be fine - silly me.
1.2 m high is also perfect for head height when seated, using an mtm config. and i wanted the smallest possible width. and 1.2 looks to damn mean! 🙂
phreeky82 said:1.2 metres was very convenient for me due to the volumes and width/depth i required. total internal volume is around 60L.
mine have a single dome tweeter, two 5"s and an 8" (8" on the side). the thickest mdf i could find was 18mm, and i thought it would be fine - silly me.
1.2 m high is also perfect for head height when seated, using an mtm config. and i wanted the smallest possible width. and 1.2 looks to damn mean! 🙂
As if you could only find 18mm 🙄 I coulda gotten thicker, but couldn't justify the cost... lol My wood work teacher kept saying 16mm was enough.. I kept saying I'm using 25mm.. 🙂 in the end he ordered me a sheet.. 🙂 what a nice guy... lol I am paying for it.. lol how much did you 1.2metre tall speaker box guys spend on MDF? lol in particular the aussie guy (phreeky82, not sure is you have a real name.. lol) I got a 2.4m X 1.2m sheet of 25mm MDF for $60!!! pretty good.. 😀 it pays to still be at school.. 🙂 lol
i live in north queensland (townsville to be exact), so sourcing anything is not too easy (unless it has something to do with the miltary or marine biology 🙂 )
so yeah, 18mm really is all i could find, plus i thought it'd be ok. these things weigh a shitload as it is.
i needed quite a bit of mdf, but i did get a 2.4x1.2m sheet (or actually, it was around 2.5x1.3) x 18mm for around $37 from an evil bunnings hardware store. the rest of the mdf i already had laying around, which i guess also convinced me to go for 18mm.
next time i'll probably glue an 18mm and 9mm together to get 27mm. but then again, next time i'm looking at using some funky curved surfaces, so i'll be using other methods.
so yeah, 18mm really is all i could find, plus i thought it'd be ok. these things weigh a shitload as it is.
i needed quite a bit of mdf, but i did get a 2.4x1.2m sheet (or actually, it was around 2.5x1.3) x 18mm for around $37 from an evil bunnings hardware store. the rest of the mdf i already had laying around, which i guess also convinced me to go for 18mm.
next time i'll probably glue an 18mm and 9mm together to get 27mm. but then again, next time i'm looking at using some funky curved surfaces, so i'll be using other methods.
probably would have ended up costing me like 100~ each tower if i had used the same thickness mdf, but i had heaps of 15mm plywood lying around so i just used 2 layers stuck together 

phreeky82 said:i live in north queensland (townsville to be exact), so sourcing anything is not too easy (unless it has something to do with the miltary or marine biology 🙂 )
so yeah, 18mm really is all i could find, plus i thought it'd be ok. these things weigh a shitload as it is.
i needed quite a bit of mdf, but i did get a 2.4x1.2m sheet (or actually, it was around 2.5x1.3) x 18mm for around $37 from an evil bunnings hardware store. the rest of the mdf i already had laying around, which i guess also convinced me to go for 18mm.
next time i'll probably glue an 18mm and 9mm together to get 27mm. but then again, next time i'm looking at using some funky curved surfaces, so i'll be using other methods.
Hmm.. I see.... well.. better luck next time... lol 25mm MDF woulda cost me $80 from bunnings... hmmm 🙄 and then I had to work out some way to get it home, and then to school.. lol
postman said:probably would have ended up costing me like 100~ each tower if i had used the same thickness mdf, but i had heaps of 15mm plywood lying around so i just used 2 layers stuck together![]()
Plywood? 😛 lol well.. atleast its 30mm all up.. 🙂 lol
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