OK what's the go here, give the newbie a hand i choosing speaker cable 😱
in a percenage performance increase can someone say how much better the following are over each other?
@ AUD$1.50/m - Heavy Duty Fig 8 - 41/0.20mm x 2
Link
@ AUD$2.50/m - Extra Heavy Duty Fig 8 - 2 x 79/0.2mm
Link
@ AUD$3.95/m - Jumbo Fig.8 - Specifications:
- Figure 8, 259 0.12mm strands in each side.
- DC resistance 0.003 ohms per foot.
- Inductance 0.23uH per foot. Link
@ AUD$1.55/m - Supra Professional Grade - Specifications:
* 2 cores
* 90 strands of 0.15 OFC
* 1.6mm cross sectional area per conductor
* 10.8 ohms/klm per conductor
* Chlorine ion-stabilised PVC Jacket
* 2.8 x 5.7mm OD Link
@ AUD$4.95/m - Monitor OFC - This cable is OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) and has 273 strands of 0.12mm per conductor Link
AND MORE...
One of the OFC cables here: Link [Press retry if prompted]
now i did a search and found that people are making their own? i.e. telephone cable etc...
is a diy cable and option? will it sound better,
Basically what i want to know is will $4-5/m OFC sound so much better than $1.50-$2.50 OFC cable? like 10-20% better or only 1-5%,
thanks in advance!
Alex
in a percenage performance increase can someone say how much better the following are over each other?
@ AUD$1.50/m - Heavy Duty Fig 8 - 41/0.20mm x 2
Link
@ AUD$2.50/m - Extra Heavy Duty Fig 8 - 2 x 79/0.2mm
Link
@ AUD$3.95/m - Jumbo Fig.8 - Specifications:
- Figure 8, 259 0.12mm strands in each side.
- DC resistance 0.003 ohms per foot.
- Inductance 0.23uH per foot. Link
@ AUD$1.55/m - Supra Professional Grade - Specifications:
* 2 cores
* 90 strands of 0.15 OFC
* 1.6mm cross sectional area per conductor
* 10.8 ohms/klm per conductor
* Chlorine ion-stabilised PVC Jacket
* 2.8 x 5.7mm OD Link
@ AUD$4.95/m - Monitor OFC - This cable is OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) and has 273 strands of 0.12mm per conductor Link
AND MORE...
One of the OFC cables here: Link [Press retry if prompted]
now i did a search and found that people are making their own? i.e. telephone cable etc...
is a diy cable and option? will it sound better,
Basically what i want to know is will $4-5/m OFC sound so much better than $1.50-$2.50 OFC cable? like 10-20% better or only 1-5%,
thanks in advance!
Alex
I tried the telephone cable thing after I read it in a some thread here. I used the telephone cable (four coper wires) to extend my RCA cables because I didn't want to buy 40 ft of RCAs. The telephone wire sounds the same. It made noise with the telephone wire and it still makes noise with the RCAs.
I think the increase in preformance is minimal, like your 1-5 % estimate, whatever that means, you can't quantify quality. But if you want to improove SQ people often recommend teflon coated speaker wire. I have heard that Cardas is very good.
I think the increase in preformance is minimal, like your 1-5 % estimate, whatever that means, you can't quantify quality. But if you want to improove SQ people often recommend teflon coated speaker wire. I have heard that Cardas is very good.
Also are you talkin about the speaker wire for the inside of the speaker or from the speaker to the amp? I think a lot of times they're different and/or suppose to be different.
for the outside,
BUT yes should i use some DIY CAT 5 inside the box too? or what do i use in the box?
i'm definatly making my own cable now thanks guys, i almost left to buy some crappie cable, do i go and buy $5/m OFC cable for inside the box?
thanks,
Alex
BUT yes should i use some DIY CAT 5 inside the box too? or what do i use in the box?
i'm definatly making my own cable now thanks guys, i almost left to buy some crappie cable, do i go and buy $5/m OFC cable for inside the box?
thanks,
Alex
Preferrably the same cable that runs to the speakers.Alex_B said:
As you are a DIYer, why not do it right, and eliminate the binding posta, and make a single run all the way from the amp terminals to the crossover, or driver terminals?
If your speakers are factory made, and you don't want to damage them (for later resale), you can usually unscrew the binding posts on the back of them and pass the wires through the holes and silicon them up. Another option might be to remove the binding post panel altogether, and replace it with a flat panel, drilled with the holes for the cables. If your speakers are DIY, these shouldn't be a problem as you won't have much resale on them anyway.
Run the same cables from the crossover to the drivers. For the short lengths these require, braiding multiple Cat5's might be more hassle than it's worth, due to it's stiffness.
Lastly, whilst you're doing all of this, get the xover the hell out of the enclosure.
is it really worth the hassle? after reading that article and calculating costs, it's too damn pricey even if i buys a 300mt spool. I'll have to get the dodgy Supra Professional Grade i think, off now to buy things,
Alex
Alex
Yes. Mount it in a box outside of, but preferrably not attched to the enclosure.Alex_B said:
Coils and caps are microphonic, ie they will vibrate with the pressure inside the box, which can be quite high, and distort the signal going to the drivers. Worst of all, it's a smearing type of distorting, not something relatively benign like adding a bit of 2nd H distortion. The trailing edges of notes will be stretched out creating a thickening of the sound and destroying detail, and so will the leading edge (from the note before).
Best part is the mod is basically free.
I use some twisted pair ribbon cable between my ESL63s and the amp. I can't hear any difference between them and zip cord, but I have a friend for whom I made a set of the ribbon cables and he swears they are great. The twisted pair ribbon results in a high capacitance (if I recall correctly, about 1 nF per foot) and very low inductance (20 pairs of wires). I pity people who are so sensitive or so deluded for they will never be satisfied for long. Every time they scratch that itch, their wallets will get a little thinner (not a problem for some, fortunately).
When one considers all the possible sources of coloration to the sound, assuming that the electronics are not malfunctioning, the maximum effect on what you hear is the result of the speakers you choose and their placement in the room relative to the listening position.
Put your money into good speakers. Play with DIY cables if you feel the urge to tinker, but don't spend a lot of money on them. The microscopic effects that may or may not result from a change of cables aren't worth what most of them cost. If you just want your stereo to sound different, try moving the speakers an inch or two every couple weeks. It will make an audible change and it won't cost anything.
Of course, that's just my opinion - provided for free and worth every cent...
MR
When one considers all the possible sources of coloration to the sound, assuming that the electronics are not malfunctioning, the maximum effect on what you hear is the result of the speakers you choose and their placement in the room relative to the listening position.
Put your money into good speakers. Play with DIY cables if you feel the urge to tinker, but don't spend a lot of money on them. The microscopic effects that may or may not result from a change of cables aren't worth what most of them cost. If you just want your stereo to sound different, try moving the speakers an inch or two every couple weeks. It will make an audible change and it won't cost anything.
Of course, that's just my opinion - provided for free and worth every cent...
MR
Chosing speaker cables seems to be another philosopy. I tried some
2,5mm wires and they all sounded diffferent.
I also had a so caled "hIgh-end" Nagaoka cable around that produced only
angry mids nothing else to me,
I endedd up using a 2*4mm OFC Silver cable.
There are for sure many interesting Threads about drilling technics with different
cables and so on.
But stilll as starting point - try some 2*4mm ones.
You won´t find a general answer
2,5mm wires and they all sounded diffferent.
I also had a so caled "hIgh-end" Nagaoka cable around that produced only
angry mids nothing else to me,
I endedd up using a 2*4mm OFC Silver cable.
There are for sure many interesting Threads about drilling technics with different
cables and so on.
But stilll as starting point - try some 2*4mm ones.
You won´t find a general answer
articles on speaker cables
Rod Elliot has a couple of articles on this subject at
http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm
Personally, I just use the heaviest light flex I can find,
...Keeps me happy... (I usually wire direct from the speaker too, no binding post)
Cheers,
Pete McK
Rod Elliot has a couple of articles on this subject at
http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm
Personally, I just use the heaviest light flex I can find,
...Keeps me happy... (I usually wire direct from the speaker too, no binding post)
Cheers,
Pete McK
well i'm back from spending😀 and got some of the "Supra Professional Grade" i listed. It's a new product and made in Sweden if that means anything. This isn't going to be hooked up to a Class A audophile amp, sorry to dissapoint some😉 , but just a old technics for a few months, then a proper cheapish sub amp.
Alex
Alex
lol, just reading through this thread again
so much for that statement😀 , thanks for the chat, and bouncing of ideas,
Alex
so much for that statement😀 , thanks for the chat, and bouncing of ideas,
Alex
Aborigines or plain aussie - then you are almost swedish
As you have guessed, those thinking are not too negative.
I also provided some links, for further selfeducating.
The Thread will also give a lot of opportunities
for having a good laugh!
😉 😀 Marketing Terms - in plain cruel (revealing) words
/halo
the native earthchild
In this thread I give some basic thoughts on Supra Cables.Alex_B said:
As you have guessed, those thinking are not too negative.
I also provided some links, for further selfeducating.
The Thread will also give a lot of opportunities
for having a good laugh!
😉 😀 Marketing Terms - in plain cruel (revealing) words
/halo
the native earthchild
lol, i should put that thread in my favourites, whenever you wan't a laugh go there!😀 😀 😀 
, especially Circlotron post, lol, and Duo's too hahahaahahaaaaaaa, oh dear now back on topic😱
good to see someone likes the cable i bought though, cheers,
Alex
, especially Circlotron post, lol, and Duo's too hahahaahahaaaaaaa, oh dear now back on topic😱 good to see someone likes the cable i bought though, cheers,
Alex
Okay, Brett you've convinced me . . .
I heard it all the time; "put the crossover outside the enclosure." But never really knew why. I knew it was bad for sound, but I just thought it was the fanatic audiophiles on in this forum that insist on this. So I said: it probably doesn't make that much of a difference if any and it looks MUCH better when it's in the speaker enclosure, so desided I will just put it inside the enclosure. But with your explaination of the components acting as microphones I've desided to put it out side the enclosure.
My question is: I have a 2.5 way speaker, but I can't seem to find tri-amp speaker terminals. Are there any out there in the market place? What would you do? I already have a hole in the enclosure for a single pos and neg terminal. I can run wires through the port I guess, but I do want it to be somewhat estetically appealing.
I heard it all the time; "put the crossover outside the enclosure." But never really knew why. I knew it was bad for sound, but I just thought it was the fanatic audiophiles on in this forum that insist on this. So I said: it probably doesn't make that much of a difference if any and it looks MUCH better when it's in the speaker enclosure, so desided I will just put it inside the enclosure. But with your explaination of the components acting as microphones I've desided to put it out side the enclosure.
My question is: I have a 2.5 way speaker, but I can't seem to find tri-amp speaker terminals. Are there any out there in the market place? What would you do? I already have a hole in the enclosure for a single pos and neg terminal. I can run wires through the port I guess, but I do want it to be somewhat estetically appealing.
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