Wasn't sure which forum to post this in and since I have probably posted more in this then any other...
I was just talking with a friend about some speaker cables I am building. I told him I was going to use silver plated spades since I found I really like the improvement using silver plated interconnects has improved the sound of my system.
I mentioned I was currently using locking banana plugs and wasn't that happy with them so that is why I planned to use spades instead.
So we talked and talked blah blah blah. Are banana better or spade? Then we started talking about bare wire and he said it's a pain in the *** to bind it down. I suggested tinning the wire. Then this is where we had a huge brain fart....
I said, well what about tinning the wire and the binding post and soldering it directly into where the banana plug normally goes. So I was wondering if anyone else has tried this? Other then having to unsolder if you move things it sorta sounds like a good idea.
Thought?
I was just talking with a friend about some speaker cables I am building. I told him I was going to use silver plated spades since I found I really like the improvement using silver plated interconnects has improved the sound of my system.
I mentioned I was currently using locking banana plugs and wasn't that happy with them so that is why I planned to use spades instead.
So we talked and talked blah blah blah. Are banana better or spade? Then we started talking about bare wire and he said it's a pain in the *** to bind it down. I suggested tinning the wire. Then this is where we had a huge brain fart....
I said, well what about tinning the wire and the binding post and soldering it directly into where the banana plug normally goes. So I was wondering if anyone else has tried this? Other then having to unsolder if you move things it sorta sounds like a good idea.
Thought?
What sreten said. Better yet, take the internal wire outside the box and just use the binding post to clamp the 2 wires together.
Tinning is not a good idea, the solder migrates under pressure. Plus, solid cable better than stranded (IME), no point in tinning it at all.
I'm gonna guess you are using firehose size wire?
dave
Tinning is not a good idea, the solder migrates under pressure. Plus, solid cable better than stranded (IME), no point in tinning it at all.
I'm gonna guess you are using firehose size wire?
dave
Hi,
YMMV, but tinning stranded massively reduces long term corrosion.
I prefer it over annually cutting ends off to get to clean copper.
If you keep the binding posts tight migration is not an issue IMO.
Tinning solid core is fairly pointless. In the end you want a gas
tight seal as the post is tightened, for tinned stranded the post
should cut through to bare clean copper, same as a solid core.
IMO if bring (stranded) leads out of the box, you might as well
twist both leads together and solder them, and just use the post
to hold them in place, again YMMV as to your ambitions.
rgds, sreten.
My basic rule is never clamp solder. For example, if you tin solid or stranded wire, then stick it in a standard dual banana plug and tighten the screw, it will loosen over time. It's a crappy method. What I do is take a piece of heavy solid bare copper wire (stripped out of some house wire) and solder my cable to it. The bare copper wire then gets inserted into the banana and the screw tightened on the copper. These rarely loosen and give reliable connections. I build my lab test cables the same way.
Tinned wire isn't the best for 5-way binding posts either- use the heavy bare wire method instead, or proper soldered or crimped lugs. IMO, banana plugs/jacks were never intended for long term connections. They were designed for lab equipment where connections need to be changed quickly and often. They were invented by General Radio Corp and I have a few really old ones in my collection. I've built speakers with 1/4" brass screws going through the back panel. The internal wires get soldered in the slots on the heads, the external wires get big lugs and are fastened with big brass wing-nuts, or just regular nuts using pliers.
Tinned wire isn't the best for 5-way binding posts either- use the heavy bare wire method instead, or proper soldered or crimped lugs. IMO, banana plugs/jacks were never intended for long term connections. They were designed for lab equipment where connections need to be changed quickly and often. They were invented by General Radio Corp and I have a few really old ones in my collection. I've built speakers with 1/4" brass screws going through the back panel. The internal wires get soldered in the slots on the heads, the external wires get big lugs and are fastened with big brass wing-nuts, or just regular nuts using pliers.
If your planning on using a Banana plug as a solder cup, It could work. But then why even use one at all, You cant disconnect it from the speaker box once its soldered in.
May as well connect the speaker direct. Go from speaker, direct to amp and seal the wire in the box so it doesn't leak.
May as well connect the speaker direct. Go from speaker, direct to amp and seal the wire in the box so it doesn't leak.
since the OP indicated he will be / or has already built speaker cables and is specifically looking for suggestions on "easily" removable connectors - so as much as directly hardwiring things could definitely sound better, the convenience / practicality factor is pretty low
A different method I have also used, Is to strip a longer section of wire, Just over twice of the length you want it to be.
Fold it over its self so a small amount sits over the wire insulation, then grab some heat shrink and shrink it over the insulation and wire ends. Yes it may be fair large, but the ends will be nice and restrained.
Fold it over its self so a small amount sits over the wire insulation, then grab some heat shrink and shrink it over the insulation and wire ends. Yes it may be fair large, but the ends will be nice and restrained.
SpeakOn. Those of you that have seen my posts about these before know why I like them...
- they can't be shorted out
- a single push and twist can make up to 8 connections
- each connection will stand 30A at 250V.
- contact resistance is tiny.
Having used them for a while, I'd never go back to bare wire or banana plugs.
Chris
- they can't be shorted out
- a single push and twist can make up to 8 connections
- each connection will stand 30A at 250V.
- contact resistance is tiny.
Having used them for a while, I'd never go back to bare wire or banana plugs.
Chris
Technically the fewer connections you have & the better the contact they make the better. They've caused more problems than wire ever has. Short term, no connector at all & bare wire will minimise losses until corrosion sets in (less of an issue with silver wire).
Alternatively, here's a reality check: it's wire. There is more to life.
Alternatively, here's a reality check: it's wire. There is more to life.
im sure ive used clamping banana plugs that have a screw that tightens onto the wire using a knurled knob. IIRC they were suitable for up to 4mm wire. Tinning with silver solder, they shouldnt loosen. Industry standard to prevent oxidisation increasing resistance of the junction, im my industry at least. Works as well.
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he does have a point. i've seen people pairing speakers with wire that costs more than the amp and sometimes the drivers.
wouldn't ever drop serious wack on cable unless i had top notch drivers, amp designed and built purposely for those drivers and box designed exactly for that driver.
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