Hopefully I am in the right place. I'm on a tight budget so I thought it might be worth trying to fix it myself if I could get the right guidance.
I have the Sony TA-F220 amp and am happy with the sound but occasionally it has issues with one or other channel cutting out. If I crank volume sometimes the channel comes back on so I am hoping it’s easy to fix but I doubt it’s worth taking it to a shop. Sometimes a channel might be distorted (similar to plugging into the phono socket) most times it just cuts out and maybe back in.
When they are both working, the sound is sweet so I think overall it's in good nic and just one part is faulty?
I've also knocked off 2 knobs in a move (badly packed) but I assume they are easier to fix and worth it if I can fix the amp.
I have the Sony TA-F220 amp and am happy with the sound but occasionally it has issues with one or other channel cutting out. If I crank volume sometimes the channel comes back on so I am hoping it’s easy to fix but I doubt it’s worth taking it to a shop. Sometimes a channel might be distorted (similar to plugging into the phono socket) most times it just cuts out and maybe back in.
When they are both working, the sound is sweet so I think overall it's in good nic and just one part is faulty?
I've also knocked off 2 knobs in a move (badly packed) but I assume they are easier to fix and worth it if I can fix the amp.
Assuming you still have the knobs, a bit of epoxy (or maybe even superglue) ought to fix those.
These early-'90s Sonys are pretty notorious for protection relay contact issues, which would cause the kind of problems you describe. Apparently there's only one, RY701. You are usually best off replacing it altogether, as these tend to be pretty generic off-the-shelf parts and you'd typically have to unsolder the old one to clean it anyway (and doing so properly is a bit of a science in itself). The service docs only give a part number though, so you'd have to read off the coil voltage and find out the coil resistance (ask a multimeter) and the current rating (by relay series - usually 5-10 A).
Some common practical obstacles, aside from accessing the thing in the first place: You may be able to find a relay that basically fits but is a DPDT rather than a DPST - in this case bending or cutting off the two extra legs should help. Sometimes the leg cross-section isn't a 100% match for the PCB holes either - something that some people tackle via a file while others slightly enlarge the holes with a small drill.
This unit also employs a mechanical speaker switch, which is another potential trouble spot. It may require cleaning if you find that e.g. pairs A and B are not affected equally.
These early-'90s Sonys are pretty notorious for protection relay contact issues, which would cause the kind of problems you describe. Apparently there's only one, RY701. You are usually best off replacing it altogether, as these tend to be pretty generic off-the-shelf parts and you'd typically have to unsolder the old one to clean it anyway (and doing so properly is a bit of a science in itself). The service docs only give a part number though, so you'd have to read off the coil voltage and find out the coil resistance (ask a multimeter) and the current rating (by relay series - usually 5-10 A).
Some common practical obstacles, aside from accessing the thing in the first place: You may be able to find a relay that basically fits but is a DPDT rather than a DPST - in this case bending or cutting off the two extra legs should help. Sometimes the leg cross-section isn't a 100% match for the PCB holes either - something that some people tackle via a file while others slightly enlarge the holes with a small drill.
This unit also employs a mechanical speaker switch, which is another potential trouble spot. It may require cleaning if you find that e.g. pairs A and B are not affected equally.
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.