Can someone recommend solder sutiable for general purpose work - home / hobby.
How can it be possible for there to be so much diversity in solder type when in the begining there probably was only one type - lead. Why do idiots diversify basics?
I tried using chinese stuff and it makes the task of soldering headphone wires together really unbearable in terms of trviality.
How can it be possible for there to be so much diversity in solder type when in the begining there probably was only one type - lead. Why do idiots diversify basics?
I tried using chinese stuff and it makes the task of soldering headphone wires together really unbearable in terms of trviality.
386844 Multicore | Soldering, Desoldering, Rework Products | DigiKey
It's tin/lead eutectic (63-37), it's made by a reputable manufacturer, it's sold by a reputable distributor, and its incredibly thin (0.015" == 0.4mm diameter) so you can use it for both thru-hole and surface mount soldering.
It's tin/lead eutectic (63-37), it's made by a reputable manufacturer, it's sold by a reputable distributor, and its incredibly thin (0.015" == 0.4mm diameter) so you can use it for both thru-hole and surface mount soldering.
thank you for the advice -- i'll see how it goes. Better to spend that bit extra for the real deal.
I agree.
In the past I could easily buy rather thin solder "made in Germany". Now I can still get a German quality (Rothenberger) but only in 1.00mm which is too thick for most electronic work. I believe am important feature is the rosin.
I then tried solder from out east because I could get the 0.4-0.6 dimensions. Only the brands with about the price as here really gave the same quality solderings. I even got some environmental friendly solder that actually seems to work but leaves a mat surface and not the good impression as good old lead solder.
The world is degrading.
In the past I could easily buy rather thin solder "made in Germany". Now I can still get a German quality (Rothenberger) but only in 1.00mm which is too thick for most electronic work. I believe am important feature is the rosin.
I then tried solder from out east because I could get the 0.4-0.6 dimensions. Only the brands with about the price as here really gave the same quality solderings. I even got some environmental friendly solder that actually seems to work but leaves a mat surface and not the good impression as good old lead solder.
The world is degrading.
The reason for the diversity is the world of electronics has been moving to a complete leadfree soldering environment.
Now there is more types of solder you can poke a soldering iron at, all differing slightly by composition due to patents and improvements. Now everyone is confused.
I can vouch for using multicore solder, I have used this at work for years.
For soldering SMD I use a multicore LMP with 2% silver as this provides better wetting.
As suggested by Mark that roll of 63/37 multicore solder will last you for years.
Now there is more types of solder you can poke a soldering iron at, all differing slightly by composition due to patents and improvements. Now everyone is confused.
I can vouch for using multicore solder, I have used this at work for years.
For soldering SMD I use a multicore LMP with 2% silver as this provides better wetting.
As suggested by Mark that roll of 63/37 multicore solder will last you for years.
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It's expensive but the cardas quad-eutectic solder is superb. It has greater physical strength than tin/lead eutectic, which is great when there's any chance of significant vibration or any physical strain on a joint (think subwoofer lead wires for ex).
Their lead-free variant is also very good. The cost is STEEP but solder lasts a long time and goes a long way, for most hobbyists, 1 roll will last years if not lifetime. I've not noticed any flux degradation on my 10 year old rolls of either type.
Their lead-free variant is also very good. The cost is STEEP but solder lasts a long time and goes a long way, for most hobbyists, 1 roll will last years if not lifetime. I've not noticed any flux degradation on my 10 year old rolls of either type.
I use AIM solder Glowcore wire for years without any problems i use 0.8mm in 0.5kg spool little bit costly but for me worth every penny.
Anders
Anders
Depending on what you are soldering, sometimes it's better to give in and use paste. Even lousy solders will behave.
* Note: This opinion will self destruct in 30 seconds and comes from a person who solders larger items than often found here at diyAudio.
YMMV.
* Note: This opinion will self destruct in 30 seconds and comes from a person who solders larger items than often found here at diyAudio.
YMMV.
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Ordinary tin/lead solder with flux built in. - Kessler.
It's been around for a century and was the best....... still is.
All that other crap is............. crap.
It's been around for a century and was the best....... still is.
All that other crap is............. crap.
Tried several types, regular 60/40, lead free stuff.
The felder SN62Pb36AG2 gives sofar the best result: low melting temperature, nice shiny solder joint, flows very good during soldering.
I buy this at Reichelt.
https://www.felder.de/files/felder/pdf/EN_14-Leaded_Solid_Wire.pdf
The felder SN62Pb36AG2 gives sofar the best result: low melting temperature, nice shiny solder joint, flows very good during soldering.
I buy this at Reichelt.
https://www.felder.de/files/felder/pdf/EN_14-Leaded_Solid_Wire.pdf
I have loads (20 or 30 partly used rolls and some whole 500g rolls) of 6337SnPb made by Kester, it doesn't really get any better than this stuff. Where in Scotland are you, if you're anywhere near Kilmarnock you can drop in and have some.
I use multi core silver solder from McMaster, made by Ersin as I recall.
Really nice stuff, but was MUCH cheaper when I bought my roll.
McMaster-Carr
Really nice stuff, but was MUCH cheaper when I bought my roll.
McMaster-Carr
Can I drop in too?
Only joking - I have several reels of original recipe solder which I inherited from my late Uncle, some of which could date back to WW2 when he installed field telephones behind enemy lines in Burma.
I may just be story telling, but whatever its vintage, his solder still works a treat! 😎
Crikey, mine is a bit newer than that (although still maybe 10-15 years old!) If you want some it's no problem, I'll never use it all.
I second that, it works great. My experience with audiophile silver content solder is that it doesnt flow as well, cant remember the brands I tried but I no longer use them.
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Kester 63/37 RMA , I like it a little bit better than the Multicore previously mentioned if you don't require a no-clean flux.
Your opinion is absolutely accurate. It is never the solder alloy that is the problem, it is the flux.
Jn
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