Hi!
I've (99% sure) decided to go with building a pair of slightly modified Seas Trym speakers (the 22cm excel woofer and the 002 tweeter, crossed over at 1.6k).
Before shelling out for the drivers, i've decided to build the cabinets (the most fun part anyhow [well, maybe 2nd most, i really liked putting the crossovers togeather last time]) - I've sawed up the MDF and am looking at veneers.
I tried out some different color combos in photoshop (see pic - #1 is the picture on the seas web site), and I think that i'll go with #8. The back is rosewood, which I ordered in an auction, but I'm not sure what wood would be best to use for the front, to get that look - any ideas?
A question also, about the seas speakers, and this one in particular: how will they likely compare to commercial designs? I havn't listed much to many high end speakers - the set i've heard the most is the B&W CDM1-SE (their second-from-top range, i believe) - those speakers cost more than twice as much, and have smaller (6 inch or so) woofers. Any ideas how the seas speakers would compare?
Also, one last Q (so excited, so many questions!): Looking at the seas sensitivity plots (for the different kits), i see that the Trym is slightly less even than the others - does this mean that the sound quality will be inferior, and if so, how signifigantly? I assume there is more to the sound than the response plot - right?
Thanks a lot!
I've (99% sure) decided to go with building a pair of slightly modified Seas Trym speakers (the 22cm excel woofer and the 002 tweeter, crossed over at 1.6k).
Before shelling out for the drivers, i've decided to build the cabinets (the most fun part anyhow [well, maybe 2nd most, i really liked putting the crossovers togeather last time]) - I've sawed up the MDF and am looking at veneers.
I tried out some different color combos in photoshop (see pic - #1 is the picture on the seas web site), and I think that i'll go with #8. The back is rosewood, which I ordered in an auction, but I'm not sure what wood would be best to use for the front, to get that look - any ideas?
A question also, about the seas speakers, and this one in particular: how will they likely compare to commercial designs? I havn't listed much to many high end speakers - the set i've heard the most is the B&W CDM1-SE (their second-from-top range, i believe) - those speakers cost more than twice as much, and have smaller (6 inch or so) woofers. Any ideas how the seas speakers would compare?
Also, one last Q (so excited, so many questions!): Looking at the seas sensitivity plots (for the different kits), i see that the Trym is slightly less even than the others - does this mean that the sound quality will be inferior, and if so, how signifigantly? I assume there is more to the sound than the response plot - right?
Thanks a lot!
Attachments
Well, The Seas Excel range is considered one of the finest available, but the woofers are tricky to use, so using an established design as you are is a good idea. They should seriously good!
I liked similar or the same veneer on the front and sides.
I liked similar or the same veneer on the front and sides.
Monroe said:
Nope, but is it important?
You just have to use more power to get the same SPL levels. In normal conditions 50W-100W will be sufficient. And if your room isn't a ballroom, you can get away with halve of that. It depends on your preferred listeninglevel and the size of your listening room.
Re: Re: Seas Trym - Veneer Choices and More
I don't mind having a lower sensitivity, and I certainly wont be playing it at really high levels.
But - i was wondering more about the shape and (relative lack of) flatness of the graph, more than its average height.
Does it matter if the graph is less flat? My goal is sound quality at low and mid volumes (~20-50 watts input), not quantity or volume of sound.
-Dave
LaMa said:
I don't mind having a lower sensitivity, and I certainly wont be playing it at really high levels.
But - i was wondering more about the shape and (relative lack of) flatness of the graph, more than its average height.
Does it matter if the graph is less flat? My goal is sound quality at low and mid volumes (~20-50 watts input), not quantity or volume of sound.
-Dave
Stylish speaker...
The cherry front on yours turned out close to what i was looking for - perhaps thats what i need ...
The cherry front on yours turned out close to what i was looking for - perhaps thats what i need ...
Different bracing/shape inside, with some funny corners so that the tweeter wont be equidistant from the top walls. Also, some little tiny stuff, just to match the tools that I have (different roundover radius, etc.).
Nothing exciting :0 (i'm just a beginner, this is my second pair).
Any other modification suggestions / ideas are very welcome though!
And to an earlier post, the seas Trym info is at:
http://www.seas.no/trym.htm
-dave
Nothing exciting :0 (i'm just a beginner, this is my second pair).
Any other modification suggestions / ideas are very welcome though!
And to an earlier post, the seas Trym info is at:
http://www.seas.no/trym.htm
-dave
Seas Excel drivers are beautiful to look at and deserve to have equally beautiful cabinets.
I think some of the best examples I have seen are the Ellis 1801's which use the Seas Excel W18 and Hiquphon OW1. The real difference, in my opinion, is the solid wood baffle.
here are some examples:
http://www.thomaswoodcraft.com/Ellis/1801.asp
Look at the Burl Walnut! The Honduran Mahogany is mine.
Here are more from Dave Ellis's site
* http://www.ellisaudio.com/
Jim Salk's beautiful speakers, including 1801s, without wood baffle:
http://www.salksound.com/speakers.html
Jim also has a signature series with wood baffles. Take a look at his Bubinga Veracity HT1... gorgeous!
http://www.salksound.com/gallery-se.html
Al
I think some of the best examples I have seen are the Ellis 1801's which use the Seas Excel W18 and Hiquphon OW1. The real difference, in my opinion, is the solid wood baffle.
here are some examples:
http://www.thomaswoodcraft.com/Ellis/1801.asp
Look at the Burl Walnut! The Honduran Mahogany is mine.
Here are more from Dave Ellis's site
* http://www.ellisaudio.com/
Jim Salk's beautiful speakers, including 1801s, without wood baffle:
http://www.salksound.com/speakers.html
Jim also has a signature series with wood baffles. Take a look at his Bubinga Veracity HT1... gorgeous!
http://www.salksound.com/gallery-se.html
Al
Heres a graph of the Seas Trym:
http://www.seas.no/kit/Trym måling.pdf
did you attempt to fix the bumps in the 200Hz-1Khz region?
Btw how do they sound?
http://www.seas.no/kit/Trym måling.pdf
did you attempt to fix the bumps in the 200Hz-1Khz region?
Btw how do they sound?
Those look AMAZING, honestly some of THE finest DIY speakers ive seen to date.
I bet they sound amazing. Is that cabinet sealed or vented? and what volume are they, interesting to see how much you changed the original design.
michael
The volume, vent, woofer ...are the same. Only the shape is different. The vent is on the rear wall. The used tweeter is T25-001(not 002). It is much cheaper then the millinium(in quality there are no big differences- In my opinion).
I think the volume of the box is little big for my room. I have some problems with low freq.
FM
The volume, vent, woofer ...are the same. Only the shape is different. The vent is on the rear wall. The used tweeter is T25-001(not 002). It is much cheaper then the millinium(in quality there are no big differences- In my opinion).
I think the volume of the box is little big for my room. I have some problems with low freq.
FM
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