Hi,
I have a pair of SEAS FA22RCZ that I would like to modify into a midwoofer.
I know this is a strange thing to do, so maybe I start from the beginning. I have a pair of SEAS22FRZ which I bought a long time ago. I like the sound but it is limited in its functionality as a full range. I missed the sizzle of a real tweeter and the bookshelf box i have for it is not big enough.
I am also a fan of Audionote AN-E speakers. They are just so pleasant to listen to over the long run, and in many hifi shows they are a quite a crowd puller. Even though there were other more dynamic speakers, louder punchier higher end stuff, this was the sound that I liked. So i was looking to make a clone inspired by it but i realised the driver is rather unique and it is not something you can buy easily.
So what I was looking for is a high efficiency 8" driver with low cone mass and powerful motor with a low Fs and a decent xmax. This is where it becomes interesting. Most 8" high efficiency drivers are pro drivers with a 95db efficiency with a high Fs about 70Hz. Most 8"drivers have a Mms of 20+ gm and relatively low efficiency. Most full range driver have low Mms, varied Fs but generally very low x-max. In the end I realise the driver to fit my needs is the one I already have which is the SEAS FA22RCZ with a Fs of 30+Hz, a xmax of 3mm and a Mms of 12gm.
I also intend to cross a bit higher at 4-5kHz, away from the sensitive band.
I am thinking of playing with it, since I intend of making use of it as a midbass, I want to see what modification to the cone that I could do to improve its performance further. I am thinking the "wetlook" to dampen the cone. But the real reason could be I kinda like the glossy look.
Just wanted to see if anybody has any experience with the wetlook? or coating the FA22RCZ?
Oon
I have a pair of SEAS FA22RCZ that I would like to modify into a midwoofer.
I know this is a strange thing to do, so maybe I start from the beginning. I have a pair of SEAS22FRZ which I bought a long time ago. I like the sound but it is limited in its functionality as a full range. I missed the sizzle of a real tweeter and the bookshelf box i have for it is not big enough.
I am also a fan of Audionote AN-E speakers. They are just so pleasant to listen to over the long run, and in many hifi shows they are a quite a crowd puller. Even though there were other more dynamic speakers, louder punchier higher end stuff, this was the sound that I liked. So i was looking to make a clone inspired by it but i realised the driver is rather unique and it is not something you can buy easily.
So what I was looking for is a high efficiency 8" driver with low cone mass and powerful motor with a low Fs and a decent xmax. This is where it becomes interesting. Most 8" high efficiency drivers are pro drivers with a 95db efficiency with a high Fs about 70Hz. Most 8"drivers have a Mms of 20+ gm and relatively low efficiency. Most full range driver have low Mms, varied Fs but generally very low x-max. In the end I realise the driver to fit my needs is the one I already have which is the SEAS FA22RCZ with a Fs of 30+Hz, a xmax of 3mm and a Mms of 12gm.
I also intend to cross a bit higher at 4-5kHz, away from the sensitive band.
I am thinking of playing with it, since I intend of making use of it as a midbass, I want to see what modification to the cone that I could do to improve its performance further. I am thinking the "wetlook" to dampen the cone. But the real reason could be I kinda like the glossy look.
Just wanted to see if anybody has any experience with the wetlook? or coating the FA22RCZ?
Oon
Yup, I know of Planet10 coating... I guess I am tempted to have black shiny cones... but I think the original colour of the cones are quite interesting and unique as well...
Oon
Oon
The QLN looks interesting but I want to cross a lot lower, circa 5kHz. So it will be a tweeter rather than a super tweeter....
Oon
If you going to use it as midbass, I guess you should start with wizzer removal. Wizzer and dustcap looks like single assembly glued to vc former. Remove them carefully and glue little bigger dustcap to the cone, not vc former.
Then apply some coating, dammar for eg.
For proper bass, follow Seas guideline for box type/size.
FA22RCZ is capable of very nice bass.
Then apply some coating, dammar for eg.
For proper bass, follow Seas guideline for box type/size.
FA22RCZ is capable of very nice bass.
Step 1 is usually to lose the whizzer cone (i am doing that on a pair of FE166 i mucked up). The dustcap will likely go as well. That is an opportunity to add a phase plug or a larger dome dustcap.
As a midwoofer you will want to treat, perhaps more than if used as a FR? Each coat should roll off the top a bit more and make it smoother.
dave
As a midwoofer you will want to treat, perhaps more than if used as a FR? Each coat should roll off the top a bit more and make it smoother.
dave
Hi Dave,
About the extra larger dome dustcap, Why is it needed if you already cut off the whizzed?
When you mentioned, did you mean modge podge or the wet look? I think I will probably go down the modge podge route. I guess there is coolness in the purplish blue colour. Quite distinctive. If it was black, would have gone on the wet look.
There was somebody who had good success painting the edge of the suspension and cone interface. Might give that a go...
Oon
8" (I think) picked up about 5db 2khz-6khz then rolled off vs flatish b4 whizzer removal.
from Dbmandrake post 11
whizzer and intelligibility ?
fa22rcz already has trouble in the presence region...………...
from Dbmandrake post 11
whizzer and intelligibility ?
fa22rcz already has trouble in the presence region...………...
Hi Norman,
Thanks for the thread, very informative, especially that part about phase. It should be okay with me. I intend to use an inductor to start rolling off at about 500 Hz or so. This will flatten the peak. At the point where the peak starts to flatten or drop, should be about 3kHz or so, it will be serving as my crossover region. I will then start crossing in the tweeter at about 5kHz. This will keep the crossover away from the sensitive region. Seems like a drastic way of doing things but I was hunting around for a 8" 12gm, 30+ Hz Fs with decent xmax and only this and the tangband 8" fit the criteria. Since this is the only I have so....
Oon
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