Starting a speaker box project with my 12 year old son.
Looking for a 2.1 amp board in the 18w - 18w +25w range that is efficient on 11-13v.
I am finding a ton of TDA 2030 boards but all are 12-0-12v.
has anyone found a board they are happy with.
I have search both google and this board,,
It is to the point I enlarge the icture of a board from a hong kong supplier to see if it has 3 pad for the power,,
any help is appreciated,
Slack
Looking for a 2.1 amp board in the 18w - 18w +25w range that is efficient on 11-13v.
I am finding a ton of TDA 2030 boards but all are 12-0-12v.
has anyone found a board they are happy with.
I have search both google and this board,,
It is to the point I enlarge the icture of a board from a hong kong supplier to see if it has 3 pad for the power,,
any help is appreciated,
Slack
These are quite good for their price TPA3116D2 2.1 12v 50Wx2+100W HIFI digital subwoofer amplifier Verst board | eBay
(Left and right channel have full range output, is that okay for you, or do you need a crossover?)
(Left and right channel have full range output, is that okay for you, or do you need a crossover?)
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Thanks for the quick response guys, means a lot.
I found no results for a 2.1 amp based on TK2050, they were all 2 ch.
I found a lot of 2.1 amp boards based on the TPA3116,
Power supply listed for these boards ranges from 12-25, 15-18, 12-18, etc.
I will be running off a SLA battery that I will be running down to 11.2v.
Does anyone have experience running these boards from 11v ?
Thanks,
Slack
I found no results for a 2.1 amp based on TK2050, they were all 2 ch.
I found a lot of 2.1 amp boards based on the TPA3116,
Power supply listed for these boards ranges from 12-25, 15-18, 12-18, etc.
I will be running off a SLA battery that I will be running down to 11.2v.
Does anyone have experience running these boards from 11v ?
Thanks,
Slack
You can remove the bridge rectifier on there to let it work on DC. Perfect 2.1 amp for the money but they aren't very efficient (class AB).
11V shouldn't be a problem for TPA3116D2 I guess (depending a bit on board-layout)
Actually I think most of them are still working quite well with even much lower voltages like 9V
Min. working voltage for that chip are 4.5V if I remember correctly
When you're using your box indoor you could use an old laptop power brick.
If there's a problem or you need higher output power I would simply use a ~150W step up booster (~8€) - that would make 24V out of your 12V battery and would cost ~10-20% effeciency/runtime but it's still more efficient than a Class AB like TDA2030. Some step-up+amp combinations (amps with small or no input caps and step ups with small output caps) are producing buzzing noise, in that case you would need to add an additional large capacitor (like Nichion 35V 6800µF, or better several 470µF ones, a few cents each) in parallel for puffering that noise. But I don't think it would be necessary.
As alternate there are dirt cheap "Lepai 838" (~10€-15$) Class D 2.1 Mini-Amps which are working well from 9V to 18V, though they don't sound as good (the subwoofer output has high distortion, stereo output is okay but not as good as TDA3116 or others) as the TDA3116 chip based boards like the one I linked above.
Actually I think most of them are still working quite well with even much lower voltages like 9V
Min. working voltage for that chip are 4.5V if I remember correctly
When you're using your box indoor you could use an old laptop power brick.
If there's a problem or you need higher output power I would simply use a ~150W step up booster (~8€) - that would make 24V out of your 12V battery and would cost ~10-20% effeciency/runtime but it's still more efficient than a Class AB like TDA2030. Some step-up+amp combinations (amps with small or no input caps and step ups with small output caps) are producing buzzing noise, in that case you would need to add an additional large capacitor (like Nichion 35V 6800µF, or better several 470µF ones, a few cents each) in parallel for puffering that noise. But I don't think it would be necessary.
As alternate there are dirt cheap "Lepai 838" (~10€-15$) Class D 2.1 Mini-Amps which are working well from 9V to 18V, though they don't sound as good (the subwoofer output has high distortion, stereo output is okay but not as good as TDA3116 or others) as the TDA3116 chip based boards like the one I linked above.
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Forenseil,
Thank you so much for your response, very informative. I did order a 2.1 3116D2 board. I will try it off of a 12v SLA run down to 11v and see how it acts.
I plan on having the power supply, SLA battery, and charger all mounted internally with a relay or 2 switching. when the power cord is plugged in the relay would direct power from the power supply to the amp, disconnecting the battery and powering the SLA charger. I have not read any firm evidence that would lead me to believe a charger would power the amp and charge the battery safely.
Slack
Thank you so much for your response, very informative. I did order a 2.1 3116D2 board. I will try it off of a 12v SLA run down to 11v and see how it acts.
I plan on having the power supply, SLA battery, and charger all mounted internally with a relay or 2 switching. when the power cord is plugged in the relay would direct power from the power supply to the amp, disconnecting the battery and powering the SLA charger. I have not read any firm evidence that would lead me to believe a charger would power the amp and charge the battery safely.
Slack
Depends a lot on the quality of the charger (bad quality might cause buzzing sound etc.) and how many amperes it can deliver.
I guess you will use a small battery like 7Ah, right?
Lead/Acid batteries should not be charged with more than 1/10 of their capacity.
For example a 50Ah should not be charged with more than 5A and a 7Ah battery not with more than 700mA etc. - otherwise they start heating which does shorten their lifetime.
Though 700mA@12V are a little low to listen to music, at least at slightly elevated loudness - most likely it would charge very slow if at all while playing music
I would simply make a second power supply circuit internally, add a few switches and an old laptop power brick or similar power supply inside (something between 12V-24V DC and enough A output) - that should deliver enough to listen to music even at high loudness while you're charging your battery with a charger in parallel.
Another alternative would be to use an additional step-down module with build in voltage and current regulation (like Mini 5A Adjustable CC/CV Display Step Down Charge Module LED Panel Voltmeter -- BuyinCoins.com - simply set with a screwdriver to 14.1V and 1/10 A of your batteries Ah)- you wouldn't need a charger, only an external notebook power brick for both charging your battery and listening to music at the same time
I guess you will use a small battery like 7Ah, right?
Lead/Acid batteries should not be charged with more than 1/10 of their capacity.
For example a 50Ah should not be charged with more than 5A and a 7Ah battery not with more than 700mA etc. - otherwise they start heating which does shorten their lifetime.
Though 700mA@12V are a little low to listen to music, at least at slightly elevated loudness - most likely it would charge very slow if at all while playing music
I would simply make a second power supply circuit internally, add a few switches and an old laptop power brick or similar power supply inside (something between 12V-24V DC and enough A output) - that should deliver enough to listen to music even at high loudness while you're charging your battery with a charger in parallel.
Another alternative would be to use an additional step-down module with build in voltage and current regulation (like Mini 5A Adjustable CC/CV Display Step Down Charge Module LED Panel Voltmeter -- BuyinCoins.com - simply set with a screwdriver to 14.1V and 1/10 A of your batteries Ah)- you wouldn't need a charger, only an external notebook power brick for both charging your battery and listening to music at the same time
I am thinking about using something like this 12v too 24v DC-DC convertor with a 7.2a 12v SLA battery to power the TPA 3116 2.1 amp.
12V to 24V, Step-up, 5A, 120W : Current Logic, Expert of DC-DC Converter
Any thoughts?
Thanks slack
12V to 24V, Step-up, 5A, 120W : Current Logic, Expert of DC-DC Converter
Any thoughts?
Thanks slack
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Less than $3/pc. This might be a better converter than the one you found on Aliexpress.
more money, but quick US shipping...10.90 + 5.95 shipping
Yuan-Jing 100W 10~32 VDC In to 12~35 VDC Out Adjustable Boost Converter Board
I use one to power laptop from 12 volt battery on my sailboat...
Yuan-Jing 100W 10~32 VDC In to 12~35 VDC Out Adjustable Boost Converter Board
I use one to power laptop from 12 volt battery on my sailboat...
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